Chain Waxing Tutorial

Same, ZFC has always had real data like Friction Facts before him. OZC on the other hand… not so much.

I got a connex link (steel) for my 10 spd shimano drivetrain, for endless capacity to take the chain off for cleaning. On the 11t sprocket it skips. Mine came with a very large outter plate, I don’t know if that is normal, but I am guessing that was the cause of the problem. I put sram link that came with the chain and no problems.

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Sounds like you have it upside down. The Connex link is uni directional. The curve needs to mini the shape of the cassette.

See manual download link on this page.
Direct link.

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Thank you!
I am embarrassed to say, that is very likely what happened. Will give it a try next time I switch chains, which is very soon.
Edit: but then on mine the “10” engraving is upside down! No wonder I got it wrong …
Still, I too would very much like a 12spd version for the mtb.

I waxed a brand new 12s XTR chain last night but after putting it on the bike, including engaging the quick link, I’ve determined I need to remove a link. Therefore, I’m wondering if the new Shimano quick link that came with the chain can be reused after being engaged but not ridden?

I reuse them several times on my SLX 12 spd. chains. Haven’t had a problem yet. When new, they are pretty tight to close and open but as you reuse them they loosen up. I kind of use my best judgement when they feel too loose I pitch them. I’m not endorsing this since it is not recommended, just what i (and a lot of others) do.

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UK based and waxing chains. I have several 11spd chains in rotation. The most expensive one I use is a KMC 11 EPT which is great and always waxes well using the same treatment as them all.
Which is put them on the chain swisher, poor boiling water over them, dry with paper towels and put them onto the wax in the hotpot and switch it on.
I also have two plain KMC X11’s - one was slightly used the other brand new before I cleaned them. Every time I wax these two after cleaning they’re both the black and silver linked ones btw - they dirty/contaminate the wax. I cleaned them both to the point where the white spirit was clear so just cannot understand why there is this difference.

Maybe I was just more thorough with cleaning the EPT one. I would also have thought that several dunks in hot wax would have flushed out any residual crap/ grease etc that was in there.

Time to move on and I’ve been looking at replacing both with either YBN or Wipperman chains. Kinda getting lost in the many articles so has anyone got any good recommendations as to which 11 spd chains from these two brands to use that won’t break the bank and waxes well?

Cheers.

That’s funny, as that’s exactly what zfc suspects causes a problem with waxing kmc chains. He’s so against them I’ve gone to ybn and shimano. Here’s the ybn version in silver (gold also available for another tenner!). They’ll also prep and wax chains like zfc for a small fee

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I have multiple quick links that I have reused over a dozen times each and never had an issue. If the quicklink locks in tight you should be fine. If it starts to feel “loose” or snaps in too easily I would replace. I think the main concern would be the link coming unhooked while riding.

Yep I have the Wolftooth compact chain link tool and extra links exactly for that reason. Well that and I did Unbound so I still have stuff in my pack that I’m never likely to need on a “normal” ride.

You did Unbound on a waxed chain? How did that go?

Was just fine. Bit of noise at the very end when the grit started to dry. A rinse might have helped, but the only real noise was when moving from ring to ring because of the grit on the side plates and FD plates. From the pic you can see one link was starting to bind. When I do it next year I’ll do a fresh chain and treat it with silca super secret drip the night before just to make sure it’s over protected :stuck_out_tongue:

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Well, that’s it. Waxing my MTB for sure. If it worked for Unbound this year, then it should be just fine for anything else.
I use straight paraffin and top with Silca supre secret drip after about 100 miles on my road bike.
A connex link for 12s hyperglide+ would be great. Especially if I managed to install the upside up :slight_smile:

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Whats up with the kinked link? Did it free up after?

Probably combo of incomplete wax penetration and the grit. That’s why I’m going to do silca drip night before. Insurance to cover possibilities that I might not have done as good a job of swishing as required. For things like MTB and Unbound I’m thinking I’d go with a bit more through cleaning and double dip in the wax (dip, cool, exercise links, repeat) to make sure everything is as close to perfect as I can make it.

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I’ve been running YBN SLA110s for about eight weeks now on ZFCs recommendation/data. Quieter than my Ultegra chains immediately after waxing and seem to run a bit longer more quietly than the Ultegras did. Very happy with them so far. Bought a 10-speed chain for my TT bike that’ll go in the wax soon. Just a little harder to get hold of, but in the end satisfied.

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Did you notice any rust in the wash after? My biggest issue with wax in muddy/wet conditions is that the chain will rust unless i clean it right after. This is mostly from shorter cyclocross races so should be well under wax running out. Ive switched to silca nfs for cx and stick to wax for road and gravel

Quick links have a thinner portion around the area where the pins engage that allow the pins to slide back and forth to release. When you reuse them, this thinner portion wears down, and eventually the pins become easier to move and easier to engage/disengage.

As you mentioned, when the link becomes easy to engage or disengage, it’s time to change the link. My rule of thumb is that if I can pull the link closed by hand, I change it out immediately. If I still need to use my Park master link tool to engage the quick link, it’s good to go. I’ve used this rule for the last 3-plus years and haven’t had an issue yet. I would say I get about 5 uses (1500 miles or so) out of each quick link.

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There was a bit of visible rust that I managed to clean off. This Unbound chain is now a training & commuting chain. Is the only solution to that to run Ti? Is that even worth it?

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I also did unbound 200 on a waxed chain. I waxed it in silca on Wednesday. Dripped on silca SS the night before. No problems. I did do a full bike bath in a creek after the mud section at mile 125-130. Overall worked really well for me.

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