I love my deep section (62) Dt swiss ARC 1400 Wheels, on my Canyon Aerod, they look awesome and sexy, however getting the tyre off when fixing a puncture out on a ride is a bloody nightmare, almost to the point that I end up injuring my hand in the process. It takes so long to fix a puncture compared to my other wheels on my more endurance focussed road bike that I’m second guessing taking it out at times in fear of a puncture.
So I’m now looking to take the plunge into the mystical world of tubeless tyres. Does anyone on here have any recommendations or experience going tubeless on these kind of deep section wheels. I’m looking to understand if there is a perfect match for my DT Swiss.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated as im a total newb in this field.
so something like a 25x622 or 26x622 is a good size to preserve aero.
No other real consideration that I can think of outside racing vs training tire… we have a lot of road debris and after trying all the fast racing tubeless tires and still having to deal with roadside repairs I ended up going with Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR as daily training tire on my Enve 5.6 disc wheels (similar outer dimension and wheel depth). On my second set of Pirelli and they are pretty much bulletproof and yet still roll well although I’m giving up rolling resistance. The Pirelli roll better and more puncture resistance versus Conti Gatorskins (tubed tires). For racing I prefer the feel of Specialized S-Works Turbo RapidAir and Conti GP 5000 TL are good too.
I have the ones that are 48mm deep. Good wheels, but also a nightmare to get tires on. I tried for an hour to get some Conti 5000s on and then gave up, because I realised it’d be no good anyway to be stuck on the side of the road trying to fix them. Specialized Turbos went on easy, but they’re not tubeless. You could go for something like those Turbos and run latex tubes. You’d have the same rolling resistance, and they’re not bad to fix a flat.
I have the DT Swiss Dicut ARC 1100 (62’s) and went tubeless in February. Not sure if there is a perfect match but, if they are the 17 internal (or 20) probably any 25mm tire or 28 will be perfect depending on how you want the ride to feel. These aren’t hookless rims so you have many many options of tires.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who has struggled with these wheels and GP5000’s, i’m getting faster at changing but there has been times where its taken me 45 minutes or so to change a puncture. Great advice on the Specialized turbos, i might give them a go.
I am quite intrigued by the Victoria run flat liners. Pros Have been testing it for the last two years in races. It Only weighs 25 g per wheel and allows you to keep riding a flat tubeless clincher until it’s convenient for the team car to get you.
But it also seems like it would be perfect for my arthritic hands and avoiding the call of shame
One thing I am trying to figure out is the interval on adding sealant and how much to add. I went tubeless mid February and just added more today. I couldn’t hear any sloshing of sealant so I added 1 OZ per tire. No idea if that’s enough/too much though. Nor do I have a handle on how quick the sealant dries up. Seems like each month I’ll need to check as I live in an area of very hot temps.
Anywho, you carry a spare tube with in case the slash/gash/hole is too big for the sealant to seal. If it doesn’t seal just put in the tube and ride home clincher style.
See the “dipstick” on the smaller bottle? Buy the Orange Seal that comes with the dipstick or make your own.
Orange Seal has longer lasting and shorter lasting sealant. Pretty sure I have the shorter lasting sealant in this pic. I add 40 ml to a new tire. Then use dipstick to check level, take a pic to remember in a month. Then once a month add 20 ml and check with dipstick. It’s like checking your car for oil. Every 3-6 months take the tire off and clean out the tire.
I have given up on the GP tubless. I have a few left, but I paid the LBS to install them now. The hour, stress, and damage to my hands are not worth it. My riding friends say Shwalabee. But, that one has more rolling resistance. I figure I could do just as well w a regular GP and a tube.
Yeah, tires that are that tough to mount are just stupid. Hopefully these tire/wheel standards that are apparently becoming more prevalent will help.
If I had those Zipp 303s that are hookless and super easy to change, I might think about tubeless for road, but otherwise I don’t see the benefit. Tubeless can develop slow leaks that are a pain to diagnose, and a hole that won’t seal on the road is a bigger pain to fix.
