For that Pike assembly the piston head looks like it comes off just by pushing out the cross pin. I’ve never owned a Pike but I have seen it on some Xfusion forks I’ve worked on.
I’m not sure why you’re trying to make this complicated unless you have first hand experience on models where it truly is.
Well, a majority of modern mid-high end forks require more tools than your x-fusion fork. You shouldn’t offer your experience on a single brand of fork as a universal suspension modification. It is simply misleading.
I suppose the conclusion here is that all forks are different, look up the service manual for your specific fork before following advice from an internet forum and you end up with a garden hose in your fork.
you can also reduce fork travel by zip tying the fork arch to the fork crown lmao
I’m addressing the picture you posted. It is not misleading to point out whatever you picked out has a more simple solution.
You shouldn’t offer your experience on a single brand of fork as a universal suspension modification. It is simply misleading.
You’re really trying hard to accomplish something here, why?
yes it was poster earlier in thread. for center lock 12x100/12x142 to boost spacing for brake alignment.
will not work on CK rear hub though, due to preload collar design. works fine on my CK front and all my DT setups though.
new 27.5 fork has A2C closer to 460mm which is cool with me.
plenty of clearance for a 2.25x29 schwalbe on a roval control SL 29mm ID rim.
Hey brother, try this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqituHM
Spacer kit for 142 to 148. Only issue is the silver 6 bolts, not to mention banking on you running a 6 bolt set up.
And you have to redish the wheel.
With 2 3mm spacers on both sides of the hub, why would that be needed?
I think ya’ll may be talking about 2 different types of rear conv kits?
One kind uses 3mm on both sides, one has just 6mm on the NDS.
sometimes shifting can be off (not getting all cogs) with the former kind.
Hey Pottery, can I get some more photos of that 2nd tan fork? Made by TOSEEK right? I am looking at that one right now on AliEx, 460 A to C I believe.
I tried one with a 454 A to C, but it was just a bit too steep, and bit too low of a reach. I needed too much spacers under my stem… i’m 6ft with a long inseam.
You’re talking less than 5mm of actual stack difference between these two mentioned, and less than a 1/4 of a degree of HTA. So you might want to bump up to at least the more commonly available 470mm options if you’re hoping to notice any difference…
Point taken, thanks. I am coming from a 72 degree head angle gravel bike, Carbonda 696, with a 100mm stem.
I don’t mind moving to a shorter stem with a taller fork, but I worry about that wheelbase being too long. Overall, I am building this to replace that gravel bike, I use it for racing, mainly because i’m really looking forward to running race kings or burts. Any suggestions from your experience would be appreciated.
2nd fork is a 500mm A2C Seido BPC (also sold under some other brands).
ah maybe I misunderstood, do you mean the 2nd fork in the first pic of 4 forks or the fork pictured in the 2nd pic? the latter is an sp cycles 27.5 mtb rigid fork.
Laurens Ten Dam (ex-pro cyclist turned gravel racer) is building a drop bar S-Works Epic World Cup as his Tour Divide bike. He will be using it for the first time later this month in the Andes mountains.
You can check out a highlighted story on his Instagram
Laurens ten Dam (@laurens_ten_dam) • Instagram-foto’s en -video’s
For anyone needing a visual of what this conversion does to the numbers:
I’m considering a 480mm fork vs my current 454mm fork , Here are the 2 options: Red bike is stock size M, blue is the dropped front end with the respective forks installed.
I will use this to replace my gravel bike, a 56 Carbona 696, granting me the clearance for larger tires, like @Upcountry’s build. I plan to run this on my XC trails around the AZ desert. Here’s what I can expect to see compared to my current Carbonda gravel bike:
This site has been a great visual aide, I highly recommend it for visualizing the changes before you take the plunge. bike-stats - everything about bike geometry
Now my only remaining “unknowns” are around handling. I want to avoid wheel flop, twitchy steering etc. My Carbonda 696 handles well with its 100mm stem, reactive but tame, but with the chunky descends I do around my trails, I wouldn’t mind a little more relaxed handling. If you have experience in this realm, and can elaborate on this matter, please chime in. My bars are 40mm with flare to about 480 at the drops. 77 reach. I plan to get a hold of a few cheap/beater stems to test length, but not sure where to start.
You can actually use bike-stats - everything about bike geometry to estimate your stem lenght aswell.
Under the visual of the different bikes, you can add stem lenght, bar width, bar drop, etc.
Just make sure you align based on the BB, otherwise it might give the wrong idea about the stack height.
As an example, this is my road bike vs drop bar MTB i’m building (I find i’m a bit short on reach on my road bike, so hoping this 70mm stem will be fine)
PS: If you want to put in the data for your dropped bars on the MTB. You have to chance, in the custom bikes menu, your MTB to a gravel bike with the same geometry data. Then go back to the comparison, and you can put in the data of your selected drop bar.
Can you clarify how you’re expecting to fit the two options compared to the 696?
The 454 looks like it wouldn’t be possible to fit without a big change to setback, the 480 seems like it might work.
