One question about bike-stats.de
How would you enter first gen Canyon Grail CF (hoverbar)geometry in there? Ive tried the “normal” way, then tried to edit the headtube longer, even tried using those Reach+ and Stack+ measurements from canyon but nothing comes close to what i actually measure from saddle to handlebar(from seat height at the middle of seatpost).
Hi,
In the “Compare geometries” tab. I would put in your chosen frame. Then under the picture, you can put in your saddle height, stem, etcetera. Under “Handlebar Rise” you could put in the height of the hoverbar.
Then you get something like this:
I went with 10cm of rise, which is obviously too much, but you get the idea. This should get the height and distance from the saddle or bottom bracket to the hoods correct.
Thanks. Thats one thing i have not tried.
Edit. Correction, putting in the reach+ and stack+ from canyon, then putting stem lenght to 0, headset stack to 0, stem angle 0, handelbar reach 70mm, drop 130, width 420 and then reduce that handlebar reach from Saddle to handlebar horizontal figure it got close to what ive measured to center of handlebar. Geo pic looks funny af tho
Didnt work either. Mine is a size S, stock leafspring seatpost with 13mm setback. Ive measured horizontal (center of seatpost)saddle to center of handlebar to be aprox670mm at 735mm saddleheight(from bb). All i can get out of bikestats is something like 740-790mm for horizontal saddle to handlebar🤷🏽♂️
Edit. Handlebar rise is about 55mm on this bar. 75mm stem, 420width and 70mm reach, doesnt say stem angle anywhere?
Did you measure from the center of the seatpost to the center of the handlebars on your bike?
The measurement that bikestats.de gives is to the position of the hoods and not to the center of the bar:
So for your case, center of saddle to center of handlebar is 670mm (measured). Then add 70mm of reach in the handlebar. Then you get 670+70=740mm, which would be the distance that bikestats gives you 
You could also go measure on your bike, the horizontal distance from the saddle to the start of the hoods to double check.
All good now. I even doubblechecked with lazer. It just put me off that changing handlebar reach value to 0 did nothing to that saddle to handlebar number.
Hi crew. I converted my hardtail into a dropbar MTB and am now dialing in my fit. I‘d like to further drop my bars but am constrained to a 50mm stem due to long legs and short torso proportions.
I see three viable options to get the saddle to bar drop I‘m after:
-
shorter cranks: moving to 165mm cranks would raise my saddle 10mm and increase saddle to bar drop by the same amount. Problem is I‘m already maxed out at the seatpost.
-
negative stemangle: hard to find one with 50mm reach. I have long legs and short torso and can’t run a longer stem because the bike gets too long otherwise unfortunately.
-
shorter Airshaft: I could drop my 32 SC to 80mm travel. Assuming I leave 25% sag constant I‘d drop my frontend by 15mm. I‘d additionally steepen the seatpost and steering angle and marginally lower the bb.
I‘m most interested in this third option as I assume with a steeper headangle I‘d reduce the trail(?), which would quicken up the steering (I assume?). What other implications are there with a lower front end in terms of handling? Are there any downsides at all (apart from cost?).
Syntace Flat Force might be a stem option for you:
I have one of those on my fatbike, I actually feel like the crazy negative angle effectively makes it even shorter than advertised.
Go for that airshaft option(and stem), my bike came in at 74SA and 72HA, and i think it rides great.
I worked on an iphone app to do that a couple years ago but the iphone sample frequency was too slow to be useful. I keep waiting for them to open up their sensors to faster data collection but I dont think its going to happen.
Can someone confirm me if im thinking this right…
I intend to replace my Canyon al slx 8.9 M frame with a Airwolf YFM-026 carbon frame.
I compared Airwolf YMF-026 to multiple gravel frames. The one I like is Storm Makai.
Consideration: if Airwolf has longer reach (~+25mm), I should be able to compensate longer Airwolf reach with shorter steam. And effectively I get the same reach as a gravel bike. Does that sound reasonable?
Since you know about the Storm Makai, I probably assume you also know the previous generation beach racing bike from Storm, the Moana. The Moana has the same geometry as the Airwolf YFM-026 (and a Santa Cruz Highball for that matter).
I built up an Airwolf YFM-026 myself (pics and details are upthread). Went with a Large frame. Started out with a 70mm -7° stem, but that felt a bit long, so I swapped to a 60mm -35°. A Medium might’ve fit better, but I didn’t want too much seatpost showing.
I love the bike, I commute on it multiple times per week, use it as a gravel bike, and use it in beach races during winter. It’s easily my most used bike. The only downside are the BB tolerances, they are pretty rough. I used a Token thread-together BB at first, but this would creak like crazy. Now I have a standard SRAM DUB-BB with the nylon cups. These cups deformed enough to fill up the gaps in the not-so-round BB and stopped the creaking.
As i understand Airwolf YMF026 can handle up to 46t chain ring, whereas Moana can fit 40t chain ring without any offsets (I called them to clarify). Im not 100% sure it’s the same frame.
Either way, your setup looks sich.
Whats your height and what size frame did you purchase? did you have to purchase size smaller?
How big is your chain ring? i suppose it fits naturally, without any offset needed?
What is the fork you are running? if its airwolf, how is it lasting?
Thanks
I started with a 40t ring (as pictured), running a standard boost chainline (+3mm in the spider PM). Worked fine.
Now I’m on a 44t. At first it was way too tight, so I shimmed the crankset about 2mm toward the drive side to clear the chainstays (so it basicly has a +1mm offset now since my spider has +3mm, then shimmed -2mm). With that setup I can just slide a 3mm Allen key between the ring and stays. Shifting is solid with mechanical 12‑speed GRX.
And I’m pretty sure it’s the same frame. I specifically asked Airwolf to remove the cable holes on the drive side of the headtube (like on the Storm frames) since I didn’t need them anyway. They sent me a picture of a frame with the Storm logo on the headtube to confirm the change.
I’m 183cm with a 76,5cm saddle height. So I went with Large, but Medium probably would have been better
Yes, it’s the Airwolf fork.
that’s an awesome looking bike!
Keeping this thread alive… I’ve still got this World Cup, and just gave it a little refresh. Admittedly, it didn’t get ridden much at all this year, with my races(and therefore training) taking place on other bikes in the stable. I proclaimed my dislike for the Sram levers earlier in this thread, but they’ve obviously updated them to the E1 versions, and I’ve become fond of them, so I knew that I could give Sram another go on this bike. Shown here with a non-Brain 100mm Sid SL fork. Ironically the weight is within 50g of the prior iteration, with different wheels, tires, fork, handlebars, drivetrain and brakes, crankset, saddle… So still at 21.6lbs as shown. I’ve got one big international event later next year where this will be the perfect tool, which was the motivator for pulling this down of the hook in this blustery weather and swapping some parts.
