That certainly seems like its your issue then (at least in MY small brain). If you are going downhill in the small chain ring, there’s no (or very little) torque on the crankset/PM to be read…
Try doing that same route again, but this time on the downhill, shift up into the large chainring ( i assume you are running 2x up front… if not shift into a bigger gear/smaller cog on the cassette) and see what you get for a reading. That would be my suggestion BEFORE reaching out to Power2Max…
However, depending on the descent angle of the road, you could really possibly be pedaling and putting out little to no power. If it all looks good except for that small interval, it’s hard to believe that the power meter would blow something so well in the middle of doing everything else well. There are some hills that are steep enough that in smalls-smalls, I could crank out 100 rm, and still be pushing pitiful power, yet have massive speed.
So, what does your speed look like in that interval? And also if a power meter allows for calibration and offsets that you can do, like mines does; I do it every time I ride with it. It makes sure (hopefully) that things are ;accurate’, but also that everything is woke, and ready to work.
Include your speed from the same ride you posted here?
All Power2Max power meters are automatically zero adjusting; just get on your bike and ride; the power meter manages calibration by itself. The calibration factor of 110 is just a value of the offset to zero and provide no meaningful information to you as a user.
Get the .fit file and look inside (sauce for strava extension is an easy way to look at the data) if there is power data
My Stages also show some ‘data’ after calibration/zero reset, and I thought it might be important and screen shot it, but it seems meaningless to mere mortals and I stopped doing it. I’m sure the numbers mean something to someone, what matters is that the calibration succeeds.
