# Cyclocross bike size **URL:** \ **Category:** Equipment\ **Tags:** bike\ **Created:** [December 9, 2021, 4:33pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261 "2021-12-09T16:33:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![GlassGears](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/glassgears/32/74444_2.png) [@GlassGears](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/GlassGears)\ **Post date:** [December 9, 2021, 4:33pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/1 "2021-12-09T16:33:11Z")
Looking to upgrade my current cross bike - it’s about 10 years old and would be great to have things like disc brakes and carbon over aluminum for some better comfort. Size-wise I am in between 54 and 56 (am 5’10" or so 155 lb). Currently I am on more of a 54 which feels very responsive, but I do get some toe rub on my front wheel which has caused some issues in races. I’ve had 56 before, and it just felt a little big (in particular with stand-over height), but didn’t have my foot hitting my front wheel (that a recall, it was \> 10 years ago) when doing up-hill hard turns. According to the sizing of the bike I am looking at, the “suggested” size is 56, but just barely. Is there any cyclocross wisdom that says it’s better to be on a smaller or larger frame for racing? I am thinking of getting the smaller size but maybe using 170 cranks to minimize toe rub so I get to keep a more agile feel overall but minimize the toe rub that is getting increasingly annoying. Any thoughts? TIA ---
**Author:** ![splash](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ac8455/32.png) [@splash](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/splash)\ **Post date:** [December 9, 2021, 6:43pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/2 "2021-12-09T18:43:22Z")
I’d go for the smaller frame for a shorter wheelbase and better cornering. But check the geometry first. Toe overlap on a cross bike sounds a bit weird, but might also have to do with the head angle and “front centre” length. See if you can compare that to your current bike. Dunno about shorter cranks, I like having more torque, but seems very individual. ---
**Author:** ![Power13](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/power13/32/92171_2.png) [@Power13](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/Power13)\ **Post date:** [December 9, 2021, 8:01pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/3 "2021-12-09T20:01:35Z")
Most CX bikes have gotten longer front ends over the last 10 years…that alone may eliminate your toe overlap issue. If you can find the Stack & Reach numbers for your current bike, I would compare them against some of the newer bikes and see how they have changed. I am assuming based on your post that this would eb for actual CX riding / racing and not gravel? ---
**Author:** ![rkoswald](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/rkoswald/32/28273_2.png) [@rkoswald](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/rkoswald)\ **Post date:** [December 9, 2021, 8:26pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/4 "2021-12-09T20:26:56Z")
While I don’t have a cross bike, my road bike is 10 years old and geometry has change a lot in the last decade. It’s almost not even fair to compare today’s geometry to those from that long ago. My 2010 “56” measures closer to a 58 or 59 in today’s standards. The website below is very useful for comparing geometries of multiple bikes, but definitely do a test ride. > **[Geometry Geeks](https://geometrygeeks.bike/)** > > The world's biggest open geometry database. Find bikes by name or numbers. Easily compare bike geometry side-by-side. ---
**Author:** ![RecoveryRide](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/recoveryride/32/53516_2.png) [@RecoveryRide](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/RecoveryRide)\ **Post date:** [December 9, 2021, 9:04pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/5 "2021-12-09T21:04:44Z")
As someone who’s been a bit down the sizing/bike-fit rabbit hole lately, I must say I keep coming back to Dave Moulton’s now quite old advice: if your limbs are broadly proportionate in length to your height, go with 2/3 of your inseam, and see if the manufacturer’s height/size recommendations align with that. If it does, that’s your frame size. If it doesn’t, it’s trickier, especially if you have long legs and a short body, but remember it’s generally easier to make a bike fit bigger than it is smaller. For CX, though, I’d be inclined to size up to minimise toe overlap and for easier shouldering. ---
**Author:** ![GlassGears](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/glassgears/32/74444_2.png) [@GlassGears](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/GlassGears)\ **Post date:** [December 10, 2021, 2:49am UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/6 "2021-12-10T02:49:33Z")
Hadn’t heard of the 2/3rd rule, but I come out at a solid 55 🙂 LOL. ---
**Author:** ![GlassGears](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/glassgears/32/74444_2.png) [@GlassGears](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/GlassGears)\ **Post date:** [December 10, 2021, 2:51am UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/7 "2021-12-10T02:51:30Z")
Thanks everyone for your responses. I checked out some of the geometry and yes - the current head tube angles are more slack, fork rake higher, and wheelbase a little bit longer than what I have now. So - I have some test riding to do, it looks like! ---
**Author:** ![GlassGears](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/trainerroad/forum/user_avatar/www.trainerroad.com/glassgears/32/74444_2.png) [@GlassGears](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/u/GlassGears)\ **Post date:** [March 27, 2022, 9:17pm UTC](https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/cyclocross-bike-size/66261/8 "2022-03-27T21:17:30Z")
As followup - I ended up getting the slightly smaller size. Talked to the frame designer who said that the cross bikes these days are a longer wheelbase in general and a little more “gravelly” then they used to be. Went with that (a size MD) and true to his word, it’s a little bit longer and no issues with toe rub and overall good feel. Not really planning on gravel rides, but got the XPLR rear derailleur - so I upgraded from an aluminum frame, cantilever brakes, and 2x (12-28 - never adjusted the B-screw to work with my 12-33 cassette) drive train to a carbon disc brake AXS 12 speed 1x with 40t front and 10-44 in back. Might be able to ride up some of the hills in cross this year 🙂 Should be fun! Thanks all for the replies.