Holy moly my message got “Akismet has temporarily hidden your post” and i have no idea what happened…
Anyway before it got released again, quick thoughts:
1.I didn’t use soapy water to seat the tyre, so with the floor pump, it just didn’t held air at all, i wonder if the soapy water can actually do the magic, do you have the experiences both with and without soapy water?
2.I usually ride 60 psi with the tubeless setup, and what’s weird for me is that the tyre might held air just fine inside the house without any major issue, but once i take it outside on a ride it starts leaking air noticeably, it seems like sometimes it leaks sometimes it doesn’t, i have only been seat the tyre and injected the sealant for 8 days, not sure if that’s normal.
Well, i’m so curious now, correct me if i’m wrong, when you install the tyre on those wheels, the two sides of the tyre bead are actually “sit” in the middle the the “groove channel” of the rim, right?
My question to you is how do you actually use a floor pump to seat the tyre, aka poping the tyre bead from the middle groove channel to the sides of the rim? What’s your trick here i guess is my question
There are always tire and rim combinations that do not pop on with just a floor pump. However, the S TRs and Spesh 2BR just inflated with a normal floor pump. There was no trick. I just pumped fast and it worked.
Most others for me went on with the pressure from the pressure chamber on my floor pump.
The ENVE 6.7 is in my case also the world’s largest wheel in diameter. That’s exaggerated of course, but tires hardly go over the rim, and are really really tough to push back into the rim bed once installed.
I could probably make that tire pop with a hand pump.
Well well well, what can i say.
“I could probably make that tire pop with a hand pump.” ——I guess you are actually able to pump as fast as your speed on the bike
“really really tough to push back into the rim bed once installed.”——That’s my experience as well, but i just wasn’t able to seat them with the floor pump, i guess some push-ups are what i need.
Anyhow i just gave it another try, i pumped the tyre all the way till 80psi for the first time, as previously i only pump them to 60psi cause that’s what i usually ride on with 28mm tyre, i will see if it can held air this time, if air-leaking still exists i guess taking off the tyre and re-tape is probably my only choice then.
What psi are you riding on and what’s your weight if it’s comfortable for you to share.
Your rim is a certain size. Your tire is a certain size. There are specifications and they are a range of sizes. Now say your rim is slightly larger, at the top end of the specification. And your tire is at slightly smaller, at the bottom of specifications. That will make that rim/tire combo harder to install than a slightly smaller rim and slightly larger tire.
I just follow the SRAM AXS Tire pressure tool here.
The width is NOT the measured, but the nominal width here. Also, a GP5000S TR or any other road racing tire is a „standard“ not a „thin“ casing. Those are just TT tires.
70kg BW, 58/61 on 28c S TR on 21TSS enve 2.3.
A little lower for 28s on the 4.5 or 6.7s.
Hi, what you said is totally true, i wondered where i can find this type of “size-matching map”? I googled it but didn’t find any, The new enve3.4 ses has internal width of 25mm and outer widthe of 32mm, i measured it slightly larger on both ends.
Damn, the enve 27mm tyre measured 28mm on the new enve 3.4, i weigh about 55kg and run 58psi on the front and 65 psi on the rear cause i feel like slightly unstable on the fast corner if the pressure is lower than say 50psi on the front.
FYI i’m pretty ok at fast corners and descents, in fact the crash i had a week ago was probably the only one in the last 2-3 years.
Those pressure are significantly higher than Enve’s recommendations.
Why do you run such high pressures in the rear? I weigh significantly more (75 kg), and I only put about 60 psi in my tires (57–60 psi front, 60–63 psi in the rear).
Also, why is there such a large pressure difference between front and rear?
1.“why is there such a large pressure difference between front and rear?”——Good point, i guess i’m just used to it riding it this way.
2.“Those pressure are significantly higher than Enve’s recommendations.”——Well, according to their recommendations with your weight, the pressure should be 41-43psi with the new enve wheelsets paired with 27-31mm width tyre.
3.Like i said, i have tried it with 40 psi on the front, 50 on the rear, just feel sluggish and unstable on the corner, not sure if it’s my mental thing or what.
I don’t think this is recommended. If you e. g. use SRAM’s pressure calculator, then the pressure recommendations I have seen are +/- 5 psi between front and rear.
Why don’t you follow SRAM’s recommended pressures and see how that works for you? I’d definitely stop putting an additional 10 psi in the rear, that seems like a bad idea, especially at such low pressures and such a low rider weight.
Ok, thanks for your suggestion, i will certainly try that tyre pressure combo as soon as my tyre pressure are stable on the wheels.
It has been 9 days since i seated the tyre and injected sealant, like i said i can only describe this tubeless setup as unstable, like yesterday before bed i pumped the tyre all the way to 70psi, leave it overnight and check it in the afternoon the next day, it holds air pretty well, not much has leaked, but once i got out on the ride, it started leaking air noticeably that i have to pump it up with a CO2 inflator.
So i’m still worried if the tyre pressur is “too low” at 50psi something, it might leak air like crazy.
FYI the only reason i haven’t yet pull off the tyre check or maybe re-tape the rim is just because of the “unstable situation” i haven’t not yet found any reasonable explanation for that, there is no sealant leaking or obvious leaking location anywhere i can find, so i didn’t do it straightly; if the air-leaking is consistently inside or outside i would’ve pulled them off long time ago.
Well, this is the mysterious part isn’t it? Why it doesn’t leak air inside the room but it does during the ride?
I have no idea. But like the gentlemen above suggested it might just be the bad taping, i will probably give it another go, if the problem still persists on the ride i will pull them off and re-tape.
For those with taping issues, I’ve found that Muc-Offs tubeless tape works extremely well and is easy to apply. On 3.4AR’s I use the 25mm size. The roll of tape “fits inside” the rim so when you run the tape its very easy to keep everything straight. I’ve been running only a single layer but I do overlap a bit near the valve. For those who like Silca’s sealant, the Muc-Off tape holds up to it.
I’ve starting using Vittoria Airliners and at the same time switched to Muc-Offs newer tubeless valves. I poke a tiny little hole in the tape with a hobby tool (import to make the whole small) and then push the valve through. I’ve found a lot of the leaking can happen around the valve but with this approach it hasn’t leaked. The Muc-Off valves then allow you to inject sealant through them with an injection tool. For road, I now switched back to Orange Seal from Silca, so I can use the injector tool.
I just mounted a set of 32 GP5000 S TRs with Airliners on my 3.4ARs. They were tight going on, but easily inflated and held air right off the hop. Once the tire was set I injected 2 ounces of sealant through the valve. This is going to me my set up for a 2 week camp in Maui start late next week, so will be a good test as the roads, especially on the East Maui Loop, can be a bit harsh.
Hi very useful tips, but if i remember correctly 3.4AR also has the internal width of 25mm which i think according to enve’s recommendation should use the tape of 29mm width, but i think it is ok if it just works.
Good luck on the camp next week, sounds like a good training camp
But like the gentlemen above suggested it might just be the bad taping, i will probably give it another go, if the problem still persists on the ride i will pull them off and re-tape.