Yeah, I patch tubeless from the inside all the time. I’m not big on trusting a plug or sealant long term, at least not for racing. That looks pretty small, but I’d still patch it if the tire is already off.
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For everyone’s info, I do want to point out that the Silca pressure calculator does recommend relatively high pressures. Entering 180 lbs total weight on worn pavement, I get 76/78 PSI. That’s close to the OP’s pressure.
Personally, I started running their pressures, but I have gone down to mid 60s like most other posters. I’m 66 kg. Silca did say their calculator minimizes rolling resistance. It has always given noticeably higher recommendations than other calculators.
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Yep, patch it from the inside. I just use normal tube patches. The rubber glue doesn’t work well with the inside of tyres, but if you leave it for a couple of hours, it’ll be fine.
I run 32mm tyres at 60psi front and back. I’ve not even had to use my pump to add pressure whilst out on the road for the last two years. I’m sure that this must include a lot of luck, but I have covered thousands of miles, on plenty of rough tarmac, with a little bit of gravel.
Try Silca and use less pressure, at 75-80KG I run 65PSI with no issues.
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Don’t bother patching, just stick in a Dynaplug, they are a permanent fix and can remain for the life of the tyre without any issues.
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I’ve been running GP4000/5000 series tyres for 10+ years, 28 mm for about half that period. I’ve really noticed the difference going from the GP5000S TL (old tubeless model) to TR (new model) - the rear is now getting punctures after 1000-2000km whereas previously they’d easily go 4000+ km. In particular, I get punctures that “weep” and never seal (even at 60 psi). I’ve tried a couple of different sealants including MucOff. According to BikeRollingResistance, Conti have dialled back the puncture resistance in pursuit of other goals.
Do try what others have suggested (and DynaPlug works great!) but I’m going to try some other tyre options.
I think they’ve dialled down the puncture resistance on the TR on the assumption that you’ll run enough sealant to deal with small holes. Know a few people who run those tires with tubes (I don’t know why either! Can only assume it’s not wanting to go tubeless but simultaneously wanting to have the latest and most expensive tires 
) and they puncture frequently. They’re much better with a decent amount of good quality sealant sloshing around in them though.
FWIW the GP5000 tubed version still has that great balance of rolling resistance and puncture resistance and is usually available on sale a lot cheaper than the tubeless version. I still run those with latex tubes for racing, and the lower price means I’m more comfortable just retiring them when they start to cut up.
Bit late to this, but you should definitely be running closer to 60 psi at your weight so the sealant doesn’t just spray out instantly..