Not true. Keep trying.
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Did both riders have calibrated power meters or was it off strava power?
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Both of us have power meters
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Lots of answers to your question have been given. The more you spend the lighter the bike, the better the components…all little things that will add to having the ability to going faster. The biggest boost to speed is more than likely time and effort. Work on core you can hold aero position longer. Work on fitness and you will go faster. Bike will give you a temporary bump but you still have to put in more effort to get faster.
I had a 2k bike and went to a 6k bike. I am faster but that is do to better fitness and more comfort on the bike. Would I buy a more expensive bike again…yes the change I made was significant for me more on the comfort level but the psychological boost was amazing from a bike that just seemed to be that bit lighter and snappier that I felt I could go a lot faster on it. Its all in the head.
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Also weight, conditions etc. So much at play here…
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Roughly same height and weight and conditions were identical since we were out on the road at nearly the same time, really it’s as close to an apples to apples comparison as this situation can be
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Except not really, because the normalised power could have been distributed differently in intensity over the course.
My new bike got a lot faster after I trained all year.
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I made a promise to my 7 year old ‘entry level’ tri bike that I won’t upgrade her while we’re still crushing people on superbikes together!
But I think once we start thinking about upgrading, we cyclists rarely change our minds!
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TCR is a great all round race bike but the emphasis is race bike.
Like above if you just want to feel a bit quicker setup and wheels and other aero options will make a bigger difference.
I loved my TCRs, I started my proper racing (long ago) on a really basic Sora equipped TCR (still kicked butt) and then upgraded to another TCR, some of you may remember the ONCE TCRs. I raced at speeds on that I have never matched since, okay I’m 20 years older too
(edit - that’s not me in the pic 
)
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There are a lot of really good replies in this chain including the one from mcalista but some data points are missing to give you the most accurate response. Also the good folks at Trainer Road did a really good session at the specialized wind tunnel and I’d encourage you to look at that video as well as the others by Specialized (win tunnel series) and some other about buying speed. The variables missing include what your power levels are, the type of terrain you ride on (mountains, hills, flat etc) where weight may be a factor including you and your bike combined weight if you are climbing, how much you have already addressed other lower cost options like your clothing fit, position, aero bars if possible, tire choice, and what kind of speeds you are riding at; and finally to answer your question…the bike/wheels. SO according to Specialized the speed gains from Aero wheels are about the same as an aero frame and combining the two will have a greater effect primarily on flat or downhill stretches with a greater effect the higher the speed. The Cannondale systemsix is claimed to improve speed and aero drag up to a 6% incline…more if you have high power output…lower with less. Their white paper is worth reading. My recommendation would be to improve your position and clothes, consider aero bars if applicable and consider upgrading to more aero wheels… Longer term look for a good lower cost aero frame like the Caynon’s. But the answer for me when I did this (going to a more aero bike and set up… i.e. a full higher end aero bike without aero bars with some position and clothing/helmet modifications) was about a .25-1 mph gain depending on the amount of climbing on the route and the average speed of the section. So for me I was able to buy some speed but there are a lot of things to work on first as they will almost certainly carry over when you go full aero and be a lot less costly.
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I’m a noob so take everything I say with a squirt of grease.
I went faster with a new and more expensive bike. It depends on the bike you start with, what you’re trying to do on the bike, and the new bike you end up with. All that after fitness, of course.
My first bike was a used, steel framed Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT). Then I bought a new carbon Specialized Roubaix Comp (recently adding an ENVE 5.6-wheel set). I go much faster.
- LHT = $1,100 investment.
- Roubaix = $6,200+ investment.
At nearly half the weight, better components, and geometry built for speed I simply went faster on the Roubaix. My training is about the same but with more quality riding (enter TR, etc.). I almost never go to the drops with the new bike (neck thing) but am working on it. In other words, my rotten upright position has hardly changed. I’ve lost some weight over time.
