Saris H3 Discussion/Issues

Thanks Chad. For those wondering, it is very easy to change between a traditional QR and a 142mm Thru Axle. The H3 comes with changeable end caps that you can change without removing the cassette.

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Yup, pretty easy. I should have mentioned that I think adding a bit of grease to the threads of the axle cups is a good idea. They come totally dry, and some people have mentioned some noises from the trainer were resolved with greasing the threads lightly.

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Well i had a question about cassettes with the H3 but after scrolling this thread I am having 2nd thoughts on even purchasing it with all the problems people have had with the noises. Worth it to just shell out the $300 more for the Wahoo?

Anyways my question is if there is a rhyme or reason to choosing a cassette? I just bought a bike with Ultegra cassette but will it matter if i buy Shimano 105 cassette for H3? Or is it better go with what you have on your bike?

Thank You

Honestly, each brand has shown issues with nearly every model of their trainers. You will find examples of problems and people who love the same model. It’s a bit of a gamble with any brand or model right now.

There’s not much point in spending money on an upper tier cassette for the trainer. At best, some people say the shifting is a touch better or the sound quieter. Otherwise, keep it cheap.

I tend to suggest matching the cassette tooth count so you have a similar gear range to the outside bike. But it’s possible to choose a different one depending on your goals for the trainer.

Ok cool thanks. Ya i saw that 2018 wahoo link but i guess i assumed that was for that years model and maybe there was a newer version that fixed all the 2018 model issue but i wasn’t sure.

I will just give the H3 a go and get the cheaper cassette. Thanks for the tooth count suggestion ! wouldn’t have known about that. I’m not sure yet what my goals are haha. I just want to get my body moving! Inside and outside!

Yeah honestly seems like wahoo has more issues than hammer just from what I’ve seen on here.

My h3 has been great for a few months now.

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They claim to be on top of the old 2018 design related problems. They might have it licked, but we saw two V5 2020 models show up “broken”, so who knows? Those are not settled in any way, but showed sounds you don’t want from a brand new trainer. I am hoping they have it fixed, because I’d like to upgrade from my 2017 Kickr at some point.

I’ve been able to spin lightly for about 30 minutes or so on the trainer since the repair, and fingers crossed, the sound hasn’t come back. Granted I’ve only been able to push 100ish watts since the crash, and haven’t even come close to my previous FTP, so i’m not sure if the trainer has been able to fully warm up.

I’ll post again if the issue rears its ugly head again.

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Hey all,

I picked up a H3 recently and I am having issues. This is my first time using “erg” and “power match”. Hoped you could help identify the issue.

The problem is a lag of sometimes minutes before the resistance changes. Both PM and H3 were updated and I completed a spin down on the Saris app week ago.

Thanks in advance!

I suggest contacting support@trainerroad.com so they can review the logs.

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Between my wife and I we’ve had 2 H1’s, 1 H2, and 1 H3 and planning to buy another H3 before snow flys. The H3’s reduced noise is a HUGE upgrade in my eyes. The only issues we’ve had with any of these is intermittent disconnects which my wife has been experiencing on the H3 recently but it appears there were 2 firmware updates available which I installed yesterday so hopefully that issue is resolved. Highly recommend the H3 to those looking and want to support an American product.

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Wondering if anyone has had any luck using the Kinetic Traxle as a thru axle on the trainer. I know GPLama used the Wahoo adapters but I didn’t feel like shelling out $100 (CAD) for 3 thru axles when I know I need a M12x1 on a CAAD13.

I was able to thread in the Traxle with a bit of force but its much longer than the stock Cannondale thru axle and looks a bit funny.

Feels like it should be alright but I’m looking for any confirmation that I’m not going to screw anything up.

Thanks for this. This explains a lot. A friend of mine bought his H3 a couple of weeks before mine. We used the same store in the uk but his stamp on the box was from a batch in November, mine was March. He had the knocking sound, I didnt. We had heard that the knocking was due to a screw coming loose in transit… it must be this screw - which I agree is a pathetic little screw. It’s good to know this is the reason for the knocking and not something more sinister.

hey there. sorry, if that’s been asked before. I tried to search the thread but no match.

I have a H3 and would like to train on my mtb this winter. The mtb has a 12 speed eagle casette, the H3 has a shimano freehub body. Am I right in my assumption that I can just purchase a NX casette, which uses the shimano freehub body, and fit the larger spacers (boost) on the h3 and mount my mtb (if it fits, has enough clearance for the brake caliper)?

Yes, or buy the xD driver for the trainer and use your existing cassette on it as well.

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ty

I have a 10 speed 105 cassette on my gen 1 hammer and I use it with all my bikes. I just shift until I find a gear somewhere in the middle of the cassette that doesn’t make noise. I only do erg mode so once I find a quiet gear it just stays there. I just put my 12 speed Shimano xt MTB on it and works great with the 10 speed cassette.

Ron

Update on the clunking issue. The sound came back during my training session this morning. I have an email out to their support to get this resolved. I’ll update again when I hear back.

are you using your 12spd chain as well on those 10spd chainrings?

Correct, 10 speed cassette on the trainer and 12 speed chain on the bike. Just have to be mindful and keep the chain somewhere in the middle of the cassette. I can find a spot where it’s smooth and not clicking or trying to jump sprockets.

Note: ERG only when doing it this way. If you want to use resistance mode and shift gears for power changes, you’ll need to use the right cassette for your drive train. YMMV.

Ron