I don’t see hard specs on sizing on the following pages:
The key difference noted seems to be the surface treatment boasting 50% more durability on the e-bike version. From what I see, I don’t expect the chain is the wrong size or incompatible for any real reason.
How worn was your old chain? If it was super worn, you may have a matching worn cassette that is now not working well with a new chain, because of the differences in wear. That can be a consequence of waiting too long to swap a chain, but not sure if it is a concern here.
Stepping back to your comments:
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Did you cut the chain to the appropriate length for the bike and gearing? If so, what method did you use to select the final chain length? There are several methods and some may give different end results.
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For clarity, limit screws have no real affect on any gears other than the absolute high or low cog on the cassette. Those should be set initially to prevent over-shifting and allow full engagement of the chain on the related cog. After that, the should not be touched or considered for any other shifting issue.
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When shifting indexing is in doubt, I always recommend “starting over” to ensure proper setup. This is especially true if you have messed with limit screws that could well be leading to odd results, particularly when pulling the first shift off the small cog.
- So, I suggest you redo the limit screw setup, and then start over with full cable release and re-tensioning. Make certain that first pull from the small to next largest cog is “perfect” to the click on the cable pull. Then proceed up the cassette to the larger cogs and do the return back to the small.
- If there is any inconsistency (good at the bottom, bad at the top or middle), that is a potential sign of some RD or hanger alignment issue (even if you don’t think you have bumped them). If you can’t get it to shift consistently across the cassette, I have found the alignment is most often at fault.