When I got the LHT 4 years ago I was new to cycling and did not know what I wanted to do with it. Eventually, attacking segments between 1 min and 30 mins (mostly 2-10) is what I found enjoyable and motivating. The LHT was holding me back and I could feel it, especially on short stuff. The bike upgrade absolutely helped with those segments. And it’s a pleasure to ride. That’s something.
Early on, with the LHT I thought 17mph for 15 miles was hard. Granted, I was still new. Now I “comfortably” average 18-20mph for a century; something I once thought was impossible. My short efforts still hurt but are way faster. Again, I train 4-5 days per week, 5k per year, and with more quality workouts. I’m old so I need all the help I can get, and the new bike was everything it promised to be. Having said that, at this point I doubt even “better” bikes will make me any faster because I’ve hit that threshold where the equipment will provide diminishing returns. The only thing that will make me faster now is better training or a time machine.
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I didn’t read all the responses, so, some of this may be redundant. The short answer is, as always, it depends. My personal opinion is, unless you are racing, moving from a Defy to a TCR probably won’t get a huge gain beyond the satisfaction of riding a nicer bike. It’s kind of like asking which is faster for your daily commute to work, a Honda Civic or a Honda Accord? On public roads and regular driving, you’re going to make it to your final destination in about the same amount of time. If you are riding solo recreationally, watts are watts and speed is irrelevant.
“Faster” is a tough question without knowing when you want it to be faster. The real question is, are you racing and, if so, what are your limitations?
If you just want to be generally faster in a race, start with a Castelli SanRemo suit and Specialized Evade helmet. Next, make sure you have a good set of race tires. Those three changes will probably make the biggest change for <$1k (and will make you faster regardless of the bike you own. If you are serious about training, being able follow a structured program and train with power inside and out is the next most important piece of equipment to make you faster. Assioma pedals are a good choice because they are inexpensive and are interchangeable one whatever bike you are riding.
If you are adamant about upgrading your current bike, you pretty much have to work backward from what you are trying to accomplish and what limitations you are encountering and how that bike - and what specifically about that bike - is holding you back. If you can’t point out exactly why you want to upgrade something and quantify the reason you want to do it, then, it doesn’t matter.
If you’re club riding and not racing - upgrades are just going to be cosmetic. If you’ve got a bunch of money and want to ride nice stuff, go for it.
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I am pretty much set on buying a Cannondale CAAD 13 disc next year.
The only thing I haven’t decided yet is going for the ultegra version or the 105 version.
Biggest difference between the two (apart from the groupset) are the rims and the 800 EUR price difference.
I am actually thinking of getting the 105 version, buying better rims and a power meter or is there that much difference between 105 and ultegra groupset?
I don’t race, but do enjoy challenging rides and am planning on doing more climbing next year.
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105 and a power meter is a way better investment imo
the drivetrain is all wear parts at the end of the day
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I would say buy the best spec you can afford from a retailer that will support your service or warranty… if you adding power meters then of course take that into your budget… there is nothing like having something you enjoy riding to put a smile on your face… the debate around not deserving or wont make a difference is irrelevant, its the mind that needs to be happy, then you will train and ride those challenges and get stronger and feel happier… simples 
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In terms of functionally the two groupsets will be indistinguishable. I concur, the better idea is to get the 105-equipped bike and then get a power meter and new wheels.
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Exactly. The difference in wheels probably will be important, both in flex and weight. If buying from a shop, I’d try to argue a wheel swap/upgrade at purchse time; otherwise, eBay/Craiglist the existing wheels while you buy new/better ones.
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What was your impression of the propel vs the TCR? I am looking at getting a new bike but leaning toward the propel for the aero advantages.
My impression was the TCR was the better bike.
I rode them back to back twice each and there wasn’t a great deal in it to be honest.
Both had the same carbon slr wheelset (I think the Propel had a slightly bigger 60mm rear) and I really believe its those wheels that make the difference over my old Defy rather than the aero tubes or bars on the Propel.
In the end I reckon for 95% of real world riding you’ll feel the benefit of the TCR’s 1kg lighter frame over the small aero advantage of the Propel. I know I did.