Check the formulas…looks like numerators and denominators are flipped.
For example: 34T chain ring and 40T cassette cog should be 34/40=0.85
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Few days old so you probably have an answer, but the 21T cog has a red ring on the T-type cassettes. It means that one is used to do the derailleur setup, along with the key A position for this configuration.
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Not too late. Thanks a lot!
I confirmed with SRAM, these are the parts I need:
- 170mm Force D2 Wide crankset - 00.6118.667.002
- 107 BCD Power Meter - 00.3018.229.00
- 44t 107 BCD chainring - 00.6218.014.004
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Yeah, according to the PowerMeterCity article, it works with both the D1 and D2 Wide Crankset. Not sure what the real difference is between them but the D2 appears to be the newest version.
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I’ve been thinking about this a bunch, and I think it might be a hard sell for me to buy the MOG, when the Fezzari Shafer is a $1700 Frameset. Doesn’t have integrated frame storage, but I can live with that.
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I have a Fezzari Empire and really like it for an endurance road bike. I looked hard at the Shafer but couldn’t get past the slack head tube angle. In discussions with several other people who own a Shafer and like it, they did admit that it isn’t the nimblest of gravel bikes. The price point and features are great, though, especially offering a “stock” build with the new SRAM Transmission. I do wish they’d offer some different colors, though, and a steeper head tube angle. The Mog looks like a great option, but I’d need someone to gift me a frame at that MSRP, though.
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Yeah, the handling is the only question. Not sure that matters to me though for this type of bike. Have a road bike, have an XC bike. This would be a do-all Gravel Bike where I feel like Stability usually buys me more than Agility.
I can definitely understand a slacker head tube angle for more stability for bike packing, especially if the front end is loaded. For me I just don’t see myself doing it that often, or for such long adventures, that I’d need to load up the forks, even though I’d like to - work and family just don’t allow it right now. I also don’t race so I’m looking for something with geometry similar to my endurance bike, which I think is a happy middle ground.
The Mog matches my Empire within 1-2 mm, but that price tag - ouch! I’ve mostly focused on the Seigla, but keep looking at the Revolt and Grizl in case a good deal comes up. (Anyone with some discount or team codes?) It also helps make the case to the wife for N+1 that the Seigla looks very different than the Empire (suspension fork, a little more slack but not too much, etc). I’ll have a harder time making that case if the two bikes look identical from the side. Additional tire clearance, 1x drive train, etc require a lot more explaination. 
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It’s not bike packing for me (although I wouldn’t rule it out), but most of the riding I’ve done so far anyways isn’t all that much about slower or quicker turns. It’s more faster / bigger descents on wider (but maybe rougher) gravel roads and covering ground. Stability in sand and loose stuff. Thinking mainly New England. And, most of my riding lately is on my MTB anyways.
If I’m on mostly pavement, my road bike can take 32’s and is reasonably comfortable (Factor Ostro VAM, not Ostro Gravel) and if it’s single track, I have a FS XC Bike with Front and Rear Lockouts (Orbea Oiz)
I do like the idea of the MOG, I’m just not sure I can sell myself on that much extra…
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Look around locally. I was able to buy the frame for 4K 
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For people following. These are SRAM recommendations for the build:
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the minimum recommended chainstay length is 425mm, as Transmission is primarily designed for MTB use
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With a 44t chainring, you would want a chain size of 120 links, and you will use the Setup Key in position A, and your Setup Cog will be 21t (the one with the red ring).
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We do officially recommend using the road wide cranksets for an application like this.
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so to install the XD cassette, they will want to use a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette, this is the same spacer as you would use to install a 10-speed cassette on an 11-speed splined HG style driver body
Set up is quite different from regular drivetrains:
Video:
Cheers
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Ok, got it built. Looks sweet. Will add some pics. 18.3lbs/8.3kg, with pedals, cages, tools, computer mount and computer.
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Where are these pics??
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Resurrecting an old conversation. Regarding the Fezzari Shafer:
Did you get a gravel bike?
I’m still very much stuck in analysis paralysis.
- Lauf Seigla WWW - pros: suspension fork, power meter, UDH / cons: suspension fork wobble (rare but not zero), high bottom bracket (feels like riding on top of bike vs in it), no fork mounts (not sure I’d use them, though), a little more slack than I might want (not sure)
- Giant Revolt Advance 1 (2022) - pros: geo close to my endurance road bike, highly recommended / rated by many different people / cons: likely upgrade bars, rear rotor to 160 mm for compatibility with my other bike; no PM, no suspension (add RedShift stem), not UDH
- Canyon Grizl - pros: well-regarded, competitive price / cons: geo is a bit wonky but could make it work, no PM, not UDH, no suspension
- Fezzari Shafer - pros: UDH, offer a build with Transmission / cons: slack head tube angle(1), no PM, no suspension
(1) Interesting note is that the new Stigmata 4 has a similarly slack head tube angle (0.6 degrees steeper in size medium at 69.5 degrees). Ben Delaney’s review was mostly positive, including the riding feel … so maybe I’m overthinking this … a lot.
