Sram eagle axs micro shift

Hi All,

just installed SRAM eagle axs - loving it

having some sticky shifting between gears 5 and 6 - so was planning on using micro shift to adjust … normally whenever i touch derailer i end up ruining it so was wondering if any of you had any tips and tricks to help that particular shift and adjustment go smoothly using electronic adjsut

many many thanks in advance!

The micro adjust is super easy to adjust. Super straightforward. Hard to mess up.

When my new bike with Eagle AXS came in I had the same issue and micro adjust didn’t solve it. I ended up adjusting the b-gap and straighten the hanger. I can’t say for sure which did the trick since I did both adjustments at once but after that it was shifting perfect. My guess is the hanger alignment did it.

Make sure your limits are perfect as well.


hi there - b-gap and limits are dialled

with the micro adjust - does one just adjust by eye - ie lining up the pulley wheel with associated troublesome cog at the back and then move inboard. and outboard ?

Lining up by eye is a good start. Again though… I’d check your hanger. Micro adjust doesn’t work for each cog individually. The adjustment you make will follow through on the entire cassette. Works similar to an “old-fashioned” barrel adjuster.

What micro adjust position are you in now and where did you start? You can find that info in the app.

I believe the latest version of axs app has control of micro adjust through your phone, very convenient.

oh cool !

i just had a mechanic check the bike on Sunday so i can’t see the hanger or wheel being the issue - maybe it just needs a little adjustment across the whole cassette?

Assuming that the Eagle AXS rear derailleur works the same as my Force AXS rear derailleur, you can read out the trimming position in SRAM’s app. So if you are concerned you’ll eff something up, open the app, navigate to the relevant page, read off the numerical value and write it down. So you can always come back to that baseline.

Before you do anything, make sure everything else is right, i. e. your rear mech is aligned properly and the B screw is set correctly.

Then don’t be afraid: one of the biggest, surprising advantages that electronic shifting made for me is being able to trim the rear derailleur on the fly while riding. This is so, so much better than having to do that on the bike stand. Sometimes there are subtle differences in shift quality when you are shifting under load, and this is no longer a concern. I love, love being able to trim while riding. Like @ChrisJDunbar wrote, it is hard to mess up.

Lastly, it is quite common that initially, when the bike is new and all the drive train components haven’t had time to “settle in” that one or two gears are a bit noisy. Much of that will disappear after putting a few hundred km on the bike.


awesome thanks for tips - the noting down of setting in app was great - and i managed to tweak perfectly

really appreciated !

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Unsure about the bike you are on, but if it is full suspension, remember to adjust for sag before setting the B screw. I made this mistake and ran into a similar issue as the one you mention. After setting everything up properly, smooth running. Just another box to check if you are still having issues. Good luck! It’s a fun upgrade.


Are you sure they actually checked the hanger?

After spending about $1000 on a system, might be worth spending a few more dollars and replacing the hanger anyway. At worst you end up with a spare.

A hanger alignment might not be something that a shop mechanic checks unless there’s a reason to. Might be worth asking if they did and if not checking that. Many times the symptom of a bent hanger is perfect shifting except for a couple in the middle of the cassette.

The eagle stuff is super finicky with having your hanger dead straight

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