Hi there!
I’ve got a pair of assioma favero duo that I usually change between mtb and road bikes for the sake of metrics consistency but… I don’t know how many N.m apply… does anyone know a range or something?
Thanks in advance!
Jose
Indoor workouts - 20 - 25 Nm
Outdoor 30-36 Nm ( Most of the time climbing…)
Here is some guidance from Look on their Keos: 40Nm! I never use that amount of torque. Guess this is one of those questions with an answer which depends on things, like how much you weigh.
Oh! Sorry i under too it total y wrong🤪
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Make sure you do two things:
- Just get the pedals finger tight and make sure that there is clearance between the plastic pod and the crank arm. If not, remove the pedal and add another pedal washer. If you tighten the pedal tightly with the plastic contacting, you may ruin your power meter.
- Grease the pedal threads. If you don’t then you will have a lot of difficulty to remove the pedals.
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Thanks a los for your replies! It’s really good to have you guys!
I hand tighten mine to like 12-15nM and keep fresh grease on the threads… Really easy to get them off and I don’t think I’ve ever heard of anyone losing a pedal. Any more torque and I think you’re just adding unnecessary wear to the spindle threads. I switch mine between my trainer and road rig, so I try to preserve them best I can. Yesterday’s ride involved a few 1100W 10 sec efforts and they seem to be doing fine!
If your pedals have titanium spindles, is it best to use nickel anti-seize instead of silicone grease?
Yes, use anti-seize. I don’t know of any silicone grease I would use on pedal threads, Ti or otherwise. It’s generally not a lubricating grease intended for metal on metal purposes, but rather for rubber or plastic seals.
Sorry, I meant to say lithium grease as that is what I have.
I will pick up some nickel anti-seize.
Can that be used for steel and aluminum bolts or is it primarily for titanium?
Can be used on any metal. The drawback with anti seize is the powdered metal makes any smears show up like day glo under a black light.
As far as how tight. All the pedals I have used over the years have been tightened to snug. Just past finger tight. Never had one come loose. Even with spacers. They are threaded so they spin in the tightening direction.
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I agree with this completely. I had a shop owner prove this to me. Thread on finger tight and ride around block. After that tools are required to remove. Just snug with a wrench after finger tight and they will not come loose.
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There is a torque spec for a reason. I have seen where pedals that were insufficiently tightened wallowed out the threads on the crank arm necessitating its replacement. The handedness of the threads is there to help ensure they don’t unthread while riding should the be insufficiently tightened. It won’t guarantee that they become sufficiently tight.
If your pedal bearings aren’t in the best shape, e.g. they have non-negligible drag, the pedals can loosen rather than tighten. A pedal bearing can go bad at any time.
If you have a pedal based power meter they won’t read correctly until you tighten them/ they finish self tightening and you do a sprint on them.
So just go ahead and torque your pedals decently.
Reckon one Newton per pair of pedals. Otherwise, they’ll get into each other’s way.
If you have two Newtons, they could ride a tandem.