Forgot integrated cables
You are right 42T is ok. I have 44T with 52 in the back in my MOG and it’s 
I was talking the other end of the cassette… if 44/52 works for you easy gear, a 38/44 will give you nearly the same, with nicer gaps… A 38/10 gets you well over 30mph. Dylan ran only a 36/10 at Leadville, which is known for its fast pavement pack dynamics. A 42t or 44t is too much, with no real benefit. I know the 10t isn’t ideal, but also, you’re not going to be in that often, and a 38t probably gets you a better chainline for the most used gears, and a better chainline in the min/max gears. Its although worth considering, that a 2.25" tire at 38/10 gets you nearly 1.5mph more speed than a 40mm tire at the same cadence.
And the internal routing is another miss for Mosaic most likely… You’ll need a 52mm upper bearing for internal routing with a standard steerer(as found on suspension forks), so you’re looking at some aftermarket(Acros, Token, etc) option. I know there is the 44mm Enve In Route setup for Chris King, but blah! Also, a suspension fork is always going to have a big brake hose loop sticking out front, so I’m less concerned about saving 10" of rear brake hose by headset routing on mtb’s.
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Just saw this over on YT…thought it may be of interest. Kinda digging it, TBH.
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Love it! Since softails are making a comeback, let’s push for suspension stems and disk wheels again. Can’t forget bar ends either. What’s old is new right?
I’ll never understand why no one rides with bar ends anymore….flat bars just put your wrists at an uncomfortable angle. I don’t have a MTB anymore, but even when riser bars were the rage, I ran bar ends (even though it looked god awful).
No way I could run flat bars alone….and especially not at today’s widths.
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Ordered the RYET rigid fork to make it pair with an 2019 Obea Alma frame. I was surprised myself the A-C size is less than the “default” 490mm. Picture is a rough estimate.
Measured like this
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Meh…with the current trend of +700mm bar widths, aero doesn’t really seem to be much of a concern overall.
imo older style bar ends made sense with narrower bars, but with the new modern bars, inner bar ends are nice as you can use a traditional grip position and have the option of a narrower inner bar end position
Yeah, just to be clear…I’m not arguing for outer bar ends over inner ones necessarily. I’m just advocating for bar ends of some kind and it befuddles me that they have largely gone out of style.
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Yes this is the gravel bike of the future. We should all have one of this plus:
- A fast/light road bike
- A groad bike
- A proper MTB
4 bikes minimum.
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What was surprising about this measurement? The product page lists 454mm. This is one of the 3 different forks you can buy from AliX right now with a 460~ AtoC.
Bar ends were great for heaving on the bars, when grinding uphill in gears that were too big. Bikes come with lower gears now so they bar ends are largely extinct.
Because I believe @wintermute posted that the RYET fork pictured earlier (7th Jan) on in this post with A-C measurement of 454mm was a 27.5 fork not 29. He said "No other 29er fork on Aliexpress is 454, they are all 490. "
Do I have a 27,5 fork??
This gap with the 180mm front rotor might be tricky
The problem is that this bike is not fast enough for fast gravel and you don’t want to mess your $15k road bike in the dirt, so yeah 4 bikes
I’d be interested, given your experience and perspective - what would you consider to be solid geometry for the drop bar MTB - head angle range and STA range specifically!
Hey Upcountry, it’s been a while with your Epic rig, how has it been for you? Any new changes?
More specifically, how do you feel about the trail figure of your bike? My calculations have me at about 76-80mm… depending on tire size.
With usual gravel trail figures in the 60’s, i’m not sure what kind of handling characteristics to expect. Maybe someone could enlighten me, or share their experiences.
Yea, aero frame. I have a BMC Kaius on 35’s and that thing is fast 
If you’re planning to go narrow on the bars, installing an angleset “backwards” to make the head tube angle steeper is a great way to control the wheel flop without making your seat tube angle even steeper.
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I thought it was that bar ends liked to snag on things. Thats why i dropped them at least.
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