Others did not, 2 articles on 2 different standards that don’t require anything that may not already exist in wheels that aren’t labeled tubeless does not state why it’s a risk. It says why these standards may reduce risks, but again not all tubeless labeled wheels follow these standards. Neither said don’t about non tubeless labeled rims.
The quote from the article doesn’t have anything to back it up either… because pressure is not an answer unless you back that up with what happens from the pressure and then show that pressure is then not an issue on systems labeled for tubeless… it very much is.
When googling and trying to find even one example of a problem with running tubeless all I could find was issues with stuff labeled tubeless. Or one interesting one where trek blamed a guy running tubes in his tubeless setup ( had the bontrager tubeless rim tape) as the cause of his failure. So according to trek don’t put tubes in tubeless equipment.
Someone else above said their wheel manufacturer said it was fine to run the non tubeless rims tubeless. And someone else is doing it. Another guy noted a failure of tubeless labeled system. No one seems to be able to provide actual evidence this is a don’t other than regurgitating things they can’t back up.
If the standard is so critical then we need to make sure we’re telling anyone with pre 2020 hardware don’t as well.
Key part missing from the discussion of standards, forgot I came across this before, it’s for off-road 700c, not road. Mavics is the only road specific one.
Telling you not to do something potentially dangerous might be considered helpful in some circles. But I’m not going to try and persuade you: you do you.
In my ongoing saga of road tubeless startup, I’m now up to three punctures on my rear tire Schwalbe Pro One TLE. These are on the same roads that I used to ride the GP5000 clinchers and rarely flatted. So far, not impressed with the Pro Ones as a daily rider, and perhaps I shouldn’t be as they’re a race tire, I suppose. I think I’ve done maybe 20 rides, cant be more than 6-800 miles or so on them to get those three punctures.
That said, Stans has done a good job sealing. I got a good size puncture from I don’t know what yesterday, Stans was able to seal it and hold about 40psi. When I aired up beyond that, the sealant let go, so I turned around and got back home with plenty of air to spare. Probably could’ve finished the last hour of my ride as it was, but opted to play it safe.
Came home, and did my first patch job with the KOM tool (believe these are bacon strips), and it’s holding up to 80psi. Haven’t ridden it yet, but will try it out tomorrow. The patch was super easy, so now I’d feel fine about doing it out on the road. (Also have a dynaplug tool that I carry on my MTB as another option I could try).
Ordered some regular Orange Seal that arrives today. Plan on riding the Schwalbes one more time then swapping over to my “preferred” training setup with Pirelli Cinturatos and Orange Seal. Hopefully I have a bit more luck avoiding punctures in the first place with these tires. Schwalbes will probably be repurposed to the TT bike when I set those wheels up tubeless.
Saw that on your Strava feed When you look at BicycleRollingResistance the Pro One TLE has essentially the same puncture rating as GP5000. But in my world the Pro One was more flat prone, for whatever reason, and I stopped riding them. I’m a heavier rider at ~90kg and the best thing I did to minimize flats, both with clinchers and tubeless, was to put a 32c tire on the rear.
It didn’t bother me cutting the ride short. I’m in the base prep phase so just getting my schedule down and riding the bike is fine. I got an hour in.
But yeah, not at all impressed by the Schwalbes. I avoided the GP5000 due to the fit issues, but I ride the clincher version on my race wheels and took a screw sideways into the tire, went all the way through. I pulled it out and I rode with that puncture for probably 2000 miles and never flatted (latex tubes no less!).
I’m putting a 28 on the back when I change the tires, 26F/28R will be my training setup. Still not convinced I want to swap all three wheelsets over to tubeless yet. Part of that is tubeless seems to do best when you ride it and at any given time I’m probably only riding one, but I’ll probably move my HED rim brakes (TT/Tri bike) over to tubeless as TT season approaches and I want to ride that bike more.
After 6 hours in the hot hot summer sun, I tried putting the GP5000 S TR size 30c on my tubeless wheelset (21mm internal). And once again it was basically impossible without extraordinary efforts. So if I did put them on, there is no plan B if a sidewall tear happens on the road. Anybody want some new 30x622 tires LOL?
GP5000 in 28c with tubes? No problem, pop right on. Same with Pirelli tires. And Specialized tires. I believe the S TR has a kevlar wire bead, and even though these are ‘easier to install’ vs the 5000 TL it hasn’t been that in practice for me on 4 different sets of wheels. This past weekend was my last and final attempt on these particular 5000 S TR tires, and I officially give up.
Black and I never pulled off the Herculean effort to get them mounted. I did use my tire jack this past weekend, and they simply are too tight for this wheelset. Sigh.
For what it’s worth, if you manage to get it installed somehow the bead will definitely stretch out over time. I had exactly the same concern with not only my 700x28 GP5000 TL but also some 700x40 Pirelli gravel tires. Both were an absolutely bear to get onto 22mm internal (road) and 24mm internal (gravel) rims. When I had to swap them out, they came off without any fuss.
Had an experience with 28c 5000 TL where I was able to do a roadside tube repair after a large sidewall cut. Was able to remount on the road. It was late October and 90F that day. Then temperatures dropped, and I was unable to ‘easily’ remount the tire on those same Enve 5.6 rims. In my garage. This past weekend I actually tried remounting those same 28c 5000 TL tires on these new rims, and same problem. No problem putting on Pirelli and Specialized, and taking them off.
I want to use the new Silca carbon fiber sealant, so being able to muscle on the tire with my thumbs seems like a good idea in addition to my comments about roadside repairs.
Yes, my roadside levers are Lezyne Power Lever XL which provide pretty awesome leverage. And my garage has the Koolstop Beadjack and for removal help the Vittoria tire pliers (part of the Air-Liner kit).
Just removed the Schwalbes, cleaned the wheels and stored the tires, mounted, seated, and sealed up the Pirellis in less than an hour. Quite a difference from my experience with the Schwalbes.
Mounted by hand, snug but not too tight. Seated without sealant through the valve using compressor inflator. Sealant in and reseated easily. No indications of any leaks.
That troublesome rear Schwalbe took half a day by itself and always needed a direct air blower chuck to seat.
Hopefully I’ve found my long term training setup: Pirelli Cinturato 26F/28R w/ Orange Seal.
I’ve been riding the Schwalbe pro ones for about 2-3 years now, never had an issue with punctures. Maybe the debris on your roads is different to here? I even have a set of 28mm Schwalbe one (not pro) on my other bike, that I use on gravel quite often. (90 miles the other day, of what I thought would be very nice gravel, but turned into a MTB route later on…).
My first tubeless tyre on the disc wheel was a Pro one, when it started to wear the sealant came into play often but on the whole I had no complaints. Based on my experience when I got a new set of Hunt wheels for the road bike which came with pro ones. I had no problems at first but then I got a speight of tiny p’tures causing the tyre to deflate slightly which eventually meant a bump such as a cateye (road stud) was enough to unseat the tyres. I almost gave up on tubeless until I realised the problem was not the tyre or the tubeless philosophy its self but the sealant (avoid Finish Line sealant) and I had no problem with the pro ones once I changed sealant other than the occasional having to wipe sealant of the frame when they were wearing out
The last time I needed a tubeless tyre for the disc wheel in a hurry (the side wall of a conti 5000tl was ripped) all the lbs had in stock was a pro one and touch wood that has been reliable in racing and training. I don’t know how many miles its done but so far none of the sealant spray has emerged. When it does it’ll be a sign it needs replacing but I wouldn’t really worry if thats all I could get in future.
When you look at BicycleRollingResistance the Pro One TLE has essentially the same puncture rating as GP5000. But in my world the Pro One was more flat prone, for whatever reason, and I stopped riding them. I’m a heavier rider at ~90kg and the best thing I did to minimize flats, both with clinchers and tubeless, was to put a 32c tire on the rear.
