I’ve gone to a 30t or 32t on the rear, which in theory is the max my Ultegra 6800 long cage can run. A next step people should consider, is other the Wolftooh ($15, or a knockoff form aliexpress for $5), which may allow a 36t (they’re really non-specific on their website) or I found Specialized have a longer derailleur hanger ($15) which sort of does what the wolf tooth does. I have one of them being delivered this week. Another option is the Ultegra 8000r ($70) long cage, which I think will also do a 34t and some report a 36t works on their specific frame.
So there are some interesting options to get to 34 or 36t cassettes running on road bikes at the moment. Just that there’s not a ton of info on what works etc.
AFAIK there is zero evidence that oval rings will make you a more powerful rider. But some prefer the pedaling feel and self-report e. g. less knee pain. On mountain bikes smoother power delivery is another argument in their favor. IMHO the discussion of oval vs. round chain rings is separate from gear ratios, though.
I have an absolute black oval ring in the small chain ring position and a standard round ring in the large position. I really like the feel of the oval ring when climbing. It’s no faster than my old round ring but does feel better to me.
I want to give a large oval a tray but I’m worried about the reports I have seen of bad shifting.
This is the same setup I have,
I can’t feel a difference honestly, and even just this combo has affected shifting from the little ring to the big so I have no interest in getting both oval rings
Can somebody explain why the length of the rear mech cage affects what cassette can be used? Does a longer cage mech lower the position of the top jockey wheel allowing it to move below a larger cassette? I always though the difference was the distance between the two jockey wheels and never understood why this has any impact.
Wide ratio testing usually requires a longer chain, to handle that range. The longer RD cage is there to handle the wide variations between gears and keep the chain tension proper.
That long cage is needed to pull a little or a lot of excess chain, depending on the gearing.
You can, but you risk ripping the derailleur and chain off your bike if you shift into too big a gear and pedal. Big-big is the problem.
Little-little can become a problem if you lengthen your chain to avoid the big-big problem. Then your chain can have too much slack, and can easily come off.
I’m gonna be in Tenerife over the next winter and thinking about doing Mount Teide. This would be my first really long big climb (even though the gradients never get too steep).
I have a 52/36 upfront and debating between a 11-32 or 11-34 cassette. Do people really think the 34 will be necessary/warranted? Or will a 32 be fine and having smoother steps be nicer for when not doing this particular climb.
I live in a hilly area as well, but not sure if I would really need a 34 for my average rides.
There little to no difference in getting an 11-32 in terms of performance.
The difference is when things get steep and you’re struggling to keep your cadence up and you find out that you have an extra gear is very very useful.
I am very happy with my 11-34 cassette and when those 10% - 15% steep climbs come, everybody in my group ride is jealous that I’m pretty much one of the few that can maintain 100 cadence.
Also I reach for the lowest gear much more than I thought I would.
I would highly recommend it especially if you’re going for a climbing trip.
The hardest climb I have averages 10% for an hour but most climbs are around 6% here. Just for reference.
I have never been on ride and thought to myself “man, my bike gearing is too low”. When you’re dying up a hill, having an easier gear to keep your cadence up is immensely helpful.
I don’t know the climb you are referring to, but the advice / insight from @ambermalika on the podcasts has never been proven wrong - I have never met a lower gear I did not like.
Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, IMO.
I don’t recommend the 11–34 cassette, go for SRAM’s 11-36 cassette. Shimano’s cassette has 2-tooth jumps at the top end, while the SRAM cassette still has 3 cogs that are 1 tooth apart. Plus, you have more range.
Im fairly light at 63kg and use a super compact up front. 48 / 32 hence the possibility of a high cadence even at 10% gradient. the new sram rival 10-36 has even lower range than a 48 / 32 paired with a 11/34.
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