Pulled the trigger on one after watching the GPLama video. I can live with the power inaccuracy for the way I intend to use it (even if they can’t fix it in software).
It is now sold out in both Europe and the US though. I guess the might have underestimated demand a bit!
Per the DCR article comments sections, they should have stock again next week.
@Kentish_Man Also check out the used market. There seem to be a lot of trainers for sale post-pandemic.
That’s a good idea, I never thought about that.
I was riding on a dumb trainer, no powermeter using virtual power, and the JetBlack Volt V1 with its accuracy issues was still a massive upgrade for me. The Zwift Hub and Volt V2 will sell like hotcakes at this pricepoint to the vast majority of cyclists like me who don’t have a powermeter.
I was also curious about the flattop chains, because in the main picture on their product page, the picture is of someone using… a flattop chain. I was actually afraid that the supplied cassette was going to be “SRAM-only” because of the picture. Would have a been a weird choice for sure!
I guess Zwift wants us to ignore how the chain doesn’t correctly mesh with the cassette, and not shift? Reminds me of the time that, without thinking, put a bike with 8 speed chain onto my Kickr with an 11 speed cassette. I guess it could have worked, for a while, but clearly something was wrong and I bought an 8 speed cassette to fix it.
Apparently they are running with Horseshoes & Hand Grenades rules (close counts) 
For those that care, this is a nice dive into the real differences and why mixing Flattop chains and all the prior chain & tooth designs is not ideal:
Key specs of interest:
Is there anyone who has one who could let me know the width of the rear most support foot?
You’re a good man Shane.
Thats great thank you! Considering it as a replacement for my Elite Direto that now seems to be very noisy.
I’m never one to talk someone out of purchasing bike stuff…but if you contact Elite support they’re pretty good at sending new parts if necessary (even outside of warranty) or walking you thru fixing the trainer.
Yup. I posted earlier in the thread… bought Monday October 3rd (first day it was on sale.). It was on my doorstep at noon on Friday October 7th. Random notes about it:
I obviously can’t speak to reliability or anything long-term, but so far I’m quite happy with my Zwift Hub. The DCRainmaker/GPLama reviews were spot on.
yup. spacer was in the parts bag. didn’t dawn on me that it was the source of the shifting issue until after i had already adjusted the limit screws on the rear derailleur. the documentation (which was quite good in general) was silent about the possible need to install the spacer if your previous wheel/hub/cassette had one. i think their install video only mentioned derailleur cable tension, which is irrelevant if the limit screws don’t match the cassette position.
not a big deal for me because the bike on my zwift hub is used only for indoor training, and i had no problem adjusting my derailleur. but i have to think some folks will get bit by the same issue. the zwift hub setup is easy and well-documented, but folks coming from a 10-speed-with-spacer setup will need to know to install the spacer (no way to know from the install docs, and requires tools) or they will need to adjust their limit screws (also not in the install docs requires basic wrenching skills.)
Dont they all come setup for 11 speed by default now therefore requiring the fitting of the spacer when using the old 10 speed cassette?
Plus don’t you order the zwift hub with the cassette you plan on using pre-fitted?
if the spacer is required for 10s, then having the cassette “pre-installed” without it is a huge oversight. users will have to remove the cassette, install the spacer, then reinstall the cassette. which is more work than having it come not installed, and requires tools. not nearly as “plug and play” as Zwift is promoting.
i’ll look tomorrow, but i don’t think the cassette has any lateral play in it, so the spacer shouldn’t be mandatory. i could be totally wrong about that.
[EDIT: just looked at it, and my cassette is firmly in place, so i’m just going to leave it as-is, with the provided spacer in my parts bin and my rear derailleur adjusted to work with the Zwift Hub instead of my wheels]
If theyve missed fitting the spacer prior to shipping with a 10 speed cassette thats a big gap in their QA.
I have a 3 year old Elite Direto (the original model) which is getting a bit tired. It got hammered during covid and I prob still put 5 hours a week on it. Ive replaced a few bits through its life and now it has a swueaky noise.
Debating if it would be worth getting a Zwift hub? It’s the same accuracy and has slightly better max wattage (not that I am that bothered or ever going to reach it!). The big thing for me would be a noise improvement as it is in the lounge.
It has been said before, but it bears repeating….get an H3 from Saris while they are blowing them out. You can get an H3 for less than a Zwift Hub….and it is a better trainer. Check the H3 thread for the code.
I don’t think that is an option in the UK unfortunately.
