It’s probably fine. The other impacts (you already mentioned BB) are:
I think I’m gonna build it up with the 100 and see if I have any steerer left when I set the saddle to bar drop and decide then if it’s appropriate to lower the front even more. I’ve ridden this bike for the past 4 years and never had a problem with it’s stack heigth and using a 750mm bar. The flared 400mm bar I have now should in theory make for a more upright position anyway, so I think I’ll be fine in this regard.
I haven’t thought about toe-overlap or the shorter wheelbase. I’ll be running 2.2" Race Kings so not the biggest tires in volume and going with 170mm cranks so even if I lower the front end I think it shouldn’t be an issue. It’s not that drastic of a change I’d assume?
Now I just have to figure out how to fit a 38t chainring on my frame or if I should go 2x… what year is it?
No it’s not a drastic change at all! I don’t have the math handy, but I’d guess it’s less than 10mm.
HI,
I usually use bike-stats.de (don’t worry, it’s in English). It has a handy tool that calculates the new geometry when swapping out components.
bike-stats - Geometry calculator
Just select “install a different fork” at the top. Search your bike or put in your current geometry, and the new fork lenght (shorten by 20mm in your case). And it will calculate/visualize the new geometry.
Depending on your drivetrain system, a wider crankset woth spacers could help. I went dub wide for my 1x12 mechanical XPLR build. And then those ~8mm offset chainrings used for the road/gravel set ups.
I was able to fit a 40t on my size M Epic HT clone.
What frame are you working with? Would love to see your set up!
FWIW I’m on my third drop bar HT in the last year, each one having learned from the last to make some improvements.
Started with a M Chisel, then went to a M SWorks Epic HT, now on a custom Mosaic.
For the Mosaic, I sought to replicate my gravel bike fit using stack/reach as reference, while still maintaining the handling performance of a true mountain bike via HTA, offset, front-center, and tire clearance (up to 2.5”). I’ve found the tire sweet spot to be ~2.2-2.3”, with larger tires feeling a little more sluggish and labor some to utilize the side knobs while ripping singletrack. Conti Race King and Maxxis Aspen ST 2.25” are my top two favorite tires with the bike for conditions ranging from fast gravel/pavement to chunky gravel and fire roads, and ripping singletrack. Have raced the DBHT at Migration Gravel, Leadville, Chequamegon, Iceman, and a lot of local gravel and mtb races, so quite the variety with a lot of success. Once getting used to the setup, the only limitations come from the hard tail aspect, not the drop bar. Very capable setup for any mixed surface riding/racing.
So, Dylan going with Thunderburts instead of Race Kings?
2.35 Burts for the bigger volume
It’s certainly not the prettiest/lightest build, but he’s got the right idea! A bit surprised to see him go with fairly wide SES AR bars, but as he mentioned, he might come to appreciate just that tiny bit extra buffer for the technical stuff over his typical 35cm gravel bars.
Water Bottles; Elite Fly 950ml
I’m a gravel guy not really knowledge in the MTB world but how can DJs bike weigh 23lbs and Cole Paton (based on his IG story) can get his flat bar sub 17lbs. Seems insane to me. Surly drop bars don’t weigh that much more !?
Hardtail frames can be built pretty lightweight. 900g and below is not unheard of wheras a full sus XC frame is easily 1900g+ (s-works epic evo 7). 17lbs or 7.71kg for a hardtail is pretty damn light, like dangerholm level weight weenie. Comparing that to a dropbar full sus XC bike with dropper is apples to oranges.
Going that full weight weenie I’d be worried about breaking something like DJ did testing those lightweight flat bars…
This whole dropbar MTB conversation has shifted over to the Keegan Bike check thread. Don’t want to derail the discussion over there so I hope still some people are reading here.
I have a 2018 trek procaliber sl that I‘m in the process of converting to a dropbar mtb. The frame accepts 36t front chainring and ideally I‘d be at least on a 38 or even 40t.
I need a new crankset for this bike anyway so I was thinking either getting a transmission gx crank or just shimming an eagle crankset a few mm over to get a chainline that wirks with a bigger chainring.
What would you do?
Interesting to hear your experience. I don’t mind the 52mm chainline nor the Q factor of my Hardtail - on the contrary. I have the +4mm wide axles on my SPD SL and 2mm spacers on my roadbike. I can get more power trough the cranks with a wider stance.
I wasn’t aware of the drivetrain problems that come along with a spaced iut crankset.
I‘m not even sure if the Transmission cranks are compatible with eagle chainrings. Have to dig in some more.
I’m paging @CincoGirl here. Can you share your thoughts and experiences on riding a 56mm chainline on your trek procaliber?
I wouldn’t shim anything. The chain line was designed to work as it is. Do you really think you need a 40t on a MTB? 
Unless your rides are averaging in the mid-20mph+ it doesn’t make much sense to me, but so many people seem to think that they need to have gravel gearing on their MTBs. Don’t forget that the bigger tire increases your gear inches on its own.
I’d be willing to bet that a 36t would work well for most of what you need. Maybe try it first. 
Then if you need a bigger ring you can see what fits without shims. A lot of people run 38t on those, but I’m not sure if they have 55mm chainrings or not.
If I was interested in trying this kind of thing, how much shorter stems are you using than flat bars? Currently at 100mm with 660 bars
Not sure about swapping rings, but t-type rings are compatible with Eagle chains. No issue running transmission crank and rings on an eagle drivetrain.
