Mine was on the bike stand, and had gone a few times spinning forward, but backpedaling even at that point was a mistake. Wow…
So don’t forget to backpedal after you get the chain working better. Jamming up the derailleur after spending so much time getting the chain waxed and installed would be embarrassing…
I’m very happy with my wax system and would buy it again, but I completely agree. The instructions are not great. I watched hours of videos and read hours worth of forum posts to figure out exactly how I needed to go about using the system (it was my first time ever waxing chains). I have a good system down now (no pun intended), but I feel like Silca could make the process significantly easier with better instructions and/or a single start-to-finish video complete with FAQ, etc.
Kinda having buyers regret for the slow cooker/ crock pot I brought, although still half the price of the wax warmers!
Here’s another “don’t”: Don’t leave your drivetrain in the highest gear. I did that and when I got on the bike to start pedaling, the drivetrain was so stiff, and shifting unresponsive, I fell right over in a very public way 
And I was totally amazed at the amount of wax on the outside of the inner links! I didn’t expect that level of excess wax. Since I haven’t done a waxing without the ‘strip chip’, is that an artifact of using that chip? Eventually that will fall off, but the amount of wax. Keep refilling that pot.
And one thing I’m not sure of, is there a time, and what do I look for to have to toss the existing wax?
I wipe the side plates down when I take chains out of the wax - it’s not helping being there and as you’ve found it just drops off or rubs off on your derailer/jockey wheels etc later.
I have commented about having Speedplay. cleats that rusted out, and I finally found a picture of the cleat damage. All from being on a trainer. I guess it’s to be expected, but how to limit the chances of rusting opens up issues. Silicone spray, and then the cleat is slippery.
I don’t remember what thread I was on, and can’t find it, but here it is. Their pre-buyout aluminum cleats were better, but stiffer as well: harder to get into and out of, but then the only thing that might rust would be the screws and inserts in the shoes. Brutal conditions for sure…
And 2 dog hairs. 
Here’s my tuppenceworth: Josh (and common sense) both say the wax is more liquid, or less viscous, at higher temperatures and Josh points out in one of his FAQs that putting the cold chain into hot wax leads to initial ‘clumping’ of wax solidifying on the chain. He says leave it in until the chain warms up, but here’s what I do:
I didn’t buy the Silca pot. I’ve got a saucepan from IKEA (16cm diameter) that cost around ten euros and a meat thermometer. Flip the pot and use the bottom as a template to thread the chain onto wire so that it fits snug and flat on the bottom of the pot. Heat the wax up to 100 Celcius in the pot. Heat the chain up to 100 Celcius in the oven. Give the wax a good stir, because the tungsten disulfide tends to hang around at the bottom, and pop the chain in. Turn off the heat and monitor the temperature down to 70 Celcius, swishing and jiggling the chain periodically to open the links. At 70 degrees, slowly lift the chain out onto a microfiber cloth and immediately use another cloth to remove the worst of the excess wax. Put a couple of drops of drip wax on your quick link when you’re remounting the chain if you’re worried about that.
For me - 100 C (212F) is too hot. A cold chain clumping hot wax will remedy itself in a few minutes, I wouldn’t worry. I used to poo poo the lower 75 temp but I’ve found the chains last longer at the lower temp. I put the chain in the pot with the hard room temp wax and turn on the Silca pot to 80 C. Once it’s all liquid I swoosh and spin and drop the temp to 75. I don’t wipe anything and hang the chain for the night. If I have more chains I’ll drop one at a time until the temp reads 80 with an infrared gun. Then drop it to 75 for a bit. Once dry in the morning, I throw them over an old derailleur pulley on a nail in my garage stud and run the chains back and forth a couple times and flip and do a few more back and forth. 100 is too hot in my opinion, wiping the chain is just a pain 
Happy Trails!
Good idea about preheating the chain
Don’t bother. Just put cold chain into cold wax and then heat the wax up. Not worth the extra steps.
No need to wipe down the chain for excess. Best to leave the chain as still as possible so you don’t move any of the wax inside. Unless it is for a trainer ride and you didnt want so many excess flakes.
Waxing is easier than degreasing and relubing chains the “normal” way if you let it be.
I melt the wax at a higher temp to speed it up. Especially if you half fill it.
There’s no audible feedback on temperature. The system can’t know the wax temperature, only the plates.
Drop the chain in, turn the pot on, and leave it. If it’s at 70 it can take a while to melt. Then give ot a swish, pull it out and hey presto!
In theory you need to break the links. I’ve found that i install it and then put the bike in the biggest sprocket and chainring, turn the cranks for a minute or so.
The hardest part is ensuring the quick link goes on cleanly. Make sure to clean the links where the quick link goes to make it easier to fit.
I boil a kettle of water, pour that over the chain and wipe the chain relatively clean. The I just stick it in the pot at 85 to melt the wax quicker (75 takes way too long to melt) and let it sit at 75 until I get around to removing it.
