See the powermatching thread. I thought this was a combined tr and Garmin issue, but you’ve got my attention now… Must say, when not using powermatch, the oscillations go for me. Note that there’s a fw rollout this week.
This is very noticeable- power gets to the target, then drops off, recovers, drops off. Once you restart the trainer, it’s all normal.
Good to know I’m not the only one, interesting!
For curiosity sake, can you post the the “open flux surgery” instructions they’ve sent?? Many thanks!
Thanks for this, can you please confirm that you have tried the following:
- I Hear a Strange Noise Coming from My FLUX Series Smart Trainer
- Maintenance and Care for a FLUX Series Smart Trainer
If this does not help then can you please confirm if this happened after a specific activity and if so what were you doing when this happened.
Opps it isn’t what I thought, I just looked at the pictures. Just a bit of hub and cassette maintenance, regardless I didn’t do it. They are really starting to annoy me with their stupid requests.
So Tacx/Garmin was a complete waste of time, 2 weeks of emailing for nothing. Despite telling them repeatedly I didn’t want a replacement flux s, they tried to offer it to me at least 3/4 times, almost like they didn’t read them.
I’m done with them, lifting a kickr core from LBS this week, thankfully halfords will refund my money.
On the flux s unit, I didn’t enjoy it on trainer road as I had to constantly change gears to maintain power and cadence, quite annoying. Less of an issue on zwift, though I suspect their workouts may be a similar story. I could not recommend the unit to anyone, to be honest I’m amazed they have not scrapped the product and came up with an alternative that actually works.
http://severinkaelin.ch/fix-noise-tacx-flux/
This would be more like it (but certainly not recommended by Tacx).
From the pictures, I’d say you only need to remove the panel on the drive side since that’s where the belt is located.
Hi, I’ve noticed today the same noise/issue. Did you get replacement or did you somehow repair it by yourself?
Thanks.
I got a refund and bought a wahoo kickr core. Should of bought this in first place. Erg mode flawless as well. I won’t purchase a tacx product again.
They told me the policy is you need 3 or more units to fail to offer an upgrade replacement. I’m not sure what refund policy is… local laws would apply I presume. Also Europe may have different CS policies to the US.
I had 3 units fail, 2 flux and a flux s. Guy in halfords thought if we had of been into the new tax year tacx may have been more accommodating. Only for halfords I would of had to accept another Flux S. Tacx customer service was infuriating to say the least.
1 Like
Since this week my flux s is starting to makes a strange noise at the beginning of a workout. After a few minutes the sound disappears.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-zDPQfcaTgTBX1gxi-6pFOA7QmIBEk4f/view?usp=drivesdk
If under warranty get rid of it, so glad to be done with it. You will get a kickr core for similar money. If out of warranty apparently its an easy fix
1 Like
Could be belt wear, I had a similar noise, I opened it up, took of the belt, gave the tensioner pull a light rub with a bit of sand paper to remove the build of belt dust on it and it’s now quiet again. No idea how long it will last though. Going to order a replacement belt anyway
I bought a Tacx Flux S super super discounted from a shop because it was a returned item. It appears the flywheel rotor is slightly warped so when you spin, there’s a light scraping sound each revolution. Otherwise the trainer seems to function alright, it connects and works when I run it on TR.
Any ideas about getting the rotor back true? We’ve dismantled it pretty far, but the weight might be press fit and unable to disassemble far enough? I can provide some photos if anyone is interested in some problem solving.
Side note: I like to buy returned items from sidewalk sales, it’s more fun than going to Vegas and occasionally I get a really great item that just needs a replaced bolt or a quick fix on the sewing machine. I bought the Tacx to see if if I could provide an upgrade to my SO’s wheel-on trainer, so it’s not vital that it works but is a nice-to-have.
Post some pics up as I have i just gone through what can only be described as a learning curve on taking a flux apart to get it running quietly.
As a headline make sure when you replace the outer cover of the unit you put the same screws back in the same holes otherwise you can damage the unit. In simple terms if you use a long screw in a wrong hole you will push a strip of magnets onto the fly wheel which then doesn’t turn. Even if you have done this, it’s not fatal its just a pain to get it running properly again.
Probably the plastic “cooling” disc is warped. It’s attached to the flywheel side. You should be able to confirm this upon removing the cover. No need to disassemble the rest.
Here’s some pics and a video to hear the scraping.
My SO took it apart (he’s the handy one) and had all the screws/bolts labeled.
One more bonus pic of the magnet ring. Something damaged a few of the magnets.
From the state of the magnets it looks that either the long screws have gone into the position of the smaller screws and pushed the metal strip onto the flywheel or the factory was remiss when they assembled your trainer.
So if my first suggestion doesn’t resolve the issue please look below as to what I needed to do to get my flux 2 to run quietly.
First please check the plastic housing to the right of the flywheel ( the part the hand is revolving). This plastic cooling vent should be attached to the fly wheel and should rotate with the fly wheel. Your cooling vent doesn’t rotate.
If this doesn’t resolve the issue please see the actions I needed to complete before my Flux 2 ran silently.
Check the missing bits from the circle magnets haven’t been caught on the larger cylinder magnets which are yellow. If there are loose bits on the circle magnets you’ll need to remove them, the circle magnet on the bottom image nearest the camera looks like there is some material which requires moving.
1)When the metal strip is screwed into position within the plastic housing the top of the circle magnets should sit flush with the top of the plastic housing, if not you’ll need to straighten the metal strip. I removed the loose circle magnets and then used a vice the straighten the metal strip and then superglued the circle magnets in place. Ensure they sit within the plastic moulding as the moulding is circular shaped and the circle magnets should sit flush when metal strip is screwed into position
2)Check the plastic housing on the fly wheel is fully seated against the metal. With my unit the plastic cooling vent had lifted off the fly wheel where its wasn’t screwed down which meant supergluing the plastic housing against the fly wheel. To ensure a satisfactory outcome i wedged a screwdriver against the housing to ensure the housing glued/attached successfully to the flywheel.
3)Once the metal strip holding the magnets sits flush have a look at the fly wheel. Mine wasn’t straight and required some correction ( In comparison your flywheel on the video doesn’t look too bad). Unfortunately the only way i found to correct this was to rotate the flywheel and identify the offending part of the flywheel which touched the magnets either side of the flywheel and gentley tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet until nothing touches when the flywheel rotates. Gentle taps are your friend! From stripped down position you have the trainer this is an easy fix.
I used the chat function with Garmin to request a price for a replacement part for the magnet strip. Once/if i get a reply i’ll confirm a cost.
Any further questions please ask and let me know how you get on.
The magnets are far from flush, probably 2mm above edge of housing. You can see the difference between the first magnet (flush) and the rest.
For the rest, the metal rotor and plastic cooling piece had already been detached from the flywheel. These were screwed together on purchase. If it weren’t for the protruding magnets, I doubt the warp in the rotor would be causing the rubbing.