Had two punctures not seal with Stans/Giant sealant.
Switched to Orange Seal and it has sealed every subsequent leak so far!
2 Likes
Would you recommend this Orange seal for GP5000 ?
Unfortunately I have around 2-3mm cut in my tyre and Stans can’t fix it… 
The options i see is change the sealant, somehowe fix the cut or start riding with tubes…
any suggestions ? Thanks
I don’t know if Orange seal will help you here or not as I haven’t used it. Where is the cut in the tire? Can you use a plug to fix it?
I’ve not had to do this yet, but I think the general recommendation is apply a vulcanizing rubber patch from the inside sidewall if you are concerned that a plug won’t be enough.
Check out dynaplugs as well - they are well regarded and people often leave them in until the tires wear out - but again, I’ve been fortunate enough to not ever have used the ones I carry!
I had a massive puncture last night, sealant everywhere, unfortunately I was on my wheel-on trainer at the time.
Anyone else had issues when running tubeless on a wheel on trainer? Is it really not recommended? I was just being lazy not bothering to swap in my dedicated trainer wheel.
I’d say if it isn’t sealing with just sealant, try a plug.
1 Like
I don’t understand the infatuation with Schwalbe tires, so many puncture/flat stories out there that I definitely don’t want to risk it.
I have been using some s-works turbo 28s, going commando. Just realized that I had a sidewall cut in my rear tire the other week when I was doing a roller ride and the rear wasn’t holding pressure above 35 psi. So while it got me home, I don’t trust it enough to keep riding it like I do on my mountain bikes/gravel/cross tires. The higher pressure is the biggest issue wrt road tubeless, another big reason to run relatively lower pressure so it doesn’t blow out all the sealant. The cost of the spesh tires though wasn’t bad, around $60, but the setup was SUPER easy.
Just to add to an earlier discussion about using tire levers to finish the tire… if one is messing up the rim tape, that was a bad tape job or some serious hamfisting to get that tire on there.
Just my limited experience with road tubeless… I’ve been running Schwalbe G-One Speed TLE (30c) on my gravel bike for road riding on the crappy roads of DC and Northern Virginia for the past 4 months or so. No issues at all with about 500 miles on the set and there have been plenty of glass, steel plates, potholes, etc. to deal with and I hop on every bit of gravel or dirt I can find along the way.
Fingers crossed!
I use a tubeless Shimano C24 wheel and Bontrager R3 tire on the trainer and it’s been fine. It’s a solid rim bed, so that removes tape as a potential issue.
One problem I did encounter–a Dynaplug which had been working fine on the road for a while failed almost immediately on the trainer. I contacted Dynaplug out of curiosity and they said the heat buildup from trainer use would definitely cause the plug to fail. I replaced the tire.
couple weeks ago at about 270 miles was on Wed group ride and heard a loud pop and gushing of air. Didn’t seal and had to reach for dynaplug kit. Sad panda:
That pic shows the fixed cut - it was about 0.3 inch long. Only had 1 dynaplug with me, and wasn’t smart enough to remember the instructions said to fold the plug over and insert again if air was still leaking. So I put a tube in and rolled home.
Fixed for the 60 mile ride tomorrow. Now its hard to be certain, but I’m pretty darn sure 18 months ago the S-Works Turbo Pro tubeless had a similar gash (piece of metal) and it sealed up. At the moment I’m going to say the S-Works are still tops overall in my experience: better handling, plenty of miles, and better at sealing up gashes vs GP5K and Schwalbe Pro One.
Oddly enough, while on the road I removed tire, installed tube, and thumbed tire on. But not today. After cleaning tire and rim it refused to go on. Tried all the tricks and it wouldn’t go on. Ended up pulling out a Zipp Tangette RT-25 and thumbing it on. Weird.
My tyre that popped on the trainer didn’t have any dynaplugs but it does have plenty of cuts that have sealed up - I assume it was an old wound re-opening.
I did my first ride on GP5K TLs this past weekend, a 120km ride. I had them set up a couple of weeks ago to make sure they’d be OK for this ride as it’s a one way ride out to local brewery for a charity Oktoberfest through mostly rural roads. The front seemed to be losing air at a faster rate than the rear so I had taken it off, retaped and remounted it. It took two people with levers to get it on the rim. Friday I decided to top up the sealant and noticed on both wheels that a bit more sealant worked its way out around the bead while deflated. Once inflated (after a track pump head failure and trip to the LBS for a new one) they held up fine and are still holding air quite well.
As far as the ride, they are fine, not much difference I could tell from the Pro Ones and no punctures or cuts. We’ll see how well they wear compared tot he Pro Ones.
This was my first season on tubeless tires so I’m a bit new to the whole experience. Are you saying that the ability of a tire to seal from a puncture is a function of both the tire and the sealant? My understanding (admittedly not too experienced) was that the ability to seal from a puncture was 99% the sealant and not the tire - and of course highly variable based on the type and size of the hole
Wish I knew the answer to that!
1 Like
IMO, it’s the sealant that seals the hole and the tyre has very little to do with it. Of course, a lot depends on where the hole is, the size and how good the sealant is whilst there’s also a certain amount of luck involved.
I run tubeless on my mountain bike and gravel bike and love it. I wouldn’t ride mtn or gravel any other way.
My gravel bike tires mount up easy by hand so I’m not too concerned with the worst case scenario of being out by myself on a country road and needing to install a tube to get home.
However, reading through this thread about how much trouble people are having mounting the road tubeless tires makes me wonder - What do you do when you are out on a long ride and have a puncture that doesn’t seal with sealant or plug and you are forced to install a tube to get home?? How about in cold weather when the tire is cold and your hands are cold as well? I’d be hesitant to run any tire/wheel combo where I could not mount the tires by hand. I’ve run Conti 4000s for years on multiple wheels and have never needed a lever to mount.
1 Like
Got some Schwalbe tubeless G-One 29er Tubeless tyres on the MTB. Last outing on the real road, two punctures, both sealed within 30 seconds with Stans. Both whilst going slow up hill, good spray of Stans on my Garmin Radar and seat discovered afterwards, must have been whilst wheel spun very slowly around (17-23% hill)!
Previous trip out, double puncture on front, took between 30-50 seconds to seal, did almost stop to place finger over holes to help seal but eventually sealed before I got around to doing that.
For info I run 50psi on both and didn’t add any more air whilst out. I don’t go off road much with this road wheel set, have another tubeless WTB set for that.
Wouldn’t go back to regular tubes, but on any long trips I’ll always carry one just in case.
Always get local bike shop to set up tubeless and I top them up myself as required.
1 Like
Most bikes are now coming with “tubeless-ready” wheels, so you are dealing with this issue whether you are running tubeless or not…so after suffering a rash of flats this year and occasionally haivng to call the “Uber of Shame”, I figured I might as well go tubeless.
So far, so good…running Conti 5000TL on Profile Strike wheels. ~70psi on 28’s at ~70kg / 155 lbs.
1 Like