I carry the Schwalbe levers because they’re designed for both install and removal (and are super thin to boot): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UAQL6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
At home I use the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack for install: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AYML7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Never going back to ripping the flesh off my thumbs to mount tight tubeless tires again.
Those are lifesavers. They are the only way I could get the 5000 TL on my rims. They were so tight I couldn’t even the Bead Jack tool work.
Just removed the Schwalbes, cleaned the wheels and stored the tires, mounted, seated, and sealed up the Pirellis in less than an hour. Quite a difference from my experience with the Schwalbes.
Mounted by hand, snug but not too tight. Seated without sealant through the valve using compressor inflator. Sealant in and reseated easily. No indications of any leaks.
That troublesome rear Schwalbe took half a day by itself and always needed a direct air blower chuck to seat.
Hopefully I’ve found my long term training setup: Pirelli Cinturato 26F/28R w/ Orange Seal.
I’ve been riding the Schwalbe pro ones for about 2-3 years now, never had an issue with punctures. Maybe the debris on your roads is different to here? I even have a set of 28mm Schwalbe one (not pro) on my other bike, that I use on gravel quite often. (90 miles the other day, of what I thought would be very nice gravel, but turned into a MTB route later on…).
My first tubeless tyre on the disc wheel was a Pro one, when it started to wear the sealant came into play often but on the whole I had no complaints. Based on my experience when I got a new set of Hunt wheels for the road bike which came with pro ones. I had no problems at first but then I got a speight of tiny p’tures causing the tyre to deflate slightly which eventually meant a bump such as a cateye (road stud) was enough to unseat the tyres. I almost gave up on tubeless until I realised the problem was not the tyre or the tubeless philosophy its self but the sealant (avoid Finish Line sealant) and I had no problem with the pro ones once I changed sealant other than the occasional having to wipe sealant of the frame when they were wearing out 
The last time I needed a tubeless tyre for the disc wheel in a hurry (the side wall of a conti 5000tl was ripped) all the lbs had in stock was a pro one and touch wood that has been reliable in racing and training. I don’t know how many miles its done but so far none of the sealant spray has emerged. When it does it’ll be a sign it needs replacing but I wouldn’t really worry if thats all I could get in future.
Certainly possible. The rear tire just gave me problems from the start. It went on very easily (like comically so), took a blower chuck with valve core out and 100psi air to seat every time, punctured 3 times.
The front was a champ. Easy setup, no issues, no punctures. Maybe just a finicky tire and a string of bad luck with it. Don’t know.
We’ll see how the Pirellis do. So far, quite a bit better on that rear wheel anyway. I am quite certain they will roll slower but this is a training setup so I don’t really care.
Converted all my bikes to tubleless. TT bike, Madone, Emonda and gravel bikes. No problem at all with flats, had a punture 15 miles from home, kept going and it
resealed. Bit of latex on kit, but only lost a bit of pressure maybe about 15 psi. In terms of setting them up… a lot is down to quality of tape and how well you tape the rim.
Having commented on here quite a few times in the past - I finally have a few updates after getting 3 GP5000TL and GP5000S-TR punctures in a month! (all 25mm)
For background, I had multiple years, thousands of miles per year on tubeless with no flats ever. I said that too many times I guess because this spring has been awful 
Things I’ve learned -
So, there’s my reality check for road tubeless at long last - no complaints thanks to the dynaplugs. I can’t possibly put a tube on these roadside, so I’ve stopped carrying a tube/levers, will keep 3-5 plugs with me all the time, and am just banking on plugs with wife/uber as my last resort.
Do you find any issues with your tubeless setup if you don’t ride one of those bikes for a period of a few weeks? If not, any recommended actions (such as rotating the wheels periodically) that help keep the setups working over time?
As an aside… my tape job on the rear wheel of my training setup appears pretty atrocious, but somehow it holds just fine. It was the fourth tubeless tape job I’ve done, and the first with the Flo tape that was apparently a little too wide for the Flo rim I did it on. After a few months riding on the first set of tires, there’s some warping in the top layer of tape, but the bottom layer seems to be holding fine - no leaks. Ugly AF, but I don’t see a practical reason to re-tape it… yet. Perhaps it’s just a matter of time?
I live in an apartment and use one of these. Sometimes though I use a CO2 cannister on a really stubborn to seat tyre.
They all loose a bit of air. I check pressure before each ride and always have to put a little in. Use them all regularly so no issues.
I leave my cross wheels setup, but rarely ride them over the summer. Before cross season, I change the sealant. It’s always still liquid, but often seems to have separated somewhat (there is some clear liquid on top). But, I live in the usually wet NW of England. Maybe in drier climates it’d dry out?
Regarding ugly tape - before I learned the right amount of stretch to put on the tape, I taped some wheels too losely, and the tape ended up with crinkles. Still sealent fine though.
So far I can only report positive experiences with Road tubeless.
Conti GP5000 ‘s’ tubeless went on my new Bontrager wheels reasonably easy…
Initial air loss overnight diminished once I’d ridden on them a few times.
Since then I’ve had 6 months of riding on mixed surfaces, including compacted gravel, loose shingle and various roads of very mixed condition and state of repair (UK riders will know what I mean).
Haven’t had any issues and ride comfort at the reduced pressure has been noticeably improved .
I just pasted my 1 year road tubeless anniversary And I got my first puncture yesterday. I didn’t hear or see anything but I noticed I’d lost a bunch of air out of my rear tire. Stopped to check and the tire was way low but did not appear to be leaking any more. I pumped back it up with a hand pump and finished the last 10 miles of my ride. Stoppage time was a leisurely 2 minutes but it could have been 30 seconds or less if I was in a hurry and had a co2 ready to go. The tire is holding air just fine today so I think I’m good to go. Love it!
I’m also running 15-20 psi less than I ran with tubes and the comfort improvement is huge. I’m loving tubeless.
Many here have had negative experiences with it. My experiences have been very good. But you need to put 1oz more than recommended. It’s currently a top 2 sealant for me.
Avoid, it useless, never dries out to fill even the tiniest of p’tures. I almost gave up on tubeless until I realised it was the problem. Google found a lot of other stories similar to mine. I’d get a tiny p’ture which never sealed. It would lose air gradually until I hit a small bump (cateye/ road stud) and that was enough to unseat the tyre.
Got it originally because it odd supposed to be CO2 friendly. It didn’t work all that well and turned into nasty slime in the tire. I tossed an almost full bottle into the garbage.
Going to give the Pirelli zero race tires a try. Might need to refresh some rim tape.
What size would you recommend for a 21mm internal tire?
So I have a half full bottle of Stan’s that has been sitting on the shelf for probably 10 months or so. It’s still liquid and white, though maybe a bit lumpy. Has a fairly strong ammonia odor. Is the stuff ok to use or should I dispose of it?
