My biggest complaint is that they don’t sell a frameset only (except the stupid expensive nino edition) so I’d be looking at $4000 for the cheapest rc and then whatever I can part everything out for- probably around ~500? So still a very expensive frame compared to say a blur at 3000 or even less if you can find one used or on sale.
But I’m still learning towards the spark as it has the travel restriction lockout, the 68ish head angle, and is so lightweight.
Yeah Spark RC isn’t cheap. My next Spark will be a frameset only, as I already have all the upgraded other parts, and I’ll still probably end up spending $5,000. I’d really consider used if you can find a good deal.
Do you have a source where you can find framesets only being sold? I know they do in Europe but it seems they don’t in America.
Shock location is a red herring in the context of bump sensitivity. It matters in the overall context of how the suspension is designed but not in isolation, so you can’t really draw any conclusion just from a vertical versus horizontal shock.
If you want to learn more, look up the different suspension linkage types and the various parameters you optimize for like anti-squat, anti-rise, leverage ratio.
Been really enjoying the Supercaliber here in Ohio mainly riding Mohican, which is a pretty rooted up, somewhat rocky 25 miles of IMBA epic flowing singletrack. There aren’t really big hits on this loop but terrain varies from rocky, to rooted, to smooth throughout. Lots of short punchy climbs and a few longer ones too.
I’ve got the 100mm SID Ultimate on my build and I’ve spent most of the time tuning this. I had been riding Fox SCs for the last number of years. I’m about 152lb without gear right now, 5’11" and am now using two tokens, 104psi and 13 clicks from full slow on rebound. This has really smoothed out the SID which initially was bouncing off some of the rocks (I had rebound set too fast initially). At this point it doesn’t really feel much different that a 100mm SC.
Surprisingly I’ve messed very little with rear so far and am riding on what Trek recommended as the default set up. It is soaking things up on the trail but still letting me climb very efficiently. I am going to through a ShockWiz on it shortly and it will be interesting what feedback it gives.
So far super pleased with the Supercaliber but looking forward to trying it on some different terrain. Hopefully get it out to Brown County sometime soon.
This is a decent article.
Yup, suspension kinematics, shock leverage curve, and shock tune are the real keys. It’s possible to mix and match the suspension movement along with shock speed, valving, air spring volume and such to achieve a wide range of feelings.
This is all largely possible regardless of shock orientation and actuation. True, some linkage may provide advantages or limits, but a proper setup will include all those factors and can yield the performance desired. The real difference in feel is likely down to the intent from the designers with all that black magic mixed, and not a simple orientation we can see. It’s all far more complex than that.
If you ever make it a little further North I can highly recommend the Potawatomi Trail in Pinckney, MI. It’s the best trail in Michigan (South of the U.P.). Would be a great place to test out the Supercaliber.
Will definitely put it on the “To Do” list. Thanks for the recommendation!
This is something that is very much glossed over in the bike industry. Kudos for saying it out loud. Some manufacturers explain sag set up in a meaningful way yet I’m not sure I’ve ever heard any one say this as plainly; setting sag allows your suspension to fill in the holes. It’s not just about the bumps. I had been riding for years before I read that exact statement in a motorcycle suspension book, it was a bit of a head slapping aha moment for me.
Also a reason why rebound damping should be set as low as possible, without bouncing you off the bike.
On fast tight descents, the wheels need to be in contact with the ground as much as possible to maintain control.
Pulled the Large size Epic EVO into my list to see how it compared to the other bikes I considered. Crazy to see how close it is to my “old/new” 2019 Fuel EX. It falls a bit between the Top Fuel and Ripley too. Overall, looks like solid geo and splitting hairs in one dim or another.
Speaking of pressure/rebound clicks and so on.
I run the following pressures/clicks on my bikes. Both are setup identical since they’re identical frames and have identical forks/shocks. 
I’m currently at 156lbs.
Front fork - 80psi 10 clicks from fully closed, on the FIT4 I’ve set it to slowest.
Rear shock - 105psi 8 clicks from fully closed.
My friend who works at a Specialized dealer just sent me a picture of one of their first EVOs - I’d definitely ride that bike. Not to get too hung up on one geo number but a 66.5 HA with a 120 fork is as progressive as I’ve seen. Sounds like getting a frame might be S-Works only, have to say this one is firmly on my radar. Thanks for sharing your spreadsheet, makes for easy comparisons! Man Ibis has been pretty vague on a ship date and I think I’ll just relax and wait but all these new bikes make it tough not to think about!
Another great resource for geo comparison:
I use it for some quick info, especially for the ones I don’t already have (models and/or sizes)
Scalpel se vs spesh Evo review.
It’s kind of a moot point, because if you can afford this bike you can afford to just buy one. But the sworks epic is one of the first mountain bikes I’ve seen that comes stock with a power meter. Kinda neat.
I’ll play. I got a new XC bike (Scarlet Jo) for this year and I’m super pleased with her now.
Spry Cycles Centaurus (local, Utah brand).
It’s a fairly slack downcountry bike at 100/120mm
Factory 34 and DPS suspension with remote lockouts
Berd carbon wheels with I9 hydra hubs
Race Face stem and bars cut to 760
XT brakes
GX shifter/derailluer
e*thirteen 9-46 12 speed cassette
Stella carbonio saddle
XX1 Quarq 34t crank
Candy 3 or 7? pedals
[temporary] Magura Vyron dropper (this was a last minute alternative when the desired dropper wasn’t long enough for my stilted legs). the remote is a disaster (rubber o-ring mount?) and it’s awful tempermental. I plan to replace with a Fox Transfer
A bitchen Scarlet paint job.
24.6 lbs as described. dropped almost 4 lbs from my previous bike
The dropper is about 100g heavier than the transfer
Thinking about going with a synchros bar/stem combo. anyone can attest?
Nice bike! However your ESI bar end logo is not parallel with the ground.
as temporary as those grips tend to be, it probably is right now. but won’t be next month.
