A Wild idea for Favero Assioma pedals [MTB SPD Hack]

Thanks so much… I’ll just get the 540s unless there is a better one recommended for gravel racing type use?

I’ve been using some M-8000s as they were handy and worked. The engagement is pretty uniform across the Shimano mtb pedal line.

Do you know / think the M8120 and ES600 are compatible? And if so, would you recommend one over the other for 200km gravel race use? I picked up some M540s but just thinking the larger platform would be better.

Somewhere in this thread there was a pic of someone who used the ES600s and they added some o-rings to cover a bit of exposed area on the spindle. I’ve converted some PD-A600s. Prefer the dual side for fast entry over the single side. The A600s were a nice light conversion though.

The 8120s may not work. Compare these two exploded views and p/ns


Just went through the thread to figure out what Shimano Pedals are compatible with Assioma DUO-Shi. I think I will go with the PD-M8100, PD-M540 or PD-M520 (520 were mentioned most often).

Here an overview for all current Shimano Offroad and Explorer pedals

PS: I might have missed something, so no guarantee. Happy to update if I made an mistake


Today I received my Favero Assioma Duo-Shi axels.

SPD Pedals
I had two different pedals: PD-M8100 and PD-M520.
I tried both, not sure how others were able to use PD-M8100, it didnt seem to fit without breaking anything.

Here the three different axels in comparison (for reference)

  • Left: Favero Assioma Duo-Shi
  • Middle: PD-M8100
  • Left: PD-M520

In comparison the axels of “official” supported pedals

Installation was easy and straight forward. Keep in mind, you need the Shimano Tl-PD40 adapter for PD-M520. For PD-M8100 a 17 wrench was enough. Both pedals are very tied, if you have any option to fixate the pedals (e.g. screw clamp, jaw vice), it will help a lot.


  • Q-Factor: Still, I have to test it longer over the next days. The first couple of km felt fine, might have to adjust cleat position / saddle position.
  • Shoes: My Lake MX-238 shoes fit with no issues and have enough clearing

Open Questions

  1. When I installed the pedals on the Assioma Duo-Shi, I didn’t add any additional grease onto the axle, is this an issue?
  2. How would you store the original PD-M520 axels?
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I know there has been a lot of concern about real MTB riding and pedal strikes yet people have seemed to smash them without issue. I haven’t read of a single issue where someone has broken the Pod. I’m looking for a pedal based power meter and was initially considering the Rally XC100 until I found out about the stack height and read about a few people breaking the pedal body. The Assioma Hack seems to be the better option.

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I’ve ridden converted Assiomas with xpedo bodies approx 15k km off-road with no issues.

I have boots on the crank arms - I use these ones https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FK727H4 - of my grx crankset. The boots are a bit longer than the pods, meaning that I hit them in most cases if and when I should strike rocks etc.

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Downer. Not a single proper flat pedal there.

Not sure if it’s rock strike related, but my battery is absolutely cooked. It lasts maybe a ride then drains itself, have a ticket in with Favero and they’re looking into it.

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Dang. Does the pod look like it’s taken some abuse?

Not too bad. Some scuffs but the area where the battery is largely clean They’re offering me a replacement spindle at 33% off since my pedals are out of warranty as of 2/2022.



Same. I have been riding my converted pedals for a few years now and the left pedal is no longer hold in a charge. I can get one ride in but that’s it.

Why will the PD-T8000 not work?
The axle looks pretty much the same like the PD-M8100.

Hi SpeedyChix, when you put the Shimano PD A600’s on the Shi Duos, did you need the 3 rubber washers?

I didn’t use any washers.

Great, sounds like a very simple easy conversion, thank you.

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I’ve read a lot of confusing statements on this so I thought I’d ask the question again, but will Assioma DUO-Shi fit with Shimano PD-ES600 SPD pedals without any hack or additional pieces ? I’m aware that there might be a bigger offset (4mm?) than the stock thread, but there doesn’t seem to be a definitive agreement about this online.

Same on one of mine, but only after several 1.000 km, plus it’s 5 years old now.