I did that with performance rotors on my wife’s car, and didn’t realize until after I put the calibers and wheels back on.
I’m not the best at taking pictures, here’s my best attempt. From what I can see, there is tonnes room everywhere
I rode GP4000s for years before I realized they were directional. I think I read though that it makes no difference in usage. It’s hard to imagine how it could.
I also seem to recall that the original GP4000s didn’t even have the arrows. Maybe they added them to the GP4000IIS?
Awesome. Nice socks as well!
Thanks for the quick response!
Any chance you can also take one from below (bottom bracket perspective)? So the same plane as the sock photo, but then taken from the bottom direction
It is the space between the chainstays I am most concerned about.
Voila! I think this is the right angle.
Also, for those with carbon wheels, do you keep them on when riding on a trainer (I have a Saris H3). I’d like to sell my old wheelset to help pay for these so that would leave me with the WR65 as a do it all wheelset.
if it is that much a concern one can get a cheap front only off EBay or Amazon or ask around the LBS if they have an orphan from someone killing a rear wheel like I did.
I am fortunate to have an old wheel leftover from a set (the rear rim split near the spoke holes) to use not sure it makes a difference over all but was always taught before a trainer ride to spin the wheel a quarter turn or so to keep things even, sometimes I do sometimes I don’t.
Ty. So spacious!
I had to go and double check you actually said they are 32s
I’m either going this wheelset or the AR55. What were your considerations?
I was between the WR65 and AR56. In the end I went with the wider wheelset because I knew I would ride 28mm tires and wanted to follow the 105 rule as much as possible. I also wanted a nice deep wheelset.
What really convinced me was listening to new and old podcasts by Josh Poertner.
Edit: Just to add to that. It seems like the second you deviate from a perfectly smooth road, wider tires and therefore wider rims make more and more sense.
I just watched the latest NorCal video about their recommendations for a $4k race bike. One of the upgrades suggested was Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR road wheels ($1300) because they include two years of crash warranty replacement and large discounts after two years. I had been considering Light Bike Wheels R55 with a similar rim depth but around $1100.
I hadn’t considered the Bontragers and while they are a bit more than I want to spend, $200 “insurance” versus replacing a wheel outright is kind of intriguing. Since I’ve never owned carbon wheels I have no perspective on the risks of damaging / breaking them. Thoughts? Thanks!!
While I think the crash replacement is a nice bonus I wouldn’t solely base my purchase on that.
As a general rule, if you are racing, don’t buy/race anything you can’t afford to replace. While a crash warranty can help you in the short term should bad luck befall you, in 3 years when the warranty runs out you’re on the hook anyway.
If you aren’t planning on racing all the above is even less of a consideration.
Agree with the other response. I’ve broken 2 wheels rolled a tub and took a massive hit to a front rim which caused the braking surface to delaminate. In both cases I had them repaired for little or no money to see out the season - but they didn’t last much longer.
Nice thing about the light bike wheels you can order a replacement rim and have it built up anywhere.
i’m happy with my Prime RR-50 V3 carbon - i think they’re about 1.5kg for the pair and cost me under 600euro
i’m not racing or competing with anyone but myself and they do me just fine.
These are good. Picked some WR45 last year and I’m still very happy about em
For us non racing recreational cycling types on UK roads where there are currently loads of pot holes would people still recommend carbon rims over say the 32mm alloy ones that DT swiss do?
I have a friend who races and basically his take is the roads are pretty harsh so for general riding he’d stick with alloy unless racing.
Just wondered what the thoughts were as I had a quote from light bicycle but never took them up on it…
Secretly I still want a set but the justification is a little too intangible. To get it past the boss if she spots them…
I’m looking at getting a pair of Bontrager Aeolus pro/elite 50mm, they have a lifetime warranty for the first owner and heavily reduced repair price in case of crashing. Hunt also has a decent warranty that can be expanded.
While I’m not riding terrible roads here in Sweden, I do like the increased security of knowing my wheels wont cost a fortune by my standards to replace if they brake.
@emilberge thanks for recommendation and whilst I can see they and others have a good warranty they’re usually not on budget sets - though your budget will be different to mine and everyone elses.
Curious how those fare in cross winds. Wanting to get WR50 and sell my current Roval CL 32s but wondering if I should do WR45 in the front instead. I’m a bit lighter at around 145 lbs / 65 KG.
I have no reference to compare, these are my first deeper wheels. I have no problems with the crosswind. I have to pay dear attention to sudden wind gusts, coming downhill with high speed, but that’s physics. I’m on a heavier side of the population (85kg)
Going tubeless with no holes in the rim was a ver good idea for me. I also asked for the small drainage hole in the rim just in case
78-80kg here, have somewhere around 12,000 km on my LB AR56 wheels. I’ve (accidently) hit pot holes three times hard enough to twist my handlebars in the stem (despite carbon paste and correct torque), where each time I thought for sure the front wheel must have suffered, but nope. Then the usual stretches of crappy roads and hopping down curbs. Wheels as true as the day I got them. Based on past experience with alloy rims, I would actually say I trust the carbon rims more than the alloy ones, but that might not be entirely fair, because my alloy rims were always for rim brakes, and these are for disc. Still, I have zero worries at this point that a decent carbon rim can take a licking and keep on ticking.