A worn jockey wheel can jump a tooth every few rotations, you’d see the cage snatch at the same time. Might be that.
This only happens when I ride my disc. I tried adjusting the limit screw and rode outside this morning…still happening. Can someone tell me what to do? This doesn’t happen on my other wheel set. You can see the jockey wheel jumps, but only in the smallest cog
Seems to happen once a chain revolution. Seems like you’ve got enough space between the pulley and cog. Chain seems stable on the 11t.
Get a pic of the master link or the pinned link or whatever. Sideways and from the top.
It could also be a stiff link. Try it by turning the crank by hand slow. See if there’s a link that won’t seat the same as the others.
Maybe try adding a touch of b-tension screw.
Does it make a difference if I say this only happens on my disc wheel and it doesn’t happen on my normal everyday wheel set?
It could be that’s a dead spot in your pedal stroke and there’s some drag on your free hub. In the little cog, there’s enough leverage to kick the chain up. Try loosening your end cap a touch
Your 11t might not be sitting on the free hub right. Try removing and reinstalling the cassette or swapping cassettes.
I had an annoying chain skip issue on a cassette once - it was skipping once per revolution of a specific sprocket.
Some combination of various tolerances and clearances in the drivetrain system stacked, causing the the chain to momentarily skip when going onto a specific tooth on that sprocket.
It was one of the specially shaped teeth on the sprocket (I believe the shapes are designed so the chain can shift) - on this example pic, it would be the one on the smallest cog, right next to the “JAPAN VIA” marking on the lockring.
I’m not sure if you’ve tried this but from this angle, it looks to me like the rear derailleur could use a couple of clicks of adjustment (hold junction box button for 2 seconds until solid red light, give the small paddle shifter on right 2 or 3 clicks, press and hold junction box button for a few seconds until the red light goes out). Also could be complicated by a rear derailleur slightly out of alignment (even though it looks pretty good from this angle).
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Someone else mentioned this but what type of master link do you have? If I mount my Wipperman Connex quicklink upside down it does this on the 11t cog, it must not have enough to ‘grab’ onto to remain in connection.
I actually have a wipperman chain with the connex quick connect. It doesn’t do this with every cassette/wheel I use though. I was doing some digging and read that sometimes the cassette lock ring is a little too thick and that can cause the chain to jump on the smallest cog. That might make sense, considering:
It only happens on my disc wheel, and I only use my disc wheel/cassette for races. It doesn’t happen on my regular wheeler with an older cassette that might have the lock ring worn down a bit from more frequent use…
Not sure if that’s what is going on though. I don’t believe the chain is backwards, I haven’t taken it off since I got the bike.
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The lock ring or lockring washer hitting the master link is a possible option. The wipperman quicklink is pretty thick. Make sure it is orientated right also
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I tried indexing and adjusting the high limit, but when I change the indexing it screws up the rest of my shifting in the middle cogs…
Have you put an alignment gauge on the hanger? It doesn’t look out from the video perspective but it would be the next thing I’d check on my bike. From the video, it wouldn’t think the high limit screw is the cause. I can see the derailleur do its programed over-shift and settle back to its indexed position.
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Every wheel has subtly different free hub position so unless it’s an identical wheel, you always need to adjust the limit screws when you swap wheel sets (tho this may be very minimal). The shifting distances are preset (one shift moves it ‘x’ mm, so it’s entirely based on the starting point - ie lower limit).
Prob unlikely, but maybe your wheel isn’t on firmly. If I was you, I’d go thru the following:
- ensure cassette is on and properly torqued
- ensure wheel is on bike securely and QR lever is tight
- set lower limit screw correctly to lowest cog
- shift through and ensure top limit screw is correct
If these fail to solve your problem, you might have an issue w hanger alignment, tho this is unlikely bc it should be visibly noticeable and there should be skipping on at least one other gear (basically you setting lower limit should make it aligned w the bent hanger and push you skipping issue to a different part of the cassette)
Last step would be to buy or try a new cassette. Your technically supposed to run chains, cassettes, and chain rings together, tho I never practice this closely and rarely have issue.
Is everything (including both cassettes, chain and quick link) definitely 11 speed? It’s looking a lot like when I put a 10s link on an 11s chain… That or a stiff link
It’s the chain and wheel from the manufacturer. I just put a new cassette on a few weeks ago because I needed more gearing for St. George, but the cassette I had from the manufacturer did the same thing.
Hope you get it sorted before St George, good luck at the race. If you need more gearing you might not be in the big dog at the front and little cog at the back much…
Update, I haven’t done this yet but slowtwitch recommended to check the quick link (connex) to make sure it’s not upside down. It’s supposed to look like a frown 
and not a smile 
. Mine looks to be upside down, so I’ll flip over the link and see if it helps 
Gonna be the chain… i had a similar mystery issue with my bike for while
I’m sure the original poster’s issue is solved now but for future searchers…
I had the same issue. Annoying click each chain revolution. Thought it was the chain master link, replaced that, things seemed to get better. Then got worse again. Only in certain gears, though. I replaced my cassette today and it was absolutely awful. Chain stretch, right? Yes but no. No significant wear if I measured a section of chain not including the master. Well over 1/16" if I measured a section including the master; the entire issue was there. When it rolled onto a cog the cog would compress it, when it came off it would open back up. If there was enough tension, that would make an audible and palpable click. Replacing the master didn’t help, so I removed the two links to either side of it, spliced in the section of chain I removed to shorten it when installing it, and re-installed a new master. Works now. I guess the master link at some point got jammed and that wore away the links it was attached to.
(I’m sure you’re not supposed to splice new sections of chain into a used chain, but meh, I don’t have a chain laying around, and a slightly unevenly worn chain beats one with a bad link any day)