When it hardens like that it’s pretty easy to detect because the wheel gets unbalanced. It causes the bike to wobble wildly in the stand when you spin it, and you can feel it (especially at speed) on the road.
This is by far the best tubeless tips article I’ve read. I wish I knew all of this at once instead of figuring it out over multiple tubeless installs and maintenance.
Really great article. May I suggest something? When writing an article, use both measurements.
For instance: ** Instead start about 4-inches**
I have no idea how much is 4-inches, I can’t picture this quickly. I’ll have to google a conversion so that I am able to mentally visualize what is 4-inches.
So, something like “Instead start about 4-inches (10cm)” helps the reader.
I was never sold on tubeless for road bikes, didn’t want the hassle of having to remove/refresh the sealant every 6 months. So I came up with my own solution, which works for me.
- Add enough sealant so the tyre will hold air
- Remove excess sealant (with a syringe) so none is left sloshing around in the tyre
- Carry around 30ml of sealant, in a small eye drop style bottle in saddle pack
- If I get a puncture add the fresh 30ml of sealant into the tyre and inflate
This saves me having to remove the tyre to refresh the sealant. Yes it may not offer much puncture protection but I generally don’t suffer with many punctures at all.
There’s actually a reason I didn’t do that. It’s a stupid one though and I’m going to add it now. Glad you are enjoying it.
why not just leave the sealant in then add more in in 6 months through the valve? you could still carry extra on the ride as a back up too. also Im changing rear tires usually every 6 months anyways at least so refreshing has never been much an issue with orange seal endurance