Upgrade path for MTB

Mine have been great, there was a bit of a wait for them as had to wait on stock for DT350 hubs, but the company was fantastic to deal with. There is a massive thread over on the MTBR forums on BTLOS with a lot of happy customers (BTLOS Carbon Rims - New (well priced) Chinese Mfg and Retail Option | Mountain Bike Reviews Forum)

Roughly 1400g and way cheaper than name brand wheels of a similar weight.

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Got an epic evo expert earlier this year and immediately replaced the bar with an enve m6 and added a chainstay. The bar was because the stock bar does not clear the top tube which I heard about and so odd. Besides that all stock and a great ride.

Might sell it though and go gravel route instead as being my first mtb I think gravel is a better fit.

So……

Maybe contrary to popular opinion, last thing I’d touch would be anything to do with the drivechain.

I’d think:

  1. Tyres
  2. Wheels
  3. Depending on size, rotors.
  4. If there’s not one already, dropper post
  5. Bars
  6. Brakes
  7. Forks
  8. Drivechain (don’t over look weight of cassette when considering parts).
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Great thread!. I also got a Epic Evo Comp. I already upgraded the crank and got the one with powemeter $1000.

Next year upgrades:

1.) Roval Control CL $2500
2.) Ground Control T7 tires
3.) New Grips

2024 and Beyond

1.) Get the best fork in the market.
2.) Chain and cassette
3.) Lighter and better seat drop

I don’t think I’ll be upgrading to AXS. And in 5 years will probably try to get a Spark RC top of the line or Sworks.

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This was my first MTB so I didn’t know If I was going to like it….that’s why I went for a lower level bike. From now on, I will only buy top of the line bikes or custom builds. It’s more efficient for a chronic “updater” like me.

You might want to explore other carbon wheel options. There’s a lot of good ones out there cheaper than $2500. You can save a lot by going with Chinese brands like Light Bicycle or even going with the big brands you can get a better deal than that.

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Don’t have personal experience but everything in the Eagle line is supposed to be interchangeable. hypothetically you could have an XX1 cassette and NX everything else.

OP here, need to make a quick decision. I smashed my front rim and need to replace it. As i have stated, I was planning to get a new wheelset anyway, but not until I wore out the cassette. New wheelset would be xd, current is hg. I am not going to pitch this cassette with this much life in it, so, here are the options I am considering:

  1. Get an XD wheelset and only mount the front wheel for now, saving the rear for when it’s new cassette time
  2. Find a front wheel now and a rear wheel later. Matching is not important to me (should it be?)
  3. Get an HG wheelset and convert the freehub to xd in the future (doesn’t seem economical)

TIA!

Compatibility with the 10–52 cassette is an exception: officially, you need a longer cage rear derailleur, and I think these are only available GX series and up.

Why doesn’t that seem economical?
Two things: many wheelsets come with two freehub bodies. Even if not, for many freehubs you can buy a freehub body separately. A quick search on bike24.com and jensonusa suggests that you will have to pay about 50–100 €/$ on average.

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Ended up snagging a pair of Roval Traverse Carbons with a GX cassette on pinkbike for $720 including shipping. Pretty hard to beat that price. Not quite as light as my ideal wheels but I’m also not winning any xc races regardless.

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