Nah, that’s also common because you’re not getting that artificial power smoothing. Ultimately, you’re getting the same workout regardless of whether the line is perfectly smooth or choppy. Don’t sweat that.
With the method I outlined above, you’ll get that artificial smoothness again, but if you don’t like it, you can disable “Erg Power Smoothing” in the Wahoo app for a more realistic look. I personally just run my Garmin alongside TR so I can glance at my “actual power” every once in a while.
Fair point, I’ve noticed huge temperature differences in my KICKR before and after use. Before use it’ll be at room temp (usually around 20ºC) and after a session it often above 40ºC. That has to make a difference…
You can’t assume this stuff if you want the most accurate readings. I’ve only had indoor power for the last three years. I just got a Stages. On first outing to do a 20 minute FTP I struggled and power was way down.
I late found that calibrating after 10 minutes of riding makes a large difference. Stages says in their manual that there is temperature compensation and they also say to calibrate every use for best performance. From my experience the later is required. It could be that the temperature differential between inside and outside is too great for the compensation.
Bottom line, if you are trying to compare do everything right, warm them up, calibrate and then see how far off they are.
Yeah, you have to calibrate a Stages on every ride. But when you calibrate shouldn’t matter that much. I’ve been riding a Stages for years and can’t say that when I calibrate it has made a big difference.
Tried that and my Kickr 2017 wheel-off didn’t always using the ANT+ power meter. Did maybe 30 rides and compared to Garmin recording. Gave it a chance and couldn’t trust it. One reason I went back to PowerMatch.
“smoother, more artificial experience” is what I found. Smoother? Yes. Have never finished an outdoor training session or hard group ride and said “if only the power was smoother” Power fluctuates when riding outside. Train more like you ride outside, don’t train to make prettier graphs. Your FTP is an estimate, zones are estimates with fuzzy endpoints, and your body isn’t a robot. Something to think about
I haven’t really tested this since I got my Core, but I had lots of issues when I had a Snap and this is what fixed it. So I’ve been using it ever since. It works well for me. PowerMatch is fine too, but I like the native option just a bit better.
Yeah Snap (tire) and Core (no tire, direct-drive) will have different experiences. What I found is that if Kickr fails to connect to ANT+ power meter, you won’t know unless also recording with bike computer and comparing after. And I want a single source of power truth for inside and outside. And TR’s PowerMatch reliably delivers on that.
And then the whole “make it more like riding outside” that is personal opinion and based on coaches always telling us to make training more like our event.
At the moment, the only way to get L+R total power from your Powertap P1 pedals is to pair via ANT+. When paired via ANT+, we capture power readings from both the left and right pedals, but when paired via Bluetooth, we can only take the left pedal power and double it.
We hope to improve on this in the future by supporting L+R power via Bluetooth, however, I do not have an ETA at this time.
I have the exact same setup (kickr core and 4iiii) and I went through the same experience… power meter read 20watts lower.
Having tested and since trained using powermatch these issues have been sorted. To stop the power spiking quite so badly try using the small front chainring. The slower flywheel speed seems to help powermatch although it does make for a different training experience as you have much less inertia from the flywheel.