New AS TR mounted, without sealant (yet), and two hours later it dropped from 70 to 65psi.
However my front tape job was leaking air badly. This past week it would drop from 70 to 40psi in 4 hours. So much for wrapping front wheel tape on an upside down bike.
Stripped the tape, and 30 minutes of isopropyl alcohol later I had a clean rim.
Took it to LBS and borrowed their wheel stand, and two layers of Muc-Off tape this time:
No air bubbles and it’s like a perfect Roval factory tape install Thank you Kevin for letting me wrench on your bench!
We all got a good laugh at the Muc-Off sticker. And talked Strava segment shit because he had to get help to beat one of mine from a month ago. Good times, maybe I found a retirement job lol.
Might have been broached somewhere in this thread but struggling to see if it’s been mentioned, but hoping someone has a couple pointers. I’ve just tried to set up my hollowgram rins tubeless, put them on without sealant all ok but as using silca sealant, I had to put it through the tyre but now I can’t get the tyre to seat true always one area that’s not seated right. Any tips for solving this? I’ve tried going up on the max recommended psi, also tried dropping the pressure and trying to seat it by hand, which helped but not perfect. It’s always the same area where it’s not sitting correctly.
Any suggestions for how to fix air leaking out around the tubeless valve stem?
I taped the wheels, installed the valves, got the tires to seat, but air leaks from around the stem hole on both wheels. As best I can tell, no air is leaking from any of the spoke holes (used soapy water to check), so I think the tape job is good.
(Small rant: I’m frustrated with Enve. For as expensive as their wheels are, they do not tape them, install the valves, or even provide rotor lock rings. Hunt, eThirteen, and many other brands with lower price points do. Rant over.)
What has worked for me in the past is, electrical tape over the valve hole (a couple of inches either side), make a pin hole over the valve hole, then push push the valve through and close/ tighten with the nut as usual.
That;s a good suggestion. These wheels have some sort of rectangular indent about an inch on either side of the valve hole - looks like part of the mold for the valve hole. Maybe the tape isn’t doing a good job in this area.
I will say that I find Enve rims more challenging to tape neatly due to the intricate shape of the rim bed. But I’d be careful with any unusual valve sealing measures. Any leaks from a bad tape job that make it inside the rim will probably leak from the valve area just due to it being the largest opening. This does NOT mean the leak is at the valve where it contacts the rim bed. Enve even stipulates you use their pressure relieving nut, because air does not get out easily through the spoke openings of their rims, and without some way to relieve pressure from a bad or failed tape job, the rim will explode.
Enve doesn’t tape the wheels because tape doesn’t hold well for shipping. It’s a problem for every brand but Enve chooses to let customers take care of taping rims at home to avoid issues. I’d call it a smart decision but it does require that you are able to tape your own rims.
My source is Enve, I’ve also discussed it with Hunt who do tape wheels for shipping but are actively working on creating better tape. It’s the heat cycles that cause issues. Haven’t talked to dt swiss and roval wouldn’t say anything but it’s nothing specific to one brand vs another. Often new wheels have leaks in the tape, it’s because of heat cycles.
that is odd, i wonder why enve isn’t able to figure it out but other brands like roval and dt swiss don’t seem to have issues. maybe they are unwilling buy a rim taping machine for their domestic manufacturing facility?
factory rim tape jobs are the gold standard in my experience across many brands, and i’m talking about wheelsets (not tubeless wheels included in complete bikes which I suppose have the benefit of an inflated tube pressing against them during shipment/storage)
