Road tubeless experiences

I saw that, but it said 2019 on the search bar so I assumed that was a dead topic. Go ahead and merge if it’s still active and you think it’s best :slight_smile:

For races, get a dynoplug or similar.

Check pressure more often before going for a ride, because they can leak a bit when new.

Other than that, just ride!

1 Like

Chill out then, that’s ^^^^ the only real thing that is any worse than tubs/tubes. Once they are holding air there isn’t much for you to do just top up the air every so often like a tub/tube. Every so often depending on your storage conditions you’ll have to remove the valve core and top up the sealant (somewhere between 4 months and a year) but during that time you might have had 3 or 4 race ending p’tures with tubs/tube so in comparison it nothing.

You might want to buy some sort of tyre plug (worm) for a road side repair in the rare event a hole doesn’t seal but your mechanic will probably take care of that rare event too.

1 Like

I will have a second set of wheels for a race, but some fondos don’t have support vehicles, so I might need to meddle with a flat. I’m going to be running some Specialized Turbo race tires. Any good plugs for a tire like that? I’ve never used them (but I have seen several videos about how cool they are).

1 Like

I just use a heap £3 tubeless repair kit (I’ve only actually used it once in about 5 years). With my cheap one its just a case of pushing a worm in with the tool, pumping the tyre up and trimming it with a blade. I also fixed a mates tubeless disc with one pre race and it was good for a 20mins 10. Its quite quick but some of the dearer tools look neat :+1:

1 Like

You’d learn a lot installing them yourself. You can read the tips in many topics on the forum.

If you flat during a road race with no sag support and you don’t have a clue as how to plug a tire, it’s going to suck. It really helps to practice it if you can.

1 Like

What second wheelset did you pick? I have a BMC Time Machine as well and only have the clinchers that came with it. On other bikes, I run tubeless set ups and was a bit hesitant to return to clinchers as I have had great success not flatting on tubeless. I am now more comfortable setting up and maintaining tubeless than I am changing out tubes.

1 Like

The wheels that came with it were 50-60, so I went with Vision Metron 81s front and rear. I wanted a pure aero set so I could mix and match according to terrain and conditions. We also have a 1 mile flat sprint TT race nearby that they would be perfect for. But I love the ones that came with it. I will post a pic as soon as they are ready!

1 Like

Here they are on the bike. :grin:

7 Likes

Dumb question, but what do I do if I get a flat while riding? Let’s assume it’s small and doesn’t require a plug. Will the tire go flat and all I need to do is pump it up, or will it stay inflated thanks to the sealant? Basically, should I carry a C02 because any flat will need to be filled up, or does the sealant prevent flats full-stop (unless it’s a major slice)? Thanks!

You probably won’t even know you got a puncture

2 Likes

It really just depends. You may not notice. Or, it may squirt all over and you end up at 30psi by the time it seals. Or, it doesn’t seal and you need to plug it.

If you get a squirter, I’d pull over immediately and put my finger on the hole. Then I’d rotate it to the bottom and then modulate the air with my finger and try to get it to seal. Definitely don’t let all your air and sealant just leak all over the road. If it doesn’t seal, plug it. On my gravel bike, I’ve been able to plug leaks and not lose all my air and sealant.

3 Likes
  1. once a week or so, open and close your valves. If you’re riding them week in week out, no need to worry as you’d be doing this to top up tyre pressure, but if you leave it a few weeks you might need pliers to open the valves next time. How much of an issue this will be depends on the valves and sealant you use and how long they’ve been in use, but a simple regular job.
  2. at the same time, check to loosen and tighten the lock nut on the tubeless valve. It only needs to be finger tight to keep the seal. If the valve has seized on and you get a major flat, you won’t even get as far as seeing if you can get the tyre off at the roadside to put a tube in. Unless you have pliers in your kit…

Good luck with them!

1 Like

If its tiny you’ll not notice it. You’ll lose circa 5-10psi and it’ll seal you won’t have to do anything. Even a larger hole that seals won’t really be noticed apart from the line of sealant spray on the ground/ seat tube :joy:

Very occasionally a hole will be on the side of the tyre and you may need to dismount and put the wheel on its side to get the sealant to it.

The one exemption to the above is the Finishline never dry out formula, that should be avoided. It cant seal anything properly and the tyre will gradually deflate :-1:. As said avoid that :+1:

1 Like

Just got back from my first ride on the wheels/tires. Performed marvelously. We even hit some gravel sections.
I don’t plan on using them all the time, but the mechanic said to just put some air in them regularly, which will take care of the opening and closing the valves. Thanks for all the help!

And some of the gravel…

7 Likes

Maybe some can enlightened me here. So I had to replace my tire due to a cut on the sidewall. I did lose some sealant before it sealed. I had to hold tire on its side after using a CO2 cartridge. Upon removal when I got back home the only visible liquid in the tire remaining looked like water. It is Stan’s sealant. Did I loose the sealant and liquid was condensation from the CO2? Does the color leave first trying to seal a bigger hole? I did do a long 7 hour ride in the rain a week before. But there is no way rain got inside the tire. I am having trouble figuring out what happened.

Thanks

GP5000TL - good enough to win at The Tour. Twice.

image

5 Likes

That’s what’s left of your sealant. Im guessing it’s been in the tire 3+ months. The latex in the sealant sticks to the tire over time and what’s left behind is water.

1 Like

Besides what cwiggum said, the coldness of the CO2 will change the chemical properties of your sealant, too.

2 Likes

Thanks for the input. The sealant was probably only a month old but what you are saying does explain it I believe. That and the other reply related to the Co2. That was my first time using CO2 on a tubeless setup. You guys are great I couldn’t find much on Google on the subject.

1 Like