What bike should I get

Well, if anyone bends over far enough, they will have a rounded back. If your knees hit your chest, you can get shorter cranks, but, for most riders, it doesn’t matter unless you are racing - and even then, it only matters when you’re on the front, off the front or off the back trying to get back on.

It takes a long time to be able to anchor your sit bones and ride in an aero position with power. Practice your riding in the drops and aero position on the trainer during endurance rides it will come.

In the meantime, just know that it seriously doesn’t matter.

Great post! and interesting comment.

Although it’s not an apple to apples comparison, I rode a 58cm Trek 5900 (the Postal bike from the 2000 era) and 4 years ago (2015) bought a 54cm Specialized Roubaix. I knew the 58 was too big (back then they fit you on the largest bike you could stand over), but wondered whether I should be on a 56 or 54 now. The Roubaix has been and is a great bike (!) but my strength, bike handling skills and flexibility have improved tremendously over the past 4 years such that I am going to “upgrade” to a Tarmac S-Works. I’m planning to have the bike fitter at the LBS take a look at me on the 54 (and perhaps 56) but, given your comment, I’m curious as to your opinion as to anything I should be considering/asking during the fitting to better understand this tradeoff. My guess is that they could make either frame work for me via stem length and seat position. Thanks.

If you can find it (and you are not opposed to buying mainstream), squeeze out a few more bucks (sell something). . . get Trek Emonda SLR8 Disc. I think on sale for last years model might be $6000. very worth it. Otherwise the Emonda SLR 6 disc should fit right in your budget. Have fun shopping!

@bobmac Here’s something that might help: 2 points on arm position in cycling – #1 |

Personally, I think bike fit is mostly voodoo. As a recreational rider, if you spend a lot of time in the pack cruising along and then punch the climbs, moving your bars lower doesn’t matter. In fact, if you’re riding for fitness, make your bars higher so you get a better workout by not being able to hide in the draft! For fitness watts/kg is really important.

If you want to be faster on the front, off the front or catching back on, your watts/CdA is really important and making your frontal aero profile as small as possible is really important. Smaller frame and lower body position can sometimes help you achieve that.

Maybe this will drive it home, Ridley bikes have the Helium as their lightweight, climbing bike, the Fenix for cobbles/endurance and the Noah Aero - all aimed at three different riding types. The geometry of all three frames are identical. The difference between the bikes is the tube shape and carbon layup “for comfort” or stiffness. When Andre Greipel, standing at 6’ 1/2” was riding Ridley bikes for team Lotto Sodal, he rode a size small (51 cm frame) in all three versions depending on the race. Further, he rode 40 cm bars and a 140mm -17 stem.

He is a world class sprinter. I am not.

I’m 6’ and I used to ride and race on a 58cm Ridley Fenix. I started riding and racing in the late 80s, so, I’ve got an old school view of bike fit. The bars were higher than I wanted so I eventually wound up with a 100mm -25 stem, It looked crazy, but, it made my reach exactly where I wanted it and I won several races on it with that set up.

My team mostly moved over to Specialized a couple years ago so I went with a 58cm Allez Sprint X1 w/ a 100mm -12 stem because this put my bars in exactly the same position as the Fenix with a crazy stem. I could just as easily ride a 56 Sprint w/ a 120mm -6 stem, but, I really like the Zipp SL Sprint stem and it only comes in a -12. I also went from 44cm to 38cm bars.

I read somewhere that 2cm narrower bars is equal aero reduction as removing 2cm stack height. I can’t remember where I read it, but, it makes sense.

My team moved over to 3T last year, so, If I get a Strada, it will likely be a 58cm w/ an ENVE 110mm stem because the reach is 10mm shorter on the Strada. ENVE makes a really cool stem system that comes with a shim that lets you do several different angles with the same stem. I can play with the shim until I find the height that works best because the Strada’s stack is 20mm lower.

That’s a long winded way of saying that if you don’t know exactly what size frame and stack you want and why you want that size and stack, just ride whatever you have until you can pinpoint something that makes you say, I wish X was different about my setup. If you can’t achieve that with a simple stem swap, then you need to buy a different frame.


My man!

I’ve been through several bikes since, but I still have held on to my old Ridley Damocles because Ioved it so much.


My trainer bike has a slammed stem, 30mm shorter than my road and CX bikes and I do workouts in the drops and all bikes are on a 170mm crank. I wonder if I need to get 165s?

It matters because if you don’t have the flexibility, you shouldn’t be racing because if you ever get a chance to be on the front, you won’t be prepared for it. Are there biological/genetic limits to how a pelvis sits on a saddle or is this something everyone could do if we apply ourselves?

Thanks very much for the full post!!! :+1: I read it a few times to fully digest and think about my setup, what I’m looking for, etc. Will be very useful.

Go for the Canyon UltimateCF disc 9.0 SL, bit more, but a great bike that looks great as well. Got fantastic wheels as well.


You’re fine. It doesn’t matter. Register for a Cat 5 Crit or road race and have fun! Don’t make your goal winning - just see if you can finish with the pack and make it to Cat 4 without literally dying.

I’m biased to the Canyon Aeroad … considering mine just arrived today. Simply put, this bike is awesome, and its a match to your budget.

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That’s a sweet team, I loooove the way the strada looks. I’m jealous!

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