I agree that a damper would be possible but if they will allow or do it is still to be determined.
Not challenging you;
I am seeing a FA setup from scratch being around $3200 (at MSRP) if you also need a crank and power-meter (this is me as an example).
$1350 Fork → $850 Rear Shock → $2200 and for someone that needs a crank and power meter how much would that be? 1k? so that brings this upgrade for someone like myself to $3200’ish (I know you can find deals but just looking at MSRP).
I am also seeing the Fox Neo rear shock and sensors for $1400 → Shock → Sensors
If you estimate that a fox fork will be competitive in price at $1400 you are looking at $2800 for the Fox products (Estimated).
So if you do apples to apples and you use the SRAM pedal sensor over PM that is about $2300 vs Fox’s estimated $2800. The biggest anomaly is if you need a PM and which route you go, but it would appear Fox is going to always be more than SRAM.
I think I just spun off on a tangent here and brain dumped. I really like the Neo protocol and how they are achieving the suspension lockout on the system.
Hayes T2’s swapped for TRP Slate T4’s, Racing Ray/Ralph for Forekaster/Rekons, and Xpedo CXR Pros instead of Crankbrothers Candy 2’s. Dropped about 2lbs off the bike. Respectable weight with pedals and cages. There’s still more meat on the bone but it gets quite expensive (XX SL stuff etc.)
I’m planning on getting some Nextie rims and building up a super lightweight race wheelset over the winter which should land the bike in the low 24# range. That’ll be it…probably.
You’re right, I hadn’t checked out the sensors yet. So yes, it does look like it will be a few hundred more for Fox than SID FA - although it’s probably in line with the Super Deluxe FA package, which is probably more apples to apples given we’re talking about a Float X/DHX2 and not a Float SL.
I saw the new element a few weeks ago, it’s major difference is it will use flex stays. The version I saw also had flight attendant.
One of my riding buddies has an element. I’ve tested it out, it rides phenomenally. But it, like all Rocky’s (imo, I used to have an instinct), the design leads to massive maintenance issues. Constant creaks from the pivots and shock hardware.
That top end Element w/ FA is heavy for a $13k XC bike at 26.4lbs (before pedals, cages, etc.). So, probably pushing 28lbs when ready to ride. I don’t obsess over weight, but that’s about 4lbs heavier than an Sworks Epic 8. Some of that weight on the Element is easy enough to shed (the big beefy tires), but that’s still a lot of heft for that price point.
The old quarq PM is also compatible with FA. I think there are chainrings from garbaruk or other 3rd parties for both SRAM and Shimano drivetrains. Might be a more affordable option than going with transmission
Flight Attendant Question - Anyone running a cable operated dropper, and what are you using for a dropper lever being that you need the left-hand AXS Controller to cycle through modes? How’s the mounting and is it getting too “busy”?
Trying to avoid going to the heavier wireless dropper, but packaging would be nicer…
Below for dropper options, however I would mention that I came into FA from a manual 3pos system and I don’t run a manual control and feel there is very little reason for one - I haven’t been left wanting at all and have ~40hrs on FA including a few races.
A number of companies make a tangential pull dropper - assuming you have an Oiz with a squidlock, the squidlock dropper lever is a good option.
Other options (these aren’t the best places to buy them necessarily, just the quickest links I found in the 10sec google search.
While I may ultimately decide I don’t need it, I do want the option of manual override as I get used to it and test it out.
Squidlock is definitely an option, it’s what I run now but the version I have now packages the dropper and the suspension lockout in one mount, and I’d be switching to the top dropper lever only.
Basically trying to keep it as minimalistic as possible with the two mounts that’ll be needed and seeing if anyone’s actually running a setup like this that they like.
What size is your blur? I’m on an XL, just upgraded to Xtr two piston brakes and just got a new 130mm gripx 34. Decided to accept the weight penalty as I’m aiming for a more downcountry build. I’m at about 26.5 lbs, but haven’t ridden it extensively to see how I like the new brakes or form. Very interested to see how this new fork rides, especially with the added 10mm of travel. Hard to see how I can drop more weight without really compromising on the capabilities of the bike.
It’s definitely a balance between capability and light weight especially where I live. I plan on running these wheels as a downcountry tire combo with Forekaster/Rekon which will probably bump it right around that 26.5# range.
Ah awesome. Yeah I’m gonna run a forecaster front and ground control rear, which is basically same setup. I was running ground control front and rekon race rear and was struggling with traction quite a bit.
That was why I recommended it - they have a dropper only option. You may be able to buy just the bottom portion of the clamp but even the entire unit is reasonably priced.
I’m aware - the reason I bring it up is in every case I’m going from 1 clamp on the left to two different clamps on the left which spreads everything out.
Trying to find out if anyone’s actually used a setup that they like that keeps everything as compact as possible…
I follow now what you’re looking to do. I’m not sure any of those remotes are going to integrate cleanly with a sram brake clamp since realistically you want to have the dropper lever pretty far left of the actual clamp area. The Orbea Option seems like one of the narrowest and simplest of the bunch and the cable does exit relatively well with sram master cylinders, as I’m sure you know
The only way I’d see that working is if you have one of the remotes (dropper or suspension) above the bar. You could leave your current dropper remote on the left under the bar. Then add the suspension remote (axs controller) above the bar on the left or right side (the handlebar mounts can go left or right under or over the bar). I basically ran like that for 4+ years on my Scott spark when I added a dropper. To make room for the dropper remote on the left, I moved the 3-way suspension remote from the left to the right and flipped it upside down (above the bar).
I’ve got an AXS post, so I’m just using 2 2-button controllers in the default setup. I’m actually thinking about re-assigning my axs buttons to make the suspension remote the top button on my current 2-button shift controller (more like where it was on my scott). It would also be more like AXS road shifting where I’d use the left side controller for an easier gear and the right side controller for a harder gear. So, the bottom button on each controller would be for shifting and the top buttons would be used for dropper(left) and suspension override(right). I sometimes go into “road shift” brain fart mode anyway on the MTB and hit my dropper button by accident trying to grab a lower gear, so maybe making road and MTB shifting match better I’ll solve that problem.
Yeah, price is highly dependent on where you are. R2 is dumping the XX1 cranks for 250€, so about 275$? Used you can get these parts much cheaper as there is almost no used market where I am so people are just happy to get something…
I got my XO transmission for under that price (on sale). Of course you are a pound heavier though…