Stigmata!
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I’m down to one bike except my tt rig. Super X, it does everything you could ever want. The picture shows it in commuting mode. Have a set of schwalbe G ones for everyday use and a set of Gravelkings sk for heavier duty gravel. I will probably get some 32mm Conti 5000tl’s for extended road use.
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What fenders are those? Are they Quick Release?
I keep coming back to the Ribble 725. I’ve been looking at the Topstone and Revolt (both carbon and alu), but I just feel a bit meh. Whereas I look at the Steel CGR and I think I’m in love…
As well as gravel (plan the dirty reiver in Britain next year), I’m also planning to do more and longer Audax to test the water for a potential PBP attempt in four years.
Only thing putting me off is the (most likely only a kg) weight penalty.
I also can’t make up my mind on 105 v GRX. 105 seems to make sense given it’s dual role, and also ribble are telling me my existing 105 4iiii won’t be compatible with the GRX 1x set up they offer!
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SKS speedrocker. Only used them once but they’re good. Easy to fit and no rubbing. Clip on also so easy to remove/install
Sweet, thank you. Set ordered already!
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Same here. I don’t “need” another bike and will only get a gravel/multipurpose bike if I get in the DK200 next year, but the CGR (probably Ti, maybe SL, slightly possible 725) is at the top of my list. I have also seen the new GRX (which Ribble only offers in single chainring right now) and will consider that, but would probably go with standard 105 or Ultegra and then swap out the chainrings for AbsoluteBlack 46/30 or 48/32. Unfortunately, the CGR bottom bracket doesn’t support something like a Praxis crankset, and that is my only real concern with the CGR (and, likewise, with the Trek Checkpoint).
Also looking at:
Trek Checkpoint, but clearance for crank-based power meter is a concern, as well as the bottom bracket issue (only supports Shimano cranks, similar to CGR, so gearing is a bit limited without AbsoluteBlack chainring hack).
Cannondale Topstone – Seems solid and gearing is excellent, but perhaps a bit overpriced, especially for the newer carbon version.
Diamondback Haanjo 7 – Another solid choice, but pricing is not as favorable as it was a few years ago and sizing seems a bit odd. Also, the current 2019 model only has matte paint, and I really don’t want another matte-finish bike.
I kinda do need something - the Kona Rove AL is grand for short enough spins, but was hard work on recent 100km gravel grinder tbh. But even the 725 is a weight saving on that, even before claris v 105/ ultegra.
My issue is that they don’t do the Irish Bike To Work, which makes it a bit harder to justify. But I’d have to put virtually the same into the Topstone Carbon 105 or the Giant Revolt Advanced.
Very tempted by the Ti too, but it’s a little too much without a test ride for me. And I still think the steel looks better. And really, that’s the most important thing 
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Also very interested in the ribble both the carbon and the titanium. However, I noticed the titanium setup has a considerable weight penalty as well as a far less aggressive stack to reach. I plan on doing long base rides in the winter, race the occasional gravel event (would like to do dirty kanza) and do some bike packing. The reason I find titanium interesting is mostly due to the bike backing? Any thoughts?
As alternatives I am also looking at the topstone, cervelo a aspero, storck grix pro and orbea terra.
Glad to hear recommendations on more race oriented titanium frames 
I would be surprised if your 105 4iiii does not fit. As long as it’s the same length crank and you don’t mind mismatched cranks all should be good.
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I asked Stages about GRX cranks in late August, and they stated current non-GRX Shimano left crankarms would NOT work with GRX due to the different chainline and q-factor of GRX. I assume the same would apply to 4iiii.
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So was I, but that’s what Ribble support told me!
From what I can see the Q factor has been increased 2.5mm outboard on the drive side. This should have no difference on the non-drive side. As long as you are using a single sided non-drive side 4iiii or Stages I can’t see it being a problem. I’m not a mechanic though so get confirmation from an independent mechanic first.
https://bike.shimano.com/content/dam/productsite/shimano-northamerica/pdf/GRX%20DOC%20CONSUMER.pdf
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That bike is legit.
I’m so close to pulling the trigger on the Ribble Ultegra gravel bike. But, I don’t really need it. My Focus Mares CX 1 did awesome for some of the gravel races I did. But, with anything, would be nice to just keep that bike focused on cx and something for gravel. But, if I just put on a larger cassette, long cage rear derailleur, and a new chain, I basically have a gravel bike. Minus some of the geo. For what it’s worth, I felt comfy on it for the 100 miles at Steamboat Gravel.
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I’m attracted to steel or ti options as much for the leisure/ audax side. I’d be a bit concerned about my lack of skills with carbon too, although I’ve read that ti, especially welds, don’t like crashing much either.
I’m still not convinced as 1x for an all rounder, although nearly pulled the trigger on a Force 1 1x ti option from planet x that had money off, but was out of my size by the time I confirmed the sizing (which seems a bit strange).
Also, from what I can work out there’s actually (an albeit small) weight penalty of the GRX option ribble offer versus the 105. Definitely doesn’t seem to be a weight saving anyway.
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My road bike has a 11-32 and a compact double (105). My CX / Gravel bike has a 10-42 with a 42 up front (Rival). I don’t notice the difference (except for rarely being in between gears from a cadence perspective).
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I have an Aspero and bought a set of 650b’s and have swapped them without any issues. I got the same rotors, if that meant anything. My biggest issue is just getting the rear wheel back in. The RX derailleur moves inward so much when you try to pull it down out of the way to get the cassette placed that it moves the disc way out of alignment with the calipers. Need to figure out how to do this more gracefully. But otherwise, no alignment issues once I do get the wheel fitted.
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Are you shifting to the small cog on the cassette before removing the wheel?
And make sure to turn off the clutch on the derailleur or that will make it very difficult.
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I’ve been here and had the same issue with my wife’s GRX Topstone. The small ring makes a huge difference. I learned that the hard way after many long and frustrating minutes far away from the car.
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