is it “bad” if they stop clicking or does it just indicate an increased risk of failure?
I think it just risks opening if they can be taken off by hand. Since there should always be tension on the quicklink it is a low risk but probably not worth it.
I ask because I honestly haven’t paid that much attention but recently realized I probably should. I swap between my two chains twice a month and reuse the same quicklink for most of the past year and haven’t had any issues
I don’t pay that much attention as the new chains come with a new quicklink and they tend to last at least as long as the chain.
I reuse sram quicklinks, but not that often. Maybe 3-4 times over the lifetime of the chain.
Really find it interesting that there are so different experiences with squirt. Wonder if its down to temperature, or something else. For me it always dries completely overnight, and it isn’t sticky, just a slightly waxy feel. It also doesn’t gunk up at all.
The temperature here in the UK is mostly between 5-20 deg C, and humidity somewhere over 60%.
The waxy feel was how it felt after drying, so same experience there. But once sprayed down with water, it was quite tacky. A new experience for me for drip-on lubes of any kind.
Repeated again tonight after a seriously muddy ride, spray down, blow-dry, and same tacky feel. Wiped chain pretty firmly with microfiber rag and tacky feel went away. Felt like dry chain. Reapplied Squirt and it appears to be drying nicely by the fan. I suspect I’ll be back to waxy feel tomorrow morning.
But who knows what the pins and rollers are like on the inside.
Wipperman connex links seem to last well and you can take them off by hand.
I use them on the road, gravel but haven’t fitted one to my MTB yet.
They also do a stainless steel 12 speed chain.
I’ll do the MTB at some point - not done it yet as to do that I’d also have to do the wife’s bike and our girls bikes at the same time which would be a wax-a-thon…
My chain and drivetrain never looks dirty. After application you must wipe the chain and drivetrain excessively, to include the chainring and jockey wheels.
How many miles or hours of ride time do you go between application of the lube and the next wipe-down and re-lube?
I’ve reused a kmc quick link at least a dozen times w/o trouble (just one data point fwiw)
After each ride, which is 2-4 hours. I generally do a full wash of the bike (drivetrain) at the end of every week.
Whoever thinks waxing is a hassle, I swear that’s nothing compared to trying to keep a greasy drivetrain clean! I’m going back to waxing as soon as this chain needs to be replaced.
Any bad experiences with an initial hot wax bath and maintenance done with a drip lube for the remainder of the chain’s useful life? I won’t be taking it off after it’s installed.
Edit: It’s a road bike ridden in dry conditions unless the unexpected happens.
If you use something like Silca Hot Melt or MSW and then top up with a similar formula (such as Silca Super Secret Drip) I’m sure you’d have great results. Topping a waxed chain with something like Rock N Roll GOLD seems like a terrible idea and a waste of initial waxing
Oh yes, I meant wax-based lube, only applied through dripping after the initial preparation rather than bathing.
Totally cool. Silca actually designed theirs to be separate products but also to work together as a treatment and maintenance pair
I got a KMC DLC11 chain with the blue highlighting a couple years ago, and I found that the blue paint began to flake off after a couple cleanings. Does anybody have experience on how to effectively clean those chains for waxing without taking the paint off?
I put a freshly waxed chain on the night prior to Unbound gravel. At the first check point everything was ok, about mile 125 it started to make noise when i went into my 42. Mile 155 I put some squirt lube on the chain and never had an issue the rest of the ride.
Conditions were dusty, 5 creek crossing and I ended up with some mud on the wheels, I was pleased with the product after 205 miles.
After listening to the latest LT100 podcast, I’m on the wax train again - besides Icefriction, are there any shops that sell race-ready waxed chains?
Got a 12sp SRAM on my XC MTB, but they said that the Campagnolo Record would work as well, so hoping to find that one waxed somewhere.
I have experimented with various levels of post-drip-lube wiping/cleaning of the drive train. From “mostly clean looking” to “anyone on the planet would consider this excessive”… as in: I’m trying to get every last bit of lube and grime off any external surface, including spinning the chain for 100+ revolutions while wiping with clean rags.
I notice that there is a point where more wiping actually results in a very slightly louder chain. Not grinding or clicking, just that the rollers can be more audibly heard contacting the casette and pully wheels, as compared to “pretty darn clean, but not excessive” level wiping, post-drip-lube-application.
Have you experienced this?
Is it supposed to sound like that? My inclination is no, because sound means impact and impact means higher friction… in my small brain.
I have some questions on @Jonathan’s original post that I haven’t seen addressed. If anyone could answer I’d be appreciative!
If using half a jar of mineral spirits per bath, and using 6-8 baths per chain, am I understanding that you’re using upwards of half a gallon of mineral spirits per chain, per stripping?
The cheapest mineral spirits I can find are $12.44 / gallon. This appears to be quite costly over the life of a chain. Am I doing something wrong? (I did multiple chains at once in a sequence of 6 jars with positive results, but it still seems like I’m burning money on mineral spirits if I’ll be doing this often.
I could be wrong but mineral spirits aren’t water soluble, at least by my hand-rinsing attempt. What is the purpose and effect of the water rinse?
How do you dry the chain after rinsing with water? Any concern for rust or do you get it dry pretty quickly? If so, how!? (I live in the PNW some of the year and it seems like even in my house a wet chain could stay wet long enough to rust if I don’t have a direct source of air flow on it, or crank up the furnace to uncomfy-warm.