Slightly different use case, but still relevant. I switched to a road bike with 1x, more specifically a 10–36 cassette mated to a 42-tooth chainring. I used to live near the Japanese mountains, now I am in Austria. The longest continuous climb I did had about 1000 m of elevation in one piece.
On the fast end, I spin out at 64, 65 km/h (120 rpm). On public roads that is plenty fast in my book. I don’t want to end up as an organ donor and there are few places I feel comfortable to go faster than that.
In practice, the gaps feel identical to a 11–32 cassette. SRAM’s 10–44 cassette has larger gaps, but it is still something you will likely get used to. In fact, had a 10–44 cassette and derailleur been available when I bought my (aero road) bike, I would have tried that.
Most of the advice seems to be “get 2x to be on the safe side”, but it is just a matter of getting used to it. IMHO most road bikes have shitty gearing, way too hard on the top end, but not enough climbing gears. You are way more flexible on a 1x to get your gear ratios in the right place. You can simply shift the range by choosing another chainring. On SRAM you can pick anything between 38 and 54 (56?) in 2-tooth increments.
I see a trend towards 1x on road bikes. For fast gravel races the default seems to be a mullet setup and even the pro peloton has started to experiment with it. I reckon once we get 1x13 from SRAM the tide will shift rapidly.
So has manual transmission on vehicles! Just because something has been around for a long time doesn’t mean it’s better and/or more practical today. It certainly doesn’t mean someone should learn to use them. I’m 47 and have never owned a front derailleur or manual transmission and never intend to. Particularly because I come from a MTB background that includes XCO, XCM and Ultras. I’ve never thought at any point, even at mile 100 after 12k of climbing, I wish I had a 2x.
The supposed large cadence jumps people complain about with 1x always seems laughable to me. You roadies are spoiled if you don’t have the exact preferred cadence at every moment . People have been riding and racing for a long time adjusting their cadences, so ”people should know how to use” and be comfortable at different cadences.
There are pros and cons to 1x and 2x, however you’re not limited by either. To suggest otherwise is absurd and That’s just like, your opinion, man. It comes down to preference, as many things in cycling do. So the OP can take assurance that whichever system they choose they can be happy, successful and competitive in any and all of their gravel endeavors.
It sounds like anyone who is vouching for 1x has to mention, “Yeah, I do spin out sometimes,” “Yes, there are bigger jumps in the cassette, but you get used to them,” or “I do have to sacrifice cadence sometimes.”
None of these apply to a 2x system!
If it’s simplicity we want here, I’d recommend ditching your mobile apps, batteries, and DOT fluid and moving over to a single speed with some mechanical brakes!
To each their own, I suppose. As long as we’re out on our bikes, I’m happy.
Nope. 46T chainring, 10-52 cassette. Same top-end as my 2x road bike and better low gear.
Even on flat roads I don’t demand specific cadence from my gearing. I’ve had an 11-25 cassette on the road and it’s a big don’t care on small cadence jumps.
It sounds like anyone who is vouching for 2x has to mention, “Yeah it is more fuss and complexity sometimes,” Yes, it is additional parts to care for and go wrong on your bike, particularly in gravel conditions and mud. Sure it can cause your chain to drop more frequently and limits your tire size, but you get used to that.
None of these apply to 1x system!
If it’s complexity we want here, I’d recommend a 3x drivetrain, which has been around for a long time, so you rodies don’t have to pedal at 92 rpm when your preferred cadence is 93 rpm.
I’ll always have a mechanical, rim brake, tubed tyre bike in the garage for precisely that reason. Stick a bit of lube on the chain, check tyre pressure, put spare tube, levers and mini-pump in the jersey, and off you go. Nothing to charge or bleed.
I’m not saying it’s superior (my two ‘good’ bikes are both electronically shifted and disc brake and objectively better) but sometimes, especially for a short Z2 on a sunny summer’s evening, simplicity does have something to recommend it.
I also live in MN and ride gravel in a more racy way most of the time. Having had both 1x and 2x gravel bikes, here are my thoughts:
I prefer the simplicity (and lower weight) of the 1x but it does have a couple cons to it. My 1x gravel bike came with a 40t chainring (10-44 in back). On fast group rides and races, there are times when I can’t find exactly the right gear for the cadence I’d like to be cruising at in that moment because of the larger gaps. And there have been times where I’ve wanted to pedal hard on downhills or even slight downs where I have felt spun out in the 10. I just ordered a 42t chainring so hopefully that helps this year. Unfortunately though, 42 is the biggest I can put on this bike. Wish I had checked that when I bought it.
If you’re going to use it on road, the big consideration is how big of a chainring can your bike fit and then will the size that works for road for you also work for gravel. Only you can answer that one. 2x is definitely better for going fast, but I got tired of being in races and having my front der not working on my GRX mechanical groupset that had been adjusted by bike shops multiple times.
Not a fair comparison. I own a car with a manual transmission, and a 2x gravel bike. My manual transmission has never dropped a chain
In fairness, the gravel terrain I ride on - long climbs, long descents, or flat - does generally not require a lot of front derailleur shifting, so the 2x isn’t really a noticeable burden. If I rode on more rolling terrain with steep ups and downs, I’d switch to 1x.
The front derailleur was a noticeable burden this year at Unbound. It got very sticky with all the mud, and I had to really take care with every shift. And there’s parts of that course with rolling terrain requiring front derailleur shifting, so was something I frequently had to devote mental energy and attention to. Would’ve preferred a 1x as in my experience with MTB, 1x has been flawless.
I live in Colorado and my road bike setup was 50/34 with an 11-28 cassette. I don’t ride on the road much anymore but this worked well with all the climbing and spirited group rides I used to do. Been getting back into riding and just picked up my first 1x with a 10-44 cassette. I swapped out the chainring for a larger 44 which is very close in top and low end to my road bike set up. I love the simplicity and seems to be very similar to what my road bike setup was. I also haven’t been bothered by the larger gaps.
Full 1x house since 2015. For my tri bike I realized that I just NEVER shifted out of the big ring in a race, I have since done 1 where i regretted this decision but I made it through. For her bike she just never used the big ring, she didn’t like the risk of shifting it, didn’t know when to shift it, and she is terrified of speed so she’s not pedaling downhill anyway. Crockett came 1x, part of why I wanted the version I got (mostly color) but I actually went form the 42 it came with to a 48.
Where we lived until a few months ago there were rolling hills, you are constantly shifting the full range of the cassette, but you never really needed 2 rings up front. Definitely some long steep climbs where we just moved to and maybe I’ll reconsider, but I doubt it. 1x in both road and gravel trim on the Crockett for now, mech 12spd conversion this winter will likely reduce my changes of going back to a 2x.
If anyone was keeping a tally, all my vehicles are manual.
I like the 1x on my gravel bike but I do find myself at times searching for the right gear for the cadence I want. But I mostly ride not particularly smooth gravel on rides with short punchy climbs so there really is no good cadence and if there is it won’t last long. But overall it’s not some huge hindrance
. People have been riding and racing for a long time adjusting their cadences, so ”people should know how to use” and be comfortable at different cadences.