Just like for road bikes, I know there is not a single do-it-all gravel bike. However, I’m only going to get one so I would like it to be as versatile as possible and be able to handle the occasional competitive event (I’m not competing for any podiums, but usually top 15-20%), decently-aggressive New England gravel while vacationing, northern Virginia bike packing (C&O Canal towpath), Shenandoah valley gravel (can get aggressive), etc.
Again, I keep coming back to the Seigla for best overall value but it is definitely a race bike and less adept for adventure riding, but I’ve seen enough pics and stories to know that people successfully do it on the Seigla (one guy even did the Tour Divide on one).
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I did not, and am going to push it off at least another year unless something changes. I ended up getting back into Leadville next year, and am upgrading my XC bike, so the gravel bike is getting pushed out a bit.
I am still actively window shopping and researching, so I’ll give you some of my random thoughts.
I have a road bike (Factor Ostro VAM) and an XC MTB (Orbea Oiz). So, I don’t need something to be great on the road, and I don’t need something for rowdier terrain and singletrack. I have a dedicated light 25mm wheelset with race kings, and F/R lockouts for the Oiz. Not giving up a ton there anyways.
Most of my riding on gravel, I’m looking for something that I’d classify as more on the stable end of things. Adventure, cruising. Etc. Not sure I’d ever do any bike packing. When I want quick, poppier, etc - I’m either on my road bike or my XC bike. Cruising gravel roads, long descents, etc. I’m going to do a 100+ road ride this weekend in NH that includes the Kanc. Want to be able to do more of those rides that include gravel.
I like the idea of the MOG, not sure I can in good faith pay that much for a frame with some of the other bikes in my list.
I actually like what I’ve seen from the Stigmata, and although more limited the Shafer too. I don’t want to over analyze specs, and am trying to listen to actual reviews. Ben Delaney’s Stigmata review for example.
I hadn’t been looking at the Giant Revolt, but recently started doing so.
I am personally looking at a rigid fork because of my XC bike, don’t need / want suspension. I will end up being firm on UDH, as I will probably run SRAM Transmission 1X as I have a lot of experience with that gearing on my MTB.
@BCM thank you for sharing. Your perspective / thoughts are very similar to mine, even though I don’t have a MTB (seen too many rider-tree interactions, none of which end well for the rider 
).
I also have a set of 25mm (inner width) wheels with some 31mm tires that I can put on my endurance road bike for very light gravel. I vacation in Maine each summer (almost due east of the Kangamangis Highway) and have taken it on a few of the dirt roads up there. Of the two loops I do most often, one road is definitely beyond what I should be taking a road bike on. There are a bunch of old logging roads I would like to check out but need a gravel bike with big tires to do so.
My other big desires are to do local gravel group rides in northern Virginia (think well-maintained country dirt roads), bike pack the GAP and C&O Canal from Pittsburgh to DC (middle section needs at least 40mm tires), and maybe some events in the Shenandoah Valley.
Other than the bike packing, I think the Seigla checks all those boxes. The Shafer, Revolt, and Grizl definitely do. Seigla and Shafer have UDH, Revolt and Grizl do not. While not an immediate upgrade, I also want the option to run Transmission.
The Lauf fork is intriguing, but also a concern. At least with a suspension stem I can easily switch it out.
Like you, I might end up waiting a while, mostly due to my inability to make a decision.
Anyway, thanks for sharing! And congrats on making it in to Leadville!!
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You’re describing the OPEN U.P(P.E.R.). Like the MOG, it ain’t cheap, but you aren’t going to find a better or more versatile ride. I’ve done everything from road to chunky singletrack (and some questionable class IV VT junk) on mine.
There are some light gravel roads in New England that you can run a roadie on (and I have),* but as you alluded to, a dedicated gravel bike opens up a lot more terrain and a lot more comfort on that terrain. Big long rides on road or dirt are my jam.
Isn’t it supposed to pour this weekend? Careful coming down the Kanc!
*the second scariest descent in NE is the west side of Lincoln Gap on 25s with rim brakes. The scariest is Black Bear at KT with jackwagons who screamed up the Haul Road on ebikes breathing down your neck barely in control of their bikes.
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