I plan to buy stock bike 
Do you know how to check which cassette generation is without hearing it?
These are really what are keeping me from making the switch. I have 2 bikes with Ultegra Di2, plus 2 extra wheel sets, and it would just cost way too much to switch everything over. My road and CX bike came with Ultegra, so when upgrading to Di2, I saved by not having to switch out a lot of parts. But now I have potentially 5 (4 wheel sets and a wheel-off trainer) freehub/cassettes to swap over plus 2 full group sets. The cassettes alone would cost close to $1000. With that said, if I did it all over again, Iād probably choose SRAM. Wiring up a single bike for Di2 can drive you mad, doing 2 must make me a fool. I do like the extra top button on Di2. Perhaps SRAM could add one in the future.
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Look between the cogs on the cassette. The newer cassettes have rubber rings between. The old ones do not. But itās not a big deal, the shop can call SRAM and have them send a set of the rubber dampers to fit to the cassette - itās an upgrade covered under warranty.
Love AXS on my TT bike. Love the ease of install and break down for travel. Havenāt had a single issue so far!
Rubber rings - sounds strange 
I have to see it.
I put Force AXS group on my new Crit bike, after using Red etap on my road bike for a year. I have Ultegra Di2 on my TT bike and I have to say I love the SRAM groups way more. Just seems easy to maintain, use, etc. I have 0 complaints on either other than the di2 wires. My preference is SRAM and I own both.
I donāt notice any noise difference between the 2,but perhaps I havenāt ridden the Force AXS bike enough (70mi).
Heard about the noise. A red cassette also helps. Pulling the trigger on the Canyon Ultimate Force eTap so I hope they come with 2nd gen.
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I really like AXS force setup. The only thing I donāt like is the disk brake lever travel. I wish it would be tighter, but pad clearance is very generous.
Rear shifting is fast and perfect. Front needs to be dialed and then itās good enough.
The bike has some chain noise, but as soon as I go on a group ride my bike is one of the quietest.
I would buy again and the range is awesome.
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@Alexbn921 Iām really digging the matchy gold elements. So good!
You can definitely tighten up the feel on SRAM HRD brakes. Hereās the way I do it on eTap levers:
There is a contact point adjustment screw under the top of the hood. Make sure it is all the way open. Remove your wheel and brake pads. Pull the lever a few times, and verify that both caliper pistons moved in the same amount. Using a SRAM bleed block, space the pistons out to the width of the solid end of the block. Clean everything well, reinstall pads, reinstall wheel, re-center caliper. Then adjust the contact point adjustment screw on top of the lever until it feels good. Set up that way when all parts are in good shape I have yet to find any better brake feel on a drop-bar hydro system.
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I wish I had longed to reply, maybe later, but suffice it to sayā¦AXS is awesome, and I love it.
I have lots of bikes and have ridden dura ace for years. Both fantastic products, but Iām loving my AXS. Iāve got a couple thousand on the group in the last two months, and Iāve had zero problems. For me, it works perfect, and I love the 12 speed cassette in 10-33 with the 48/35 front chainrings.
The smoothness of shifting between wider ratios is dreamy. Lol really love itā¦
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Thanks for the tips, but that is just a temporary solution and as the pads wear your bit point will move in. I did exactly as you described when I installed my brakes. The thing is that all brakes have a natural resting point, this combined with the leverage ratio will give you total lever travel. Right now I have just enough space to not bottom out the levers on the bars and the adjuster nuts on top are maxed out.
They work great and I love the feel. Itās much better than the dura ace levers. On my mountain bike I will never run SRAM brakes as they donāt have the power I like.
Most road hydraulic brakes, SRAMās included, are not closed systems. Unless the pistons are sticking in the caliper, the lever travel should remain (very close to) identical as pads wear.
Sort of. Brakes donāt have a ānatural resting pointā, what they have is a standard amount the pistons retract after the pads make contact. This amount is set by the caliper design and how much the piston seal is allowed to flex. This is why you must set the pistons by extending them and then pushing them back. If you insert the bleed block and pull the lever to get the pads to contact, they will not be set at the correct spacing.
This should never be the case. for safety reasons, you should have full braking power with a finger still between the lever and the bar.
