Yeah, that is “fake” power data in the form of overly smoothed info. It is not real and not something attainable with real power meters and related data.
- Here is the primary help file for PowerMatch:
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If you are asking about the difference between “Auto” and “Manual”, you typically want to use Auto. The delta between a trainer and power meter is not often a fixed number. If it was, and you knew that differential, you could use the Manual option.
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But more often than not, the difference in pure wattage shifts from low to mid to high power levels. Because of this, the Auto mode is best, so TrainerRoad can do dynamic adjustments to keep your power set appropriately based on your power meter.