I am keen to see how this works out… Or any further information on waxing AXS chains. I don’t have AXS yet, I am just waiting a little longer before pulling the trigger on it. Waxing is something I was wondering about.
Well, yes. I guess your right, don’t know where I got the disassembling part from.
But the point still stands about tighter possibly chains being less suited for wax.
@Nate_Pearson, have you considered trying to reduce the viscosity of the melted wax (or incresace, I can never remember which way that goes)? Basicly try to make the liquid thinner. I don’t know how adding parrafin oil would affect that, but it’s worth a shot?
For this last chain, I did it twice. Once at 3 hours and once at 4 hours.
Someone in the industry told me to put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. That what they have to do with track chains since there are such tight tolerances. He thinks I just need to get my wax hotter and shake it around more and I should be good to go.
Sounds like you need two heated ultrasonic cleaners. One to actually do the cleaning, and one to do the waxing
Is there an ultrasonic cleaner thread yet? What are you guys using?
At least one listed via TR in the main waxing thread.
Thank you Sir!
I’ve been waxing chains with paraffin since the early 90s. Molten speed wax had a couple of easy to obtain extras but is basically the same thing. The truth is, it doesn’t last long no matter how clean you get it. I get the wax pretty hot using a hot pad (just starting to smoke) and it seems to work better.
Someone else in the industry told me that when they wax track chains with very small tolerances they have to get the wax very hot in order for it to penetrate.
Heat the chain up before to loosen the tolerances. You can do that in the oven or leaving in the wax for a while. See if that fixes it.
EDIT: should of read the entire thread. What they said above me.
Dead thread, but new ideas. I just got a Venge Pro with the Force AXS group. I stripped the factory lubed and re-lubed with Rock-n-Roll gold.
Chain sounded like a pepper mill and it’s gotten better, I’m in Indy and know some SRAM guys. They told me the cassette has a coating that takes some miles to break in, I’m finding that it’s still a tad loud and is really easy to cross-chain. Every once in a while I’ll get that nitty-gritty feeling in the chain. We’ll see what another 200-300 miles does for it.
In searching for noisy force chains on goggle I came across your post on here. I too have the same problem. (2020 Venge Pro with SRAM Force eTap AXS) I am just about fed up with the noise that I get from the rear cassette.
So I joined the page here and was wondering if you could give me some answers if you have any?
In all honesty I’m getting to the point where I just want so S***can the whole group set and move in a different direction. Please help me
I did not solve it and ended up moving to DI2.
DI2 is rad though!
I have the Red eTap AXS group (running with it for 3+ months) and don’t have the chain noise (similar sound to my Di2). Perhaps calling SRAM and ask them? Perhaps you may consider replacing your chain with the SRAM Red 12 speed chain (pending SRAM’s response)? Perhaps your LBS can diagnose (if noise is not related to the chain)?
I have been working with my LBS shop to figure out what is going on. They have been in touch with SRAM and have the ball rolling on getting a new chain and cassette through the warranty process. (Fingers crossed)
It is really just a total head scratcher for me because it is really loud in some of the cogs in the back and has a “normal” sound in others.
The 10 was super loud for me.
I bought trek concept tri bike last wk with sram axis etap. 12 speed. Noise was unbearable. They spent 3 days trying to quiet it. Got better but not gone. With so little tolerance on 12 speed one piece cassette I was also worried about down the road noises later. So I returned bike and ordered di2. Although all the reviews online talk about how quiet it is seems like the noise issue is not uncommon. Good luck.
Are others getting the noise on Sram AXS in MTB applications?
I may well be wrong, but the MTB application is very different than the road 12-speed, because it maintained the same basic cog spacing and chain width. It could do this because of how the large cog (50t) overhangs the hub and snuggles up to the spokes.
The road one can’t do this because the largest cog size (33t and such) is unable to hang over like the MTB version. This required a new and narrower chain compared to the MTB 12-speed.
To make room for the 10-tooth cog, you’ll need to use the XDR freehub body, which is widely available on a number of hub brands. XDR is their road specific version of the XD driver that was introduced with the wide-range mountain bike groups years ago, and the difference is that they’re 1.85mm wider. This extra width is necessary to provide the right clearance for the cassette next to the spokes since road cogs aren’t as big and can’t dish like a 50-tooth MTB cog can.
To accommodate all of the gears in the system, they had to make the chain thinner. Which raised concerns about strength. By adding the material back at the top of the plate, as opposed to using the usual figure-eight shape, they gained back any strength that was lost to reducing the chain width. And it’s the same weight as the prior 11-speed chains.
These are the reasons I think there may well be more issues on the road side vs the MTB.
I think the 12 speed seam axs MTB is good. Jonathan and Brandon have it at work and it’s the same eagle chain I believe (?). It’s quiet and they like it.