Sounds like manageability when it’s windy isn’t a big deal for you, but you could also consider 40 front/60 rear.
Enve’s sets come stock with a shallower front, hence the 2-digit model numbers, but there’s no rule that says you have to have matching depths with other brands. My all-around race wheels are Zipp 303 front/404 rear and they serve me well.
I’d go(and frequently do go) 60mm. Above 20-22mph, my 62mm’s really carry their speed more than my 46mm wheels do. And even with the cornering mentioned, on most courses you won’t be dropping much below 20mph. If you’re worried about wind on the 60mm’s remember that you most likely won’t be as subject to them in a crit when you’ll most likely be in a bunch, who can buffer you from the wind, especially if you use your head and ride on the sheltered side of the peloton. And should you be off the front, then you can afford the luxury of getting pushed around a bit and pick your own lines.
Vegan Cyclist did a crit vid where he interviewed the winner who said being solo off the front allowed him to take all the inside lines whereas the pack swung wide on every corner…he said the pack was going faster than he was but his line choice was saving him maybe 1sec/corner (or 4sec/lap) over the group…so weirdly enough, he was going faster and slower at the same time. 
In other words, to the OP, you don’t need to have the biggest power or the fastest speed in order to ride a crit race.
My daily wheels are my crit wheels which are Roval CLX 64s. I live in SoCal, and have experienced wind and lots of climbing with them. I think they are some of the lightest wheels for that depth. I honestly haven’t noticed cross-winds too much, but I’m small and my bike is a 44 so don’t know if that has an effect.
I want some shallow cheap wheels, but can’t really justify them.
I’ve raced road and crits on expensive bikes.
If I was to do it again, I’d buy a cheap’ish bike such as Allez Sprint or Emonda ALR and second hand tubular wheels just for racing purposes.
Leave your nice bike for those long weekend rides where there is a less chance of crashing.
Tim
@Trippy Yep, standard spokes. I’ve run Enve’s with DT 240s, Chris Kings, and Enve hubs and they are all very nice. DTs are great if you want to never worry about anything, Chris King if you like servicing your own goods and want to have a pair of hubs for life. The Enve hubs are very sweet, but not for everyone.
thanks everyone, great input! Got the bike on Wednesday, unfortunately still in the box and cold here in Chicago, so have plenty of time to decide!
Well, I haven’t gotten the wheels, or been able to ride it yet as it just snowed here, but she’s alive! (Pardon the children insanity in the background). Soo excited!
Well color me jealous that this is your crit bike.
Crit, road race, group ride, coffee shop, whatever it is. I’ll justify it any way I can!
Not sure but isn’t it a no-no to clamp carbon by the top tube?? 
I would have thought it takes far less clamping force to keep the bike stable on the stand clamping on the top tube, than it does to hang it on the seat tube.
Never clamp the frame.
@agreif You’ve received great input from @Nate_Pearson, @Pete and others here recommending deeper wheel wells based on their speed advantage. However, one consideration I did not see mentioned was the skill level of riders you will be competing with. Presumably, you will be starting in Cat 5.
I just did the 1st Early Bird Crit clinic (in Fremont, CA) followed by a practice race this past Sunday. Thanks to TR training (SSB MV1), it was pretty close to a 50min endurance ride to hang with the lead group for the race (I.F. ave = 0.70) using Specialized Roval CLX 40s on a Roubaix - not exactly a race bike). When I asked the mentor how much faster a real Cat 5 crit will be, he said “not much” (ave speed for 14 laps@1.35mi/lap was 24mph).
HOWEVER, the skill level at Cat 5 can be sketchy (e.g. I got bumped pretty well by a rider taking a sloppy corner). Also, there are many riders who don’t know how to hold their line nor how to move in and out of a line and make sudden movements that you may need to be better prepared for than folks like @Pete, @Nate_Pearson, and @Jonathan might have to compete with in higher categories.
So one you thing you may want to consider is whether you can maneuver a bike with deep(er) wheels in the category(ies) you will be competing in.
Don’t fear people, I barely clamped it, less than a load you would put on it sitting on the top tube. if I couldn’t clamp on any carbon section then I would need to find a levitating bike stand since it’s all carbon. Seatpost is carbon and aero so replacing it with an AL post isn’t possible. I promise, all precautions were taken. 
Totally, I’ve ridden in cat5 and know exactly what you are taking about in terms of unpredictable riding. Great points all around.
This might be the distinguishing feature of a Cat.5 crit — everyone constantly shouting “HOLD YOUR LINE!!” 
I’m waiting for the providers of the Forum’s underlying service to offer an FB like emoji for LOL 
The early bird had been recommended, but we had plans and so I just picked up racing license last night. What events are you targeting? Not sure if I can make the TR meetup on the 26th, so figured I’d ask here.
Regarding wheels, I ride into the SF Bay Delta and its really windy out here. At least with the ENVE 5.6 Disc (54 front, 63 rear), they are well behaved on the flats. Out here big 20-30mph gusts will push any front wheel around a little, on both box rims and aero. The only time the front wheel feels twitchy is fast descents in windy conditions.
edit: and by well behaved I have no problem holding my line in a fast group at 20-35mph on the flats and small rollers. We generally end up doing 20-24mph into head/cross winds and its pretty brutal with the bad days carrying descriptions in my Strava activity like “17mph WSW with gusts up to 30”