Ultimately this is what matters, but Iām super picky about my hydraulic brake setup. Then again, we have opposite opinions on MTB brakes too, to take all this with a grain of salt 
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We are saying the same thing about pad spacing. Seal and caliper design along with retaining springs determine the natural preferred distance from the rotor. This preferred distance will always be the end point wether you start too close or too far. Once you arrive at this point lever travel will remain constant as the pads wear. This is as long as there is sufficient fluid in the system and the pistons remain clean and free to move.
This is where my brakes are. They just have more free stroke then I would like and I have run out of adjustment range.
A full finger would be my preference for clearance to the bars and I am at half that.
I have always ridden Shimano Dura Ace mechanically.
My new bike (supersix evo 2020) is equipped with Force AXS and rode it for approx 200km now. Pretty new, pretty awkwardā¦
The biggest difference I experience is rear shifting speed. As a competitive cyclist you want smooth, but direct shifting.
When I am sprinting out of the saddle, I canāt really time a perfect shift with SRAM.
I am told that the electronic system knows when to shift to reduce chain and casette wear. Meaning that it will always use the same, dedicated teeth to shift.
As a user you donāt know where those dedicated teeth are positioned in relation to the chain engagement, resulting in laggy and inconsistent shifting.
Accelerating out of the saddle with mech Dura Ace was no problem when shifting on the sweet spot, resulting in a smooth movement, without loss of momentum.
This is simply impossible now.
Anyone experience with this? Am I too sensitive about this? Can I improve my shifting skills? Can you adjust the settings?
However, for the non-competitive cyclist, this group is reasonable priced and future proof.
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Have you ever serviced the master cylinders in the levers? One of my SRAM HRDās always had too much lever travel no matter what I did (bleeds, piston cleans, piston resets, etc.)ā¦ until I serviced (cleaned and DOT-greased) the master cylinder and its seals. It was like a new brake and lever after that!
Sure sign of need is if the lever can rattle around a few (or more) mm fore/aft before actually pushing on the system.
I have the Force eTap AXS OJ my gravel. The shifting performance is nice and reliable. But the force is way louder than my Ultegra Di2. Like the double.
I have huge problems with the noise, thatās why I came here. I literally tried everything
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Thanks for all the answers. I finally bought Giant TCR Pro 0 on SRAM Force. Did I do the right ā¦? I donāt know that yet, I havenāt traveled enough. At the moment I am satisfied with the bicycle and groupset. One of the reasons I bought a bike on SRAM was to try something new. I suspect that I will be able to assess my decision only after a long time. For now, itās mainly emotions
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I ordered a Giant Propel Advanced Pro 0 Disc Medium with SRAM Force eTap AXS. I was very excited about the purchase. I could not wait to pick it up.
Once the bike was ready for pickup I noticed there was rubbing on the front derailleur. It was occurring when I was cross chaining for both the big and small chain ring. It also was occurring for the big chain ring (48T) with the three big sprockets (28/24/21) on the 10/28 cluster. I know in theory cross chaining is bad for the chain, but I would expect the front derailleur to auto trim/yaw enough to stop the rubbing.
My old Shimano 600 allows manual trim adjustments to stop this rubbing. I alway cross chained to stay in the big ring as long as possible with no problems. Surely state of the art electronic shifting can support this?
Suffice to say I did not take the bike home with me until the problem is/was rectified. This is new technology for the bike shop involved so they were not sure what was going on. Theyāre talking with the SRAM and Giant technicians to get to the bottom of the problem. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is this normal behaviour?
@mnowakowski How are you finding the shifting on your Giant TCR Pro 0. Is it the Medium or M/L?
I have two bikes with Red AXS. Both awesome, 2x and my road bike 1x on the TT bike. It is easy to see why some people have issues. The setup is particular, although very clearly detailed in the instructions.
I love the micro adjustments on the rear, every group needs to be adjusted at some point and being able to do it while riding along is amazing.
I wouldnāt have any hesitation in recommending Sram.
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In my opinion, everything is a matter of regulation. SRAM requires fairly precise adjustment of the front derailleur. Their instructional videos and PDF manuals show it great. My bike was well adjusted because I bought a bike from a store where experienced people were. Donāt worry about it, even if the store doesnāt do it to you, you can do it yourself at home after reading the instructions. Sometimes, by trial and error, driving with allen keys in your pocket In the end you will set this prefect and by the way youāll know everything about SRAM
My bike is size L. I am 187 cm tall.
I thought about this frame size for a long time, I had ML size Propel before and now I have ML size TCX. However, in the case of the TCR I decided on L, in my opinion it will be more convenient for long distances (150-300km)