As @Power13 wrote, I wouldn’t use the numbers for e. g. Rohloff or Alfine hubs and apply them to a 2x gear hub. It is my understanding as well that it only engages a gear when it reduces the gearing 0.7x.
I cannot claim I did the math, but I am sure Campanearts‘ team has. It sounds like an interesting experiment to be honest. The prospect of being able to shift at up to 1,000 W seems great, too. In principle, why not use a setup like that for road stages?
Yesterday I banged out my first fast 100% road ride on my Open since swapping from GRX Di2 2x11 (50/34 with 11-34) over to Sram Force XPLR 1x12 (44t with 10-44). This ride absolutely sealed the deal for me and confirmed that the swap was the right move. My biggest worry was gear jumps at speed, but yesterday I set a 2hr power PR zooming at 255w and ~21mph and was not at all bothered by the gearing.
The simplicity and aesthetic of 1x is what I like the most. Not having to worry at all about a front shift when putting down power is also super nice, the XPLR mech shifts great under load so I never worry about shifting at a bad time.
As a whole, super happy with my decision to ditch the front mech. If I have one complaint about the XPLR setup it’s that the derailleur does not have a cage lock button like Eagle does, so removing/installing a rear wheel is a pain.
%. I wonder why this was left off the design table, it’s really annoying.
Yup, same for the WIDE rear derailleur. 
I told my partner it was a great deal because I didn’t have to pay for the front derailleur!
Or she could have won by more!
2x implies twice as fast as 1x 
My mate’s new Lauf 1x has what I think is a chaincatcher but it a bit remote and looks more like a bottle opener 
Edit it is a bottle opener 
This is an important one for the rowdy Icelanders who designed the bike. They figured that most True Grit buyers are going to prefer the simplicity of 1x drivetrains, but they didn’t want to ignore the double crankset. (Even though they did ignore cable routing to a front derailleur. A 2x setup only works because of eTap’s wireless front derailleur.) So 1x riders get an integrated Lauf-branded direct-mount bottle opener, to make post ride imbibing quick & easy.
It IS a bottle opener, but it has a design flaw in that whatever you are opening may go on your chain. 
What do you mean by looks like a bottle opener, it is a bottle opener 
Yip, read the whole of the post
I know, you’ve edited it. But I still thought it’d be fun to reply.
Tip the bike not the bottle when opening.
How many watts penalty is that?
I’m looking to do this exact upgrade and can’t decide between 1x or 2x sram force. Looks like you have a 44t wolf tooth ring which is the exact one I also was looking at that would fit my 110bcd 5bolt praxis crank.
Currently have it setup with a CX oriented stock 40t and 11-32 which sucks for any riding at speed. So perhaps I would get the xplr rear mech and be able to swap between the 44t and 10-44 for gravel/road to a 40t and 10-36/33 for CX in the fall.
A 1x setup with a 10–44 cassette will give you slightly more range than a 50/34 coupled to a 11-32 cassette. If you mate the 10–44 cassette to a 44-tooth chainring, you’ll have a gear (44:10 = 4.40) that is quite close to a 50:11 = 4.55. I don’t know about you, but even on a road bike, I typically did not use the 11-tooth cog unless I was going downhill. Even at 50 km/h, I was in 50:13. My aero road bike has a 42-tooth chainring.
On a gravel bike, I doubt you’ll need to be in that hard a gear. A 40-tooth chainring might even be enough. At 90 rpm, you’d be going 48 km/h, and 90 rpm is far from spinning out.
That seems like a good call. I was actually initially thinking of picking up the 10-36 cassette to run on road wheels for routes that I know are going to be super flat, just to tighten up gear jumps, but don’t think I’ll need to do that actually.
Not sure where you race (and I am NOT a cross racer, mud is 
) but based on what I know from following the race scene, 1x seems the way to go. Add to that the fact that lots of folks claim to have issues with the SRAM front mech, I think the decision stands out clearly
I have a 10–36 cassette coupled to a 42-tooth chainring on my road bike. It feels identical to SRAM’s 11–32 cassette coupled to a 50-tooth chainring where you trade the 11-tooth cog for a 36-tooth cog. If I were doing longer, mellower rides (i. e. at endurance power) or lived in the alps, I might even get a smaller chainring.
I have proper mountains nearby, and the setup is completely fine for me. Ideally, I’d want another climbing gear for the one super long climb (think 1,000+ meters of elevation in one go), but for everything else, it is perfect. If you live in flatter terrain, the 10–33 cassette might even be enough.
this is loosly related to the topic at hand but I’ll post it anyway because I found the video interesting and informative: Warning, Hambini Video A TOTAL FLOP in the making? | Classified Powershift HUB | REAMING - YouTube
