I think it could only help. I feel stans biggest problem is they don’t have any particulates in their standard sealant. The last time I tried stans, which was a couple years ago, I did put some glitter in it. I just didn’t get a puncture that I knew of to see if the glitter helped. Surprisingly, when I changed the tire I didn’t find a single spec of glitter. But as others have said patching would be better.
They must have added this text to the bottle? 2 years ago when I used it there was no indication like this. But I agree with their finding, stans does not seal over 40psi.
What are peoples experience with pressure loss over time in road tubeless setups?
I have 25 mm GP5000 TLs. I have been surprised with how quickly they lose pressure. There is a very noticeable pressure loss in just one day…I’d say similar (though definitely no worse) than latex tubes.
This has been surprising…because my cross and gravel tubeless tires lose nearly nothing over time…I’d say more slowly than butyl tube loss…
Compared to butyl tubes, all my tubeless setups lose air much much slower. my 23 and 25mm road setups will lose maybe 5psi after a week. My 38mm gravel setup takes about a 3-4 weeks to lose 5psi.
I find that sealant works 60% of the time if the puncture is big enough to be seen. If the puncture is big enough to be seen wit the naked eye or doesn’t want to seal, I pull the tire off and use a patch on the inside.
I run my tires up to 120 PSI on the rollers (70-80 on the road), and haven’t blown out a repair in 2 seasons of running tubeless on the road. I did switch to orange sealant, but I’m not 100% sure it makes that much difference.
I’ve found that the more times you add sealant the better tubeless tires get at holding air.
I’ve read about some people first adding a tiny bit of sealant so that it makes an initial coating and dries out quickly. A few days later they add the proper amount of sealant.
I haven’t had good experiences with Orange Seal and actual punctures. Works well for MTB but not with higher pressures. Failed me several times, a lot of trash on our roads.
That sounds about right. 5-10psi over night, then slows a bit.
I was honestly worried that maybe the beads werent set up properly on the shoulder of the rim…but I imagine if that were the case I’d see sealant. If it’s just because the gp5000 is a little extra thin and permeable i’m fine with that.
A few advices below are great- such as change tires, for your own safety. I recommend googling youtube videos of road tire failure crash. You were suckered into buying inferior technology that can either not hold air, leaks or decompresses catastrophically. Last that happened to me was years ago, and I swore I would never touch clinchers or tubuless until as safe and ISO standardized as auto tires. My first such clincher/tubless 10,000 kms were filled with so many events that I learned my lesson. Switched to tubulars, do the 5 minute mariposa tape, and 50,000 kms and 8 punctures later (mainly end of tubular life but Cafelatex enables 80-100 psi finish ride), have not had a single scare flat or sudden decompression event. When riding 35-50 km/hr, or descending 60+ km/hr, that tubular safety is priceless. and, honestly, they do not puncture! Well, the tire does but 99.9% of time it never breaches the inner tube. So, I loose 8 watts, but get a better tire that provides a wider operating area at steeper angles… I only ride two tubulars: Veloflex OR Conti 4000/Force/Comp tubulars. None are the same as their garbage tubeless counterparts. Conti 5000s are not only hard to get on, but the force used likely weakens its sidewall and is a Firestone explosion waiting to happen at 60-70PSi 50C asphalt and 85kg + weight…
As for your particular issue, yes Stan’s failed in tubulars as well- but they ALL fail in any rear tire for 2 reasons. A- the latex does not mix or patch with the synthetic rubbers and 2- rubber movement while riding removes the synthetic latex plug. Caffelatex by Mariposa will get you to 80 PSI and finish the ride but I strongly recommend never riding a latex plugged tubular! It working in MBT types, well bigger tires, thicker etc, in no way works in roads which, lest we forget, have no safety and ISO standardization!!!
