Had my bike for about three years. All is/was fine till I tried to adjust the bar height. The quick release wasn’t holding the bar to the set height. Reached out to wahoo and tried their ‘fix’ however it didn’t work. Was given the option to use a bold in place of quick release but this was not acceptable to me. For the price of the product I felt it should work as intended. The bike was out of warranty so replaced with refurbished unit.
Hello Kickr Bike owners,
I’m hoping someone can help clarify an issue I’m having with replicating my road bike fit on my Kickr Bike. I believe I might be missing something in my setup process.
On my road bike (a size 58 Scott Addict), I measured the seat setback from the bottom bracket to the saddle clamp, which came out to about 24cm. However, on the Kickr Bike, I can’t seem to adjust the setback to more than 18cm. Following the fit recommendations in the app, I end up even closer to the bottom bracket, which positions me about 8cm more forward than on my road bike.
This discrepancy is confusing, and I’m unsure why I can’t replicate the fit of my road bike. As I seem to be the only one with this issue, the problem must be me 
… Has anyone experienced a similar issue or have any insights on how to resolve this? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
I have my saddle clamp also roughly at 24cm set back from the BB. I’m definitely not at the limit of the setback setting either (I’m roughly at 7,5cm on the indicator on the Kickr-frame) so I’m not quite sure what is going wrong for you…
The numbers on the Kickr-frame are not the real set-back value, maybe that’s what going wrong?
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I have it at the maximum and that gives me the 18cm setback. Your numbers make more sense and fall more in line to what the Kickr recommendations are. Any clue where I might be wrong 
?!
On the second picture I would say it’s more 21/22cm (not 18 I measured first) but still far away from the 24 I would need.
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It looks like you don’t have your Kickr @ 0% tilt but pointing down signicantly. Make sure to put it a 0% tilt first. (The kickr top tube should then be sloping down like a regular bike).
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I have a quick question that you may have covered but is the KICKR set to level? What I mean is have you double-tapped the lock button before setting everything? This happened to me and I could not reconcile my fit numbers to the bike. I am 6’ and ride a 56 or 58 cm bike. I ended up taking it to my bike fitter and the first thing he did when he set it on the ground was ensure the bike was reading 0. It does not look level necessarily but the tilt will read level. Sorry if this has been covered. I jumped on the reply since it sounded so similar to my problem.
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Not a long-term review but I did make the mistake of purchasing a refurbished Kickr Bike V1 from Wahoo directly.
Day one.
Handlebar and seat post slipping
Day 3
Shifters fail.
Day 4
New handlebars are sent via Wahoo yet to arrive.
Day 5
Bolt to replace quick release on handlebars doesn’t hold them in place.
I have had enough and just asked to return the bike.
I appreciate the help Wahoo have given me but I feel its something they could manage better and are fully aware of issues. They must just ship each bike and then brace themselves for the support tickets.
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At least for v1, which I have, their clamp design for the seatpost and handlebar is just stupid. I’ve had no other issues with the bike but the clamps are bad
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I totally agree. I expected maybe some issues with the tilt or shifters.
But their option of a bolt to fix the handlebars sort of makes the flexible nature of the bike a moot point. My wife would like to use this too at some point
The Zwift Ride looks like a better option.
Good info. I actually just had my bars slide down very slowly (so much so. didn’t notice it until I was just checking them). I’ve had no issues with seat post clamp. Mine was a new V1 on sale. I’ll do a good check on everything today I suppose.
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Ideally, they would offer some form of plastic shim that could slide in with the seat post.
I am just not willing to troubleshoot this anymore I managed 2 hours of total use.
I ended up putting a 35mm spacer (made from PVC tubing) between the stem and the clamp to prevent any additional slip. Wahoo decided to make the stem non-standard to the point that a standard stem spacer does not fit.
My seat post really doesn’t slip once I added grip paste and tightened the hell out of the clamp.
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Totally agree. The bike has been great other than the clamp system. So bad.
I check it every couple rides and it’s always moved a bit. I’ve been too lazy to go to the hardware store and get and better solution.
Update on the Handlebars, the new set arrived and now along with the Bolt instead of quick release I have working shifters and stem that doesnt slip.
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After a quick inspection. My seatpost is solid. My bars are all the way down so they cannot move any further at the moment.
My only complaints thus far have been with the bar tape and shifter bolts. I swapped my bars and the tape was a nightmare to remove. The bolts on the shifters were way over- torqued and almost impossible to loosen.
I went through a few sets of new bars and refurb bikes. I don’t know why Wahoo haven’t come out with either a shifter re-design, or a separate bar/shifter only setup ala the barr/plays on the new Zwift bike yoke. Make it compatible with Kickr trainers and the bike and stop all the warranty/support issues that the existing shifters seem to cause.
I suspect humidity/sweat getting into the shifters is the main killer. The buttons seem quite exposed under the rubber cover on the hoods
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After a bit more slipping, I talked to Wahoo, and they’re setting up a return for the bike.
I wish things had gone better, but I just wasn’t okay with having so many issues right from the start, especially since Wahoo knew about these problems before shipping it. They should include a shim for the handlebars to help with this and maybe even a nut and bolt if needed as a last resort.
Now, I’m thinking about getting either a Kickr Move or Kickr 6.
Does anyone here have any experience comparing power readings of the KICKR Bike V1 to a pedal power meter (I have Rally XC 200s)?
I am seeing a pretty consistent difference between what my Rally Pedals are reporting (using them with TR PowerMatch on KICKER Bike) and what the KICKR Bike tells Zwift it’s actually doing. Thus far it’s around 5% on average but in many cases it’s just 9-10 watts throughout the ride. So the KICKR Bike reports a pretty consistently higher power than my Rally Pedals are showing on Trainer Road & my Garmin Edge. I’m assuming it’s normal. I am trying to just figure how to make them “match” and just leave them on my bike all the time and use the KICKR reported power for training.
Thanks for any insight.
Ok, I’m going to buy a Kickr Bike. My question is whether I should get the V2 or the Shift. First related question is about Direct Connect and Race Mode. What does direct connect actually do and why is it useful? And second, if both bikes have direct connect, why doesn’t the Shift have Race Mode? Is it just a missing feature to get people to buy the V2 or is there a hardware problem preventing it? Also, is Race Mode actually useful? That’s really the big feature for me giving me hesitation. Otherwise I’d just get the shift. Tilt isn’t that appealing. The max watt I will never reach. The Shift is silent according to reviews which is nice. I do race Zwift a fair bit over the winter, so is that feature worth it for the V2?
Edit: Also, I read a review of the Shift that said the flywheel reacts differently than the v2 or any of the Kickr trainers. Almost as if the bike was being “braked” so that you don’t get the same flywheel feeling like you would with other Kickr devices. They described it as less of a push when you pedaling at high speeds and almost feels that when you stop pedaling, the flywheel stops a lot faster. Can anybody speak of this from experience?