I haven’t had a flat in 6 years. I haven’t even noticed a squirter. I’ve always run GP5000TLs (yes the older model). I found a deal on a few so I bought them up. On my last one now.
Yes, I’ve probably had more than my fair share of luck and I’m probably living on borrowed time.
The Conti’s I’ve had always come with a slick silicone-like film on the inside of them. I like to scrub it off with soap and water so that sealant eventually sticks to the inside of the tire.
GP5000 is ok but I love schwalbe one tubeless tires. Be sure, when buying any tire, that you get the specific tubeless version. The same name tires are sold both tubeless and non. Not every tubeless locks into every rim well, but most modern ones are fairly universal now
That is exactly my experience. I’ve been on road tubeless on my summer bike for about 10 years now and on tires and tubes on my winter bike.
In general the pressures required for x25 mean air will leak somewhere - burping out of the tire/rim interface, out of the valve hole or out of the spoke holes if you are not using a true tubeless rim.
I found things worked ok when I had true tubeless rims but the spokes are proprietary and expensive to fix if something breaks.
On tubeless ready rims that have been made tubeless with rim tape they are very hard to make leakproof.
I’ve only had a couple of tubeless punctures on the road. One on a tire down to the canvas, didn’t seal and another with a big thorn that also didn’t seal properly. So overall that was a good experience apart from the mess of sealant.
That said I rarely have punctures on tires and tubes, the last one 3 or 4 years ago which took me 2 minutes to fix and before that it was snakebite blowout.
So I’m thinking road tubeless is a solution looking for a problem with quite a lot of downsides. I’m planning on transitioning back to tires and TPU tubes. At pressures of 65 psi and under - like wide tires for gravel biking and of course MTB it is probably the way to go.
I’ve been riding tubeless on all of my bikes (except for my '93 Singletrack) for the past 4-5 years and I haven’t had a single flat tire. I top off the sealant every season, but otherwise, there has been no maintenance whatsoever.
I have discovered small wet spots on the tread from either weeping tires or very small punctures, but I’ve never had to add air to a tire due to a puncture.
I realize that this isn’t necessarily common, but when I used tubes I usually got several flats each year.
I think I got my first tubeless wheel in April 2017 (a 25mm tyre) never ever had a problem with it but it is on my TT bike. I got a tubeless wheel set for my road bike a year later (2018) and after about 6months of success it was a bit of a damp squib. I’d get a tiny p’ture that wouldn’t seal fully despite appearing too, I would gradually loose air, and then a small bump like a cateye would unseat the tyre completely. It almost wrecked the last day of the LEJOG (a spare tube after mess came to my rescue). I almost gave up on tubeless, then I realised it was the sealant (avoid finishline never dries out sealant). I’m glad I never as unbeknown to me that year I had been battling a chronic iron deficiency caused by cancer, and April/May 2019 saw me have it removed and begin chemotherapy. My particular chemo drugs killed my nerves and made my fingers unfeeling and weak. Standing at the road side could quickly see my body cool down and those symptoms magnify. I’m so glad I never had to deal with a p’ture then thanks to tubeless. In the time since I’ve had one de-seating and decided I was close enough to home to be rescued by a quick phonecall and no mess, on hindsight I probably should have sorted it on the road.
Last winter was the first time in years, I’ve had winter bike with clinchers/tubes and it was a right p’ture faff, I was glad to go back to tubeless in the spring. Other winters I’ve changed to winter tubeless wheels on my good bike but my winter bike wont take >23mm under the forks with full guards, but I’m considering a hybrid set up for next winter (23mm clincher on the front, 25 tubeless on the rear).
This is probably because I don’t ride that much outside (mainly summer/fall, peaking at 120-130 mpw) but I’ve only gotten 1 flat in 3+ years of riding, and only because I let my sealant almost run out so the small tear wouldn’t plug. This was on a gravel bike running 30mm tires at 60ish psi. Mostly road riding but plenty of rough/debris surfaces.
Now on a supersix with 28mm tires at 75ish psi. I opted for Pirelli PZero Race TLR tires as I read these were more puncture proof. So far so good.
My gravel bike seems to holding the sealant well, more so than the initial application (which was done by the shop). So this is close to 2 years without re-filling. Overall, I love not having to worry about flats/changing tubes.
Refresh your sealant every riding season, or suffer the pain a friend had last year, flat tire “why won’t it seal” go to put tube in and it was dry in the tire.
I’m still debating what to do on this. I’m on 32mm tires and with tubes I’m running them at 70-75 psi. I’m on the heavier side for a cyclist at ~205lbs/93kg. I’ve run the tire pressure calculators and tried running my tires with the tubes in the low 60s. While the ride quality is definitely better, they are noticeably slower. If I go tubeless, perhaps I just run them in the 60s so they seal better and accept the fact that they’ll perhaps be a bit slower.
Same size. First off, hooked rims. Second, depending on external rim width (Roval Rapide CLX) you might find 32 tires to be fast depending on tarmac you ride on.
If you are all about numbers, look to TT specialists for absolute fastest setups (wheels and +/- 25 tires).
I don’t find them any more expensive as you’re not paying for tubes over the life of the tyres. As for setup, it’s pretty straightforward these days. Tighter tolerances to spec have made it so.
I’m definitely a tubeless convert on road. While the setup can be a bit more effort, the payoff is on the road.
My “aha” moment was last summer, 40 miles into a 2-day 200 mile ride. Picked up a roofing nail. Pulled out the nail, pushed in a DynaPlug, gave it a good shot of CO2. Back on the road in under 5 minutes.