Thanks that video is great.
I really hope they release another Madone Speed
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You donāt need to cover them at all. But a wrap of tape or something similar would stop any muck/water from getting in, and stop the tails from flapping around. Sections of latex inner tube slipped over the bar before the STI levers go on would be stupidly neat and tidyā¦ Unfortunately I donāt know of any black latex tubes, and I think butyl would be a bit too tight. If you have an all-in-one aerocockpit with cable tidies on the underside (I have a Canyon CP10 - not sure if others have this), you might be able to just poke the connectors back into the bar.
No room for more bikes? 
I have a one bedroom flatā¦I have 5 bikesā¦4 are in the loungeā¦that said at present the only woman who would complain is my catā¦and she just thinks my spare deep section aero front wheel is a scratching post! 
Joking aside a TT bike is very specific - if I could have only one it would be a Canyon Aeroad with clip on bars that I could easily remove. Still no replacement for a TT bike though as I was reminded when I raced mine for the first time on Tuesday!
I think that depends on what the junction box is and where it is in a Di2 setup. The under-stem 5 port junction would make it trivial to disconnect aero bar shifters when you remove the bars (no wiring to the brake hoods necessary).
Yes! Itās better to get another seatpost if you want this, as the height and min/max depth difference between the two āseat tubesā for the different positions was such that cutting the post for the Tri position meant it was too short for the TT position in my case.
Take a look at the Redshift Clip-on Aerobars and Seatpost (which shifts your saddle easily between the road and TT positions).
Using the 5 port di2 junction means you can leave the wiring intact, and just plug the aerobar shifters in when you need them. I use this with the Canyon H36 bars (the Canyon bars have a recess under the bars for the junction).
I donāt have hands-on experience with SRAM etap, but I think with road shifters, you have to plug in the extensions. So it may not be as neat as you think.
Is the under-stem 5 port junction box something you need to fix yourself or get your lbs to do for you?
Depends, I think. If a bike has a 3 port under-stem (cockpit) junction then a straight swap for the 5 port is trivial (tool-free in fact!) If a bike has bar-end or an in-frame junction then re-wiring becomes necessary either to replace the existing junction (AFAIK you can only have one) or try an earlier suggestion to wire up the sprint shifter ports in the hoods and leave 2-port junctions poking out of the bar tape near the stem. I do not know for certain that sprint shifter ports are compatible with either of Shimanoās aero shifter types. Failing that, there is a Y-type cable thatās often used for adding extra shifters. My Tri bike has a pretty fugly setup for the brake levers and the aero shifters using a Y cable as it has a frame junction - should have ignored that and just got the 5-port under-stem
The Madone Speed (pictured with the TT bar) is mechanical as a complete bike and I think the Di2 equivalent is supposed to be the SLR 7. The SLR 7 is all hidden cables and has a bar-end junction, so not a straight swap and possibly a world of pain.
Take the above advice with a pinch of salt, Iāve built two Di2 bikes so far so not the most experienced.
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This + di2 junction box at your stem is the answer. I have exact same dilemma as you not wanting to do two bikes (yet) and Iāve been really happy with it so far. Previously, I had Di2 wired from downtube going up to left hood, then a connection from left to right hood, and finally from right hood to bar end charging port. What I did was insert the smaller and cheaper 4 port junction box right under my stem. The front two ports remain occupied continuing the connection from left to right hood with new shorter wires. The rear two ports then accept wires from each aerobar di2 shifter. Works beautifully, and can have the bars mounted on and off in 30 seconds total for both bars, including shifting wire connection. I chose to make the rear facing ports the place I connect to minimize wire bends and they are also oriented so that no debris gets in them when riding without the bars, but you can optionally put di2 caps on Iād you want.
I though about using sugru to mold the junction box to the stem (for aero!) but the 4 port one is so small I didnāt really see the point!
The whole setup is great and in local TT segments, Iām holding my own with TT bikes at similar power just fine.
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The BMC tri Timemachine allows you to move everything to the back using the same post.
When used on triathlon āmodeā you can put a util box back there.
If you want to use it on UCI rules then you remove the box and move the seat post back.
https://us-en.bmc-switzerland.com/timemachine-01-frs-301844.html
but of courseā¦ it is not cheap