The Bike Fitting Mega-Thread

Turns out my left foot is 1cm shorter than my right one.

Am i right to assume i have to move my right cleat forward a bit? Both cleats are set all the way back at the moment.

Any other positional changes which usually go hand in hand with a subsatial foot length discrepency?

  1. Assuming you set your foot in the heal cup and cinch the shoe, the ball of the foot on the short one will be more rearward biased.
  2. As such, I tend to like placing the cleat further back on the short foot.

I don’t typically change other setup unless there is a pending issue that may be assisted by more changes. So, for your setup, if you already have both cleats fully rearward, I’d only move the long foot one forward. Might start with half the difference, so 5mm, and see how it feels.

If the bike setup is set for the shorter leg, wouldn’t you want to move the longer leg’s cleat back on the shoe, bringing that foot further away since it is longer?

Not been able to do any longer rides than 40 miles but had the chance this weekend to go out and bash out 50 miles - the neck pain came in towards the end of the ride. I think this is just getting used to the position of the new bike and i’m training on an old MTB on the trainer and also riding my gravel bike on family rides. Did you find that even with the saddle tilt you still needed some time to adapt or was it an overnight thing?
I am continuing to work on core and flexibility (also currently working at home in front of a laptop during lock down - not at the same time obviously). I’m sure some of this is helping…and will continue to help.
may play with slight saddle adjustment later on next few rides…

I was perhaps overly optimistic. I must admit I haven’t sorted it out completely yet. It is much better now but I still feel slightly sore neck towards the end of some rides. However, gone are any problems off the bike. The home office and work on notebook is nearing its end so that might help as well.

One more tweak I did was leveling my bars. I had my bars slightly down and was leaning too much on my hoods. Now I am more supported when holding the hoods. I’ll play with spacers under the stem, saddle fore/aft position and stem length until I figure it out!

My new bike is almost built and will have narrower bars (38 cm instead of 42). I will see if that helps. Until then I angled my levers inwards on my current bike. If the narrower bars are better I’ll get them for my current bike as well.

Don’t give up! I don’t work on my strength or flexibility because of this. I did strength training for the last three years 3 times a week and will get back to it as soon as I can. But it has made me much better athlete. I would do it even if it didn’t help with the neck.

Thanks for the additional information. I’ve just re assessed my bike and noticed saddle still a bit nose down. So I’ve levelled it off some more and see what effect that has.
Funny how a bike feels very comfy until a certain mileage and then, bam! It doesn’t. :grin:
Oh well.

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Hi – I am stuck in bike fit RETUL purgatory. My LBS RETUL sanctioned fitter tells me my current bike (a size 56cm 2009 Cervelo S3) is all wrong for my geometry (and poor hip flexibility, etc). The stem he put on my S3 is too embarrassing to show outside. Long story short, he says I should consider a size 56cm endurance bike.

I am looking at the Canyon Endurance CF SLX 8.0. Canyon sizes S, M, L. I called Canyon. They said for the Endurance, Medium is 55.3 and Large is 56.8.

Both the Medium and Large Canyon offer improved stack and reach compared to my Cervelo S3.

Stack and Reach #s:

Current Cervelo S3 Stack = 564, Reach = 394
Canyon Endurance (Medium) Stack = 578 (+14), Reach = 382 (-12)
Canyon Endurance (Large) Stack = 604 (40), Reach = 389 (-5)

So which Canyon size offers the best start point from a fit perspective?

Help/Thanks

I forgot an important detail. Due to COVID, my LBS RETUL fitter is not available. And, nobody knows when they will be allowed to start fitting again.

Would be helpful to know the stem (length and angle) your fitter selected to place on the S3, so we can estimate that final bar position relative to the 2 sizes of Canyon’s being considered.

Thanks…

The stem length is 70mm, the angle is 35 degrees = ugly factor X10. We kept the same bar (no rise or reduced reach). The Canyon comes with an integrated stem/bar. I plan to swap this out for a separate stem and bar. Specialized offers bars with a reduced reach and a 15 or 25mm rise. I will do anything to avoid the 35 degree stem.

Let me add one additional parameter. I used Tableau to map the stack and reach of all my options relative to the my S3. On paper, the 56cm Roubaix Pro offers the best improvement. It has a Stack of 605 (+41) and a Reach of 384 (-10); and the handlebar has a 75mm reach and 15mm rise. I am still curious as to which Canyon to consider. The Canyons offer the best value, but for a little more budget the Roubaix might offer the best start point for a fit?

I’ve been struggling with saddle sores and calf cramps on the right side. I get saddle sores/infected hair follicles on the right side around the sitbone area. Glute activation before workouts has helped alot with the cramps, but it’s still usually the first muscle to give.

I’m probably getting bikefit after I find shoes I like. I’m looking at the Lake CX 238 wide atm.

I did last workout with 5 mm lower saddle position but it just made my calf and quads burn more.

Any tips what should I try before bikefit? My saddle height is 816 mm, setback is 115 mm and saddle is Specialized Power (155 mm).



It does look like you’re tilting a little to the left. Perhaps you either have a shorter leg och a strength discrepancy which makes you drop the left hip.

It usually takes a while to get used to a lower saddle, so I would try to lower it a few mm. and then unless it hurts etc, ride for a week or two, and see how it feels.

Usually one tips to one side like that when the saddle is too high, so I would start there…

Thanks. I moved saddle forward 5 mm (kept the same saddle height) and everything felt and looked quite a bit better. If I keep having issues I will try different seat heights again. I also received G8 2620 insoles today and I’m hoping they could help with calf cramps.

you could also try playing about with this - once you get the frame measurements the same as quoted can give you some insights as you can play about with various adjustments and see what effect it has:

http://www.bikegeo.net/

oh and i also bought a Canyon Endurace - love it. :slight_smile:

Hello,

I’m looking to get some second opinions two different fitting sessions performed by two different persons. First some background on me. I started cycling about 4.5 years ago. Currently I have a FTP of 290 (roughly 3.4 W/kg). I’d class myself as reasonably flexible and I have decent enough core strenght. I’m about 187 cm tall and ride 172.5 cranks. My bike is a Bianchi 928 HoC in size 59.

Two years ago I had a fit done. I asked for a competition oriented fit and the mechanic changed a few things on my bike over what I had previously. Raised the saddle a bit and moved it more forward. Nothing was done to my handlebars or stem. He said he was of the opinion that shorter cranks was beneficial and would advice me against going to 175 cranks. This fit has been working pretty well for me. I can hold the drops for about 40 minutes before my neck starts to tire. Occasionally when riding the hoods outside for this long my hands goes numb. I can do three hour rides with only a slight discomfort and stiffness in back of my shoulders. I can get lower in the drops than in the attached image, it was hard to balance against the wall and keep the correct positions.

Right, so two years passed and I have started thinking about getting a new bike. I often felt that the frame is a bit large for me. I base this on when cornering I feel like I am riding on top of the bike rather than integrated with the machine. Other than that I have nothing to back up my feeling. Since my first fit I have moved so going back to the same person is not really practical, so I made arrangement with a local guy which came recommended.

When met him I said that I get some discomfort when riding in the hoods for over 40 minutes or longer rides he countered with a question why I am riding in the hoods. He said that at the speed I am going it does not matter if I am in the hoods or in the drops so I might as well be riding the more comfortable position. This does not make much sense to me to be honest. Secondly he said the it looks like the drop between saddle height and handlebar is to large for me and that would be the reason any discomfort I experience. He then gave recommendations for a sport oriented fit while also providing a chart for what he would suggest as a compeition fit if I still wanted to go that direction. Additionally he suggested that I should be looking for 175 cranks on my next bike. As you can see the second competition fit is not finalized as he only pulled my numbers over from the sport profile which we based the session on in order to get me a draft to compare my previous fit to.

Looking at the chart from the first fit and comparing it to the chart of the second fit (both sport and competition) they clearly differ in some parts, they do agree on saddle height though. I feel that if I were to follow sport fit from the second session I would be limitied to endurance bikes. This seems strange to me as I thought I was more flexible and had the overall strenght to support a more race oriented fit. So here I am looking a second opinion on the two fits compared to each other. Furthermore I would greatly appreciate any advice based on the two fits regarding suitable frame types and sizes for me. If any piece of information is missing I will try to provide it, just let me know.

I think you may need to move the saddle back, actually. Your hip point is pretty far in front of the seattube line if you were to draw one from the BB up to the saddle. Moving back could help with stability in the hips and saddle because you’re currently perched on the nose it looks like, and that certainly would cause discomfort where you’re feeling it. If you have too much pressure in the hands, it can relieve that as well. Keep in mind if you do move it back that you’ll need to also reduce the saddle height to compensate for the pedal reach. I had this similar problem and fiddling with the saddle moving back and down helped a lot for me.

What sort of adjustments should be made when changing crank length? I’ve recently gone from 170mm to 165mm.

I’ve had a bike fit, and am very comfortable with my current fit. Is it a simple case where I add/subtract 5mm from the existing measurements, or would it require a re-fit?

My bike is still sitting at my LBS (with a brand spanking new power meter :grinning:) and I’m keen to explore outdoor training with power, and also how the shorter cranks feel.

With a shorter crank, you need to increase the saddle height by the same difference (considering all else being equal, and assuming that you were happy with the prior fit).

  • In your case, increase saddle height 5mm.

Note: the consequences of raising the saddle only:

  • It shifts the saddle rearward (about 2-3mm, depending on seat tube/post angle), not just upward.
    • This increases saddle to handle bar reach (about 2-3mm).
    • This increases saddle to handle bar drop (about 4mm).
    • This increases saddle setback from the bottom bracket (about 2-3mm).
  • These combined can lead to lower relative position (hips to shoulders) because the bars are effectively lower when compared to the saddle that is now higher.
  • That and the increased reach can lead to a tighter hip angle at the top of the stroke, but it should be largely negated from the shorter crank.
  • As with much of fitting, a single dimension change usually impacts multiple other measurements, and the consequences of that may lead to additional changes.

Any and all of those may be items to address with other adjustments. Which to change and by how much varies and is highly dependent on you, along with the reason you changed your crank length in the first place.

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Thanks for the detailed response, Chad!

My fitter had recommend a shorter crank to “further open up hip angles during full knee flexion”. I’m sure he had explained it to me at the time - but I’ve since forgotten :rofl:. I’m trying to focus on glute activation at the moment, and as I understand it, this is influenced by how I’m sitting on the bike. Somehow I’ve gotten it into my head that a shorter crank length could help with this. Do you reckon this is true?