Just for anyone interested. Onyx customer service is indeed amazing.
Not cleaned up, but I finally got my dropper post sorted out. Very sensitive to torque. If I feel any slack on the dropper lever, it means it’s not fully seated up.
I also kinda splurged on bottle cages… King Cage Sideloaders. I’ve broken a Zee cage before, and since I sold my Tarmac I thought I needed something a little over the top.
Who wears out front rings? On a MTB they just get bashed in. On a 1x ring, you typically need them to bed in.
Interested in that new mini Wicked Will tire, also see one of the Canyon bikes running Racing Ralph front and Rear, I’ve seen before teams running Racing Ray front and rear. I wonder how the Ralph would handle as a front. They aren’t new but am curious to see how the Pirelli RC tires would perform with Bicycle Rolling Resistance’s testing.
This confirms my bias to stick to DT Swiss, if I’m going to go for the Berd Wheels setup.
I wouldn’t base my decision off of this. It’s being dealt with exceptionally well and the hubs are a very high quality bit of kit.
It seems like, based off your other posts, you’d be best served going for DT Swiss or Duke or something for weight. DT are excellent and extremely easy to maintain so that definitely helps.
I’d also consider the new Tairin hub if you’re considering silent freehub .
The Thomus (and almost all Schwalbe sponsored) World Cup team uses the Ralph front and rear extremely frequently. It’s a very fast combo, but you’d sacrifice a fair bit of front grip.
The new Wicked Will mini definitely looks intriguing. Honestly though, Ray is so dang good. I don’t do any races that are non-technical enough to go for something less up front.
For people that use the Ray, is it still a good front tyre with the speed compound? I’ve currently got a Ralph on the back and a Rocket Ron on the front, but the Ron is often a bit knobblier than needed for the (mainly dry) XC trails and races that I ride. I’m probably going to swap to a Ralph/Ray combo, based on comments I’ve seen in this forum, but I’m just wondering if people use the Ray with the speed or speedgrip when using that combo.
I’ve used both the tan wall “race” and black “ground” and found both to be excellent. Without testing back to back I didn’t notice any difference.
The Race is lighter though. That made it seem faster in my mind. It also made me very nervous when hard charging on race day as it doesn’t have the protection layer the whole way round, only at the top. I didn’t have any issues with either though.
Thanks a lot, I’ll get one of those Rays with the Race carcass then, just as soon as they’re back in stock. I’ve found something similar with race versions of the Thunder Burts that I’ve got on my hardtail. They seem surprisingly robust and I’ve had no probs for more than a year, which is more than I can say about the Schwalbe lighter weight carcasses (liteskin) from a few years ago.
Decided to ask in here rather than making a separate thread. I’ve been looking around at different powermeter options for a 2022 Epic Evo Comp and am getting a little bit confused on chainlines, boost, superboost, yada yada yada
The Epic Evo has a 52 mm chainline. I am running the stock setup (GX Eagle, DUB bottom bracket, SRAM X1 Alloy Crankset)
Some of the potential options:
- Eagle Transmission X0 T-Type AXS Power Meter (which is backwards compatible from what I read): 55 mm chainline
- Quarq Dzero XX1: comes in boost and non-boost. It also has to be paired with SRAM XX1 Eagle crank arms. Some of the crank arms have 55CL listed next to them (indicating a 55 mm chainline) others don’t have any (so not sure what that means…)
- Power2Max NGeco MTB Sram: I think these would fit on the current crank. But I’d have to pick boost, super boost, or standard
If I get something with a 55 mm chainline would I just need to add spacers on one side of the bottom bracket?
52mm chainline is boost
I’d go Sigeyi, boost, if yours is 3-bolt SRAM.
Boost just means 3mm offset.
ETA: standard is +6mn offset ~49mm chainline, Super Boost is 0mm offset. At least on a standard length crank spindle.
Another vote for Sigeyi.
It’s as reliable as all the other PM’s I’ve owned (Assioma, Stages, 4iiii) and a fraction of the cost of a Quarq. Bonus I got to keep my 5dev cranks.
Admittedly not really what you asked, but… I use pedal based power meter and love it. I have the Garmin ones and they work flawlessly. I’ve bashed them quite a bit with no problems and when I travel and rent a bike I can just bring them along and still have data.
You’re one of the lucky ones (source: mine would go out of whack and require recalibration mid ride, which often failed; the two friends I know who had them both broke them). All of us were using for gravel, not MTB.
Wow, I guess I am super lucky!
Mine have endured many, many pedal strikes (I’m super skillful ) and I never have any drops or calibration issues.
I retract my recommendation, but still love the flexibility of pedal based pms so if one were guaranteed to get a good set I would recommend that!
Does any one have a recommendation for sealant. I’m coming to the realization that the 7 hour ish MTB marathon race I am doing is notorious for flats.
I like stans race, but is there anything better? I run higher pressures than most, 30ish, so maybe something successful in gravel? I dont care how long it lasts in the tire, I change tires way too much to be worried about that.
Also, tire plugs. I’ve used dynaplug, but havent had to actually use them in ages. Should I be considering darts for in race?
Mix of stans race and Stan’s. Had luck with caffelatex as well.
Similarly, you probably shouldn’t be running 30psi unless you’re riding on roads.
I just got a '23 Evo and had the Power2Max NGeco SRAM BOOST model installed. One ride in and it works fine. Their iOS app is hot garbage though, don’t even bother installing it.