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I’m using Stans Race still. Its not the fastest of inserting but seems to plug holes well, so that there is little or no air loss over night. I’m currently decanting it into one of their 60ml (half full for my roadie tyres, full for the gravel bike tyres) and squeezing that into the stem (valve core removed). If I’m too fast the nozzle might block up and I need to stop and clear it. But I’d rather spend more time in the setup to have more reliable results down the line 
This page of the thread indicates that there issues with specific rim tapes, especially ones with lettering. Stan’s tape (which I already have on) seems to be fine.
Which is good because I’ve already bought Silca to try out in the Spring. I had been running Stan’s Tubeless (regular) on my tires, and it just wasn’t working for me. It sealed some holes, but sprayed out of others. I had multiple issues where it seemed to have sealed, but I got it back up to pressure and out on the road and the same hole opened again. And again. My pressure isn’t even all that high, either, since I run 32mm. Maybe Stan’s race would be better–maybe I’ll try that out if Silca has other problems, but it sounds like that’s has a similar difficulty level in putting in since neither can be injected.
eta - I read a bit more of that. It looks like there have in the past been issued with the carbon fibers clumping, but more recent batches (at least as of the time of that thread) have fixed it.
“Holding air” is very different than sealing punctures. Once you have coated the inside of a tire with sealant and seated it, it will remain like that even after the sealant dries up.
But if you have not added any sealant since Sept 2022, it has completely dried up by now and if you puncture, it won’t seal because there is no liquid to bring the solid bits into the hole.
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Muc Off for me was a complete failure. The stuff will not seal any puncture of any size and the formula is very difficult to remove once dried. Orange Seal has been very good, still looking for something that has a longer service life but otherwise Orange Seal is my go to.
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How long did you find the Magic Milk Hi Fibre takes to dry out?
Stan’s Race is very clear in stating you shouldn’t inject it through the valve core. You’re probably filtering out some of the larger/longer particulates by doing this. I wouldn’t recommend (just use regular Stan’s if you’re going this route) but you do you.
Related, I find Stan’s Race really plugs up Presta valves after a few months. I got a 20-pack of Presta cores for a few bucks, and easy enough to swap em out. But I’m curious if anyone is running Santa Cruz Fillmore valves, and if so whether they’re a long-term solution to this? Or do they ALSO get plugged up and then you’ve ruined your $$ valve?
Not sure, but longer. You can also add water to ‘renew’ it, but it’s so cheap I just throw more in.
Its been working for me topping up that way for several years now and their race bottle fits perfectly. For virgin install I don’t use the stem but rather the tyre itself. The official Stan video shows it being topped up like I do 
2 oz Stan’s Refill #shorts (youtube.com)
Ive had to clear the stem once in that time my gravel bike with my more expensive mucoff valve (Ive used a 2mm hex key to push through gently). I forget which brand my wiggle/scribe/hunt wheels have came with (probably cheap generic ones) but they’ve been fine.
I’m very surprised to see so much support for orange seal, I had not so great luck with that stuff (didnt seal, or last).
I use stans race most the time. I change tires a ton since i’m a tire nerd, so I dont need the longevity of the regular stuff, and the race stuff gives me a tonnnnn more confidence as I’ve I had such good luck with it.
I have been a bit disappointed in how much quicker it disappears with a tire insert though, which I believe is true for all sealants.
My experience is purely for XC, Enduro, Gravel and CX.
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Thirded.
Nah the complaints revolve mostly around how the product dries in a very short period of time (for some, less than a month in hotter/drier climates), and collects in big balls which upsets the balance of the wheel and doesn’t seal punctures anymore because it’s all in one section.
Silca supposedly posted a mea culpa blog post, with some best practices, and then deleted it leaving everyone in the dark.
Orange Seal
Moderator feel free to lock the thread
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Hey if it works for you no skin off my back, but it’s definitely not intended for valve installation; I’m surprised you can manage it given the very large chunks in the Race stuff. The video you linked to is standard Stan’s, not Race. They also want you to check your sealant every 2 weeks, which is a bit absurd and not something I do.
From the Stan’s Race product description on their site:
"The quantity and size of crystals in this special formula means that Stan’s Race Sealant can only be installed directly into the tire. As a result of its immense sealing capabilities, Race Sealant is not compatible with injector or other valve installation methods. Race sealant should be inspected every 2-3 weeks for best performance. Be sure to rinse race sealant out of used tires intended to be stored/reinstalled.
Race Sealant is not compatible with sealant injectors or other methods of installation through the valve. Race Sealant must be poured directly into the tire. (Bolding theirs, not mine)
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There’s no need unless your OCDness requires you to clean the insides of your tires.
Orangeseal is awesome though I’ve had good luck with Stan’s. I just keep topping up sealant as needed until the tire needs to be replaced. The more old accumulated latex you have in your tires, the better flat resistance you will achieve.
Extra weight you ask? I cleaned out my tires once. The accumulated latex after a year weighed like 10 grams. It’s nothing.
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Yip I read that on their page, but its been working for me although I have to be patient, too fast and it does clog. I do prefer to bypass the valve and go straight to the tyre mainly for that reason (what they have written) but for topping up I use this approach and not have to worry about reseating and deflation over night
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I just want to say that long lasting sealant idea is complete BS. Whenever you buy something that advertises itself as long lasting, you are trading off the ability to seal punctures. Don’t fall for the “endurance” sealant. It sounds great in theory but why do you want more flats?
Once you get the top up routine down, it can be done in 10 minutes total. (Remove valve core, inject with a large syringe, reinstall valve core, pump up tire). Never remove the bead on one side to install sealant. That is just a big mess. I top up every few weeks in the summer.
I’ve come to the conclusion that sealant drying out is a feature not a bug. The more top up and drying cycles you go through the better the flat resistance you achieve.
I now scrub that slimy film off the inside of my GP5000s so that the sealant sticks better to it. When I take a tire off, I like to see the latex all glued to the inside of the tire. That is your extra protection.
(I haven’t experienced a flat out on the road in 5 years - GP5000TLs + orange seal).
If you want, I can quote posts from that forum to here. But people definitely discussing batch issues and talk about how the got bottles that didn’t have the issues of older batches of sealant. I didn’t go all the way back (it’s 31 pages and frankly, if people earlier on are talking about issues from old batches, I don’t care–especially since the most recent posts are early 2023, and most of it is 2022). I’ll actually add one other thing–apparently Silca has provided warranty replacement sealant.
Do I know whether it’s better or not now? No, I haven’t tested it, but from what I’ve read from the most recent posts there, I’m still willing to try what I’ve already purchased.
If you want to highlight specific issues that other people have had, it’s up to you to highlight those–you can link to specific pages if you want, not just the last one. But, again, older complaints may not be relevant if Silca updated/fixed batch issues.
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Similar to the weight you lose from the tire wearing down is how I think about it.
I have used (for road):
- Stans (normal, doesn’t work)
- Orange seal (better)
- Muc-off (doesn’t work)
- Veyga Goats Milk (doesn’t work)
- Stans Race (best at sealing holes by far)
And “doesn’t work” means it will seal a hole but a little while later keep spitting sealant out. Or I stop and plug it with a Dynaplug and it still leaks. Or it appears sealed but next ride starts leaking again.
You can inject Stans Race through the valve (remove core). You need to use the applicator they sell. I tried an Orange seal one and it instantly blocked up.
I wouldn’t expect a tire to last long enough to have to take it off and clean out old sealant. I do approx 15000km/year on some fairly rough roads with lots of glass. At some point I will get a cut that even Stans Race and a Dynaplug fatty won’t sort out and have to toss the tire.
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