Is a crank based power meter not a safer option for MTB?
SRM is pricey and I never have seen one. They announced them for years now.
Only pedal based SPD cleat system is SRM, iQ2 and this hack? Power Meter Pedals: Favero Assioma // Xpedo SPD Hack // Gravel Power! - YouTube
IQ2 also has an MTB pedal based system and it is in pre-order too. Who knows when it will ship but it definitely looks like things are coming down the pipeline. The x-power comes in around $1200 so while it’s not cheap, it’s also not the usual “SRM price point” lol.
Crank based is definitely always an option but it’s not necessarily more economical (at least not materially so) and the pedals let you swap between bikes pretty easily.
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I’m hesitating for the IQ2 (Kickstarter…)
Shimabo M520’s cost £30 or less and come with cleats, so I’d just try them in your case. They are bombproof, just a bit heavy, but you could upgrade to more pricier, very slightly lighter ones later.
Compared to crankbrothers they are more sturdy, the click/release more definite, and easier to ride without being clipped in.
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I rode the same Sidi’s at 2 different Leadville 100’s separated by 7 years. They are worth the cost and the weight. I did finally buy a new pair this year but mostly because I needed to go to the mega sizing.
For pedals I have one set of XTR pedals I think I bought them in 2012 and they have been on about 9 different mountain bikes and I couldn’t even tell you how many hours and races. I bought a pair of XT pedals on black Friday to back up the XTR’s I think around 2013 or 2014 that are still in the box.
Quarq PM if you can afford it. I have DUB on all MTB’s so a crank swap is roughly about the same level of difficulty as a pedal swap.
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yeah that’s a good idea, i should check em out. Who knows, i might even like the SPDs better. w/r/t crankbrothers, i like the level of float that you can achieve. The one thing i don’t like is that once the cleats get even the slightest bit worn, you get a bit of play in a plane that you don’t want it to move. Less so with the candies (because of the small platform) but definitely some play with the eggbeaters. Float side-to-side (i.e. “yaw”) is good, “roll” is less good (at least in my opinion)
I ride Garneau. Happens to be the brand that my professional bike fitter likes, too. So that gives me confidence. The make a couple options including a nice xc shoe with boa closure.
I’ve not noticed roll in any worn cleats. I had some side-to-side float but that’s because i busted the end cap on my Candy 7 and it was the whole pedal moving on the spindle. That was a 10 dollar fix with Crankbrother’s help.
That said, i did just replace mine today because i figured after a season (and since i have a couple floating around) they should be replaced.
actually looking further, crank-based may not actually be an option here, since the bike is a Cannondale with the Ai offset. Maybe there’s some way of using shims and spacers to get an acceptable solution, but for example the quarq website i think says flat out that they are not compatible.
This might fit? https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-XX1-Eagle-DUB-SL-Crank-incl-Quarq-DUB-AXS-Power-Meter-Spider-BOOST-32-teeth
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P2M makes one specifically noted for Cannondale Ai offset, so you may have luck with them.
For example: https://www.power2max.com/en/product/ngeco-mtb-cannondale-power-meter-ai/
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I am a big fan of Lake shoes. CX238 is the one i use.
And XT race pedals - you can never go wrong with those.