That video is much more useful.
Most riders are able to tolerate more drop than more reach. If you’re really prioritizing aero first you’ll struggle to get in your ideal position with such a tall head tube. Essentially, you’re attempting to shoehorn yourself into an aggressive aero road position on an endurance bike.
The struggle is a short top tube, and tall head tube. Currently, you’re running your seat far back on the rails. It seems you’re doing this to correct your reach, which is/was too short, because the frame is too small for an aero position, off the shelf.
Really, your only solution on that bike is more drop or more reach. Forgetting the biomechanical implications. Which could be better or worse… usually worse.
Currently, your reach looks more or less fine. You could definitely handle more drop with the required time to get used to it.
The issue is, because of the bikes style and size, your changes are only getting you halfway there. If you fit the exact same set-up to an aggressive race bike, your front end would be 2/3cm lower and your saddle would be closer to the bottom bracket.
Basically, you’re attempting to rotate forward just like a TT bike.
TT bikes have steeper seat tubes, with saddles slammed forward to open the hip angle, while the body is slammed forward.
Current solution. Fit a more aggressive stem. Same length -25 degree. That’ll get you lower, no more stretched out. Ritchey make some great -25 stems.
After that, you’ll simply have to get a more aggressive frame.
Have a look at the calculator in the description box of this video to check your drop. I think it’s 2cm lower, with a -25 stem. Remember, without the saddle going forward, you may run into hip angle issues. The only real solution for that, is a new frame